dailysleaze

Check that the relays under the seat are firmly in place

It's been a long time in the making.... https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic20971.html https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic78628.html I think I remember someone on Aulro getting one to test in Aus years ago. They seemed to get a lot of short nose failures

Defender2.net usually has a group buy going on with a 20% discount. Unfortunately, the import duties now cos of Brexit run to about £80 on top because they are shipped from Cyprus. Might be cheaper to get an easyJet flight and pick up in-country 😁

Shielder supply terrain tech so it's basically the same thing There's a new outfit called Ultra Bulkheads that are creating factory original bulkheads. May not be able to order one yet though https://m.facebook.com/Ultrabulkheads/

To resurrect.... Does anyone know if the connector block itself (YQE102850) is available separately?

Here's some options on ebay https://ebay.us/7eVWoz

I would get one with legs. They'll rot through in a few years if not already.

DA stands for "dreadful/awful"

Yes if it goes all the way it could affect the CV operation. Pumas did away with it and redesigned the halfshaft.

As above. It was a bad diff pinion when that noise happened to me.

You're a braver man than me 😄

Just to confirm, the head seal is the large O ring; as Snagger explained it "the seal between the main case and the square block on the back". I realise the video thumbnail shows the top cover seal, but if you watch the video you'll see where the head (square block on the back) is removed (@ 7:09 timestamp), and it has to be done with the pump pointing down as the springs are likely to fall out

Looks like the head seal. Unfortunately one of the most annoying seals to replace. The pump will have to come off in any case to tackle it

There's a technique where you can put the flange back on then tap it forwards with a long bar from under the transfer box.

Mines apart at the moment. I measured from the bulkhead face below the fuse box to the front face of the square ridge in front of the cubby box = 427mm 1997 300tdi

Thanks all. 5 years old so out of warranty. Tried to fix myself by replacing the thermal fuse for £2, but still doesn't work after that. So I bought a draper one. The lock nut is a loose fit so doesn't clamp the bits, but the one from the end of the Flexi adapter is better so I use that. Thought I'd have to return it but it's working out okay so far

I've used duralac, and margarine tubs cut into gasket shapes

3. Instagram 4x4 outfitters who want to be the first to get their mods out

Ok good to know. It was my first impression on googling the problem - it basically stopped.

I have a Dremel 4000 that decided to just stop - apparently quite common and unrepairable 🤔 Any recommendations for a better quality equivalent, ideally that's compatible with Dremel attachments?

It's a 4-way female econoseal plug. Various suppliers, here's one: https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/4-Way-AMP-Econoseal-III-070-Series-Female-Sealed-Socket-Wiring-Connector-Kit

I would just check out the number of teeth on the GKN gear matches what is on the original input gear https://www.lrworkshop.com/lt230-transfer-box/input-gear

The wing loom will unplug from the bulkhead loom. It's the fat grey connector by the heater box. The wing loom is also normally clipped to the vertical bracket of the inner wing.

Try changing the key fob battery based on the instructions in the handbook