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Everything posted by SteveG

  1. First you complete the NOVA import process on HMRC site. It’s free for importing in from EU, but you still need to go through the NOVA process. Then you need to get it MOT’d. Once this is complete you can send off original Netherlands Registration doc, Nova docs and MOT docs with correct form to DVLA for an import registration (You can order them here https://www.gov.uk/dvlaforms ) . As long as NL docs have confirmation of year of manufacture you’ll be ok, if they don’t you’ll need to get a heritage certificate from Gaydon to confirm year of manufacture, so DVLA can apply correct road tax
  2. Or have them do a good job, get them back in one piece, and f**k the source and cost of their kit.
  3. I bought a DTW1002Z back in May, very good so far, only had a couple of nuts where it struggled initially. Much better value than Milwaukee equivalents. The usual high penalty for these type of impact wrenches is the weight and length. So I still use my compact Milwaukee 1/2” for most easy things.
  4. Given that it changed after an ignition cycle, it’s highly likely that it’s sensor related. Just which one/s? 😉
  5. I was being careful not to scratch the bores, but a common figure that kept coming up was 93.89mm cheers Steve
  6. ‘Thanks for the responses 👍 A few pics of the stripped block... The cleaning has started... This was after two 20 minutes sessions in the ultrasonic cleaner and a toothbrush.
  7. Thanks Jon I read that if you replace the cam with a new different one, you should get the block line honed. But I’ve no idea what that is. 😉 i forgot to ask, what about the timing chain and gear set. Should you renew all of these too? cheers, Steve
  8. So today I just stripped down the 4.6 v8 to rebuild. A few questions.... After reading up, I assume I get a machine shop to check the block for any issues and re-line the crankshaft and camshaft? I assume they’ll need the crankshaft and camshaft to do this. I’ll also get them to fit new core plugs and oil gallery plugs. Is there anything else? For the Camshaft, there are the high torque options, like the Kent 180 and the Viper stump puller. What are the implications on the tappets and push rods if you fit these? Also, do you need to fit pocketed pistons if you fit these camshafts?
  9. Thought that some might find this useful...
  10. They must mark them heavily in Aus then, as the base spec Workmate 79 can’t be had for less than $70K, so about £40K. Jeep Wranglers in the UK appear to have benefited from Defender prices, as used prices are now a lot higher than just a couple of years ago. Jeep UK seem to have taken advantage of this and added £10K+ to the price of a JL compared to the equivalent JK before. So in the UK they’re asking about £48K for Rubicon, the equivalent cost ~$44K in the US. The new double cab pick up looks good...
  11. Can’t imagine a stock new Defender being able to tackle the Rubicon... https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/features/tackling-rubicon-trail-jeep-wrangler-rubicon bit of a shame that LR are going to lose all credibility when it’s launched.
  12. Blue sea are good quality. They do a standard dual charger for about £15 or a 4.8A dual fast charge one that’s a lot more pricey at about £40. cheers, Steve
  13. The modern hevac systems seem to use stepper motors now, to give full control and reliability. You could convert you manual controls to feed an arduino stepper motor driver setup. cheers, Steve
  14. People seem to manage to fit in D2 and P38 seats and both are readily available at an ok price. Would fit your comfort requirement too... Going by the pic though, they sit quite a way back.
  15. This usually happens when super locked. Double press of lock button. If so, you’ll need to get door card off and then lock off from the inside.
  16. YRM do the weld on mounts and you could go for this if you want no compromise on or off road with an arb ... https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76
  17. Personally, I use these goggles with the masks as they fit well... https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80545 For cutting, grinding and linishing etc. I use one of these face masks that naturally work well with the dust mask... https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p53860 The dust masks I don’t bother to store them, for the paint masks they do recommend storing them in a bag or sealed box to make them last longer. I’ve been doing so much painting lately I don’t bother to store and personally I haven’t noticed any difference in longevity, but I suspect it’s best to bag etc.. ch
  18. Last year when the hinges on my teng cases started to split... I looked for alternatives as the teng cases are not available on their own. I still wanted portability, and I like the set cases as you know when a tool is missing, misplaced when you’re packing up. So the Solution I went for was to pick up some Bosch tool boxes made by Sortimo and fit some foam inserts from shadow foam... I went for the 136 boxes, about £20-25 on eBay as they can fit two tool trays inside, but they’re available in numerous sizes. I got some ally plate bent up to size too, to hold the top
  19. Yes it is. Having recently removed a 3.9 with auto and BW in one, I’d say no. The reason no, is that it was just possible for us, as it was a parts car and we had cut out the front panel. cheers, Steve
  20. You can give Dave at Ashcrofts a ring if the axles don’t last. I expected to see a brace bar underneath for the rear seats too, rather than just the bolts. Glad to hear the business is going well and good news on the family front too. How’s Gordon Murray’s escort coming on? cheers, Steve
  21. Or in this nice dry weather, get a piece of chalk, (most real mathematicians have this to hand ) draw a line or multiple lines across the tread of the tyre. Drive down an even-ish piece of tarmac and check for wear. If it’s even you’re ok, if not adjust air pressure up or down accordingly.
  22. A blast from the past, 15-16 years ago, but here’s some pics of excellent front bumper that Nick made for me... I have more more pics from all angles and of the bumper off the RR if you need them. The rear bumper was easily solved with a jigsaw, rear exhaust boxes replaced with straight through, and never had any issues after this mod, mostly as I only hit trees going forward. Just looked it up on MOT history and it’s still MOT’d and seemingly going strong, even after all that early abuse. cheers, Steve
  23. P38’s rust too. The 96 one we stripped for the 4.6 V8 had heavily rusted outriggers, rear crossmember, and EAS tank. The main chassis was fine though. Another thing to remember on D2’s, as well as the rust, the majority don’t have diff lock, so you’ll most likely have to retrofit one. As already said both the 4.0 and 4.6 can suffer from the slipped liners, so both D2 & P38 are the same here. Most of the electrical gremlins on a p38 can be bypassed easily. A p38 on air is a better drive than a D2, but for off-roading, HD steering arms, suspension, bumpers etc. are readi
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