jumpy

The headunit on mine had a duff display backlight bulb. You can change the bulb by removing the stereo and (iirc) lift off the top cover plate. It's fairly obvious where the bulb is. I got a replacement from maplin - took the old one with me and the techie guys found a match. Keep the green plastic sleeve as you will need to put it on the new bulb. There should be a button next to the display marked 'mute', on mine this changes the unit from radio/CD mode etc. The preset buttons (1-6) correspond to the disk changer slots as well as the radio station saved channels. As soon as you select the CD changer option, it should just play the disk(s) automatically.

Might be different for a D2, but have you adjusted anything handbrake related recently? I had a worrying judder on my tdi; looked at all sorts of possibilities as to what was wrong - cv joints, bearings, swivel hubs etc. Turned out the handbrake was adjusted too tight (3 clicks on the handbrake instead of the previous 4) and the drum was snatching the prop causing a backlash through the transmission. Slackened off the adjuster on the drum by half a turn and problem solved after almost a year of head scratching. Something to eliminate if nothing else?

I have a similar problem with the lhs alpine light on my disco. There's bubbling under and below the leading corner. As the boot floor is dry, for now I've just applied rust killer to it to slow things down. But it's going to be window out, new seal and steel at some point I was hoping to get it done when sorting out some other rusty bits in the future. For now it will have to wait. If you're going to have a garage do the job, prep the interior yourself so they'll only charge you for the fabrication etc.

Thanks guys. Much obliged. There's always the back up of my local garage chap - within walking distance so if the stub axle bearing/seal is troublesome then I'll see what he can do for a few quid.

Cheers Niamh, I did wonder about the spanner thing - it wasn't expensive so no big loss. (besides, you can never have too many tools ) Obviously my 'haynes big book of lies' is living up to its reputation; the section on wheel bearing replacement talks about holding the inner nut with a ring/open ended spanner, whilst tightening the outer lock nut to the specified torque. Quite how this is possible is a mystery to me. I have all the values for tightening the preload etc from the rave manual, and would really prefer to do the job right. Anyone have any recommendations for thread lock compound? Most of my local motor-factors sell locktight 241 (rave recommends 270? for calliper bolts iirc) Ta.

Hey all, along with replacing my front wheel bearings, I'm also going to examine my CV joints to see what's what. Main reason for doing this is play in bearings LHS which has already been tweaked up once already. I've found greyish oil under the rubber dust cap, on the splined end of the CV joint. I'm thinking that the bearing wear has allowed play causing oneshot grease to leak from the swivel hub through the stub axle. QUESTION: what's the best way to remove/replace the roller bearing and the oil seal inside the stub axle? Manual says 'landrover special tool' (some kind of slide hammer with fitting). Any recommendations for the DIYer? QUESTION: I now have a hub box spanner, but the manual says about torquing up the wheel bearing preload. As I'm fitting new bearings/seals what's the 'best' way of doing this given that I cannot fit a torque wrench to my box spanner? I've read the guides about tightening up until there's resistance, then slackening off quarter/half a turn. Also, how do I keep the inner nut from turning when I'm tightening the outer lock-nut (again without a torque wrench) to approximately 100nm (or is that ftlb?) or whatever the correct value is? Any suggestions welcome. All I need now is a few fine days in a row

The 'standard' 55w H4 bulbs in the main headlights are pants. I have a pair of replacement bulbs from halfrauds iirc (paddocks do similar), about 14 quid for two. Xenon gas and all of that stuff (not coloured bulbs, just plain white light) for the 'super brilliance' bulbs claim up to 50% brighter. They are certainly loads better than the standard ones, the difference was clearly visible (haha). So long as the wattage is the same as the standard bulbs it's a simple swap. Been in a couple of years now. There's also an 'extreme brilliance' ~ £20

Thanks, Les. What you're saying makes sense given the lack of cv/joint bearing failure symptoms ie. no clicking on full lock, smooth rotation of wheel and no rrrrrrr sound indicative of a duff wheel bearing. As far as the leaking oil goes (I've read your article on hub seal failure) there's a considerable amount of oily gunge on the inboard side of the hub itself and around the swivel seal and on the top of the hub near the upper swivel pin. Previously this was clean and dry. There's no oil on the tyre, disk, calliper or pads, but the oil/grease shown in my earlier pics is exactly the same colour as the stuff shown in your article hub seal image I'll try and get a picture of the hub over the weekend. Looking at the rave manual, it seems like the hub seals are a 3 spanner job (ish) whereas replacing the seal or roller bearing for the stub-axle requires more specialist tools Still, I'm perhaps jumping to conclusions here

Thanks guys. I'm away seeing the sights in london this weekend (her treat ), but I'm planing on comparing the amount of oil in the hub dust caps on both sides some time next week, then have a chat with the garage to see what they'd charge to replace all seals, new bearings, cv joint, stub axle as possibilities. Trouble is without taking it to bits it's hard to give a definite answer to what's borked - I've got the number for a mobile mechanic who'd 'help' me with the job, but it's still gonna cost, then there's the parts, new or OE ? agh. Timken is good for the bearings, and I guess the seals can come from LR, but as for a CV/stub axle... they seem to be from 20/30 quid to 30/50 depending on where you go.

Hello all, I'm in the business of diagnosing a troublesome wobble/judder from the front axle somewheres. LHS Prop/UJ's seem ok, plenty of new diff oil. Recently tightened wheel-bearing due to excessive play. Judder only happens after a journey when everything has warmed up a little and then only occurs when I slowly come to a stop - appears sub 5mph and the sound is consistent with the road wheel speed; clunking judder that can be felt through the car, almost like transmission backlash - though everything checks out in terms of play through the diff/prop/tf box etc. I've noticed a lot of oil/collected grit on the back of the hub and the swivel ball feels slightly warm to the touch, whereas the RHS is cold. When I first had the vehicle there was no leaking oil/gunge. I've thought duff bearing/cv joint but none of the accepted symptoms are present to indicate failure of those parts. Swivel bearings are ok. Regular garage has suggested halfshaft wear as a possibility? Passed MOT about 3 weeks back. Problem has been lurking for a while now. I'm leaning towards the loose bearing having damaged a seal, or a seal failure damaging the bearing/cv joint causing the clonking judder when things have warmed up a bit. Under the hub dust cap there's a lot of thinnish grey oil (see attachments) which I'm sure is not right. It doesn't smell like ep90 from the diff. Could it be the oneshot grease from the swivel or from the bearings instead perhaps? As far as I'm aware there's no problem with a blocked axle breather, and after cleaning up the back of the hub, the swivel seal looks intact. Upon inspection the brake disk does cause the pads to move in the calliper in one small part of the rotation, and there's some pitting on the inboard side of the disk, but everything seems to be running true with no obvious misalignment. Any ideas welcome guys, as I'm scratching my head lots with this one.

My '97 300tdi manual does this too. Had it 2 years and it does it sometimes on startup, sometimes not. Result is always the same: usually a slight dip of either the clutch or accelerator pedal will make the noise go away, or diminish significantly. Suggestions as to worn bearings, gearbox, clutch and lots of other expensive stuff. I can't say the clutch is worn, nor either boxes have trouble in operation. I'd not spend too much time worrying about it if I were you.