dailysleaze
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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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It stopped being part of the kits several years ago. It fits around the lip of the drop arm with the wider end up.
If it is lost from your vehicle then you will need to fit a later type drop arm which has the lip in the casting, unless you can find one second hand. The guide may be of the later style
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Is it a 90?
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Just a word of warning to those who have EGR pumps (96-98 ish), there are few extra levers inside so it's a more difficult job to get the top cover on and off. I managed to snap a bit as the throttle spindle wouldn't push out. If it doesn't go, then don't push it more, you have to twist the spindle a bit to move the spring assembly away from the lever on the side.
Getting the cover back on is difficult. I had taken the pump off by this point to find the snapped bit and take the opportunity to replace all the seals. I don't know how you could get it back on without damaging anything whilst it's in the vehicle. I needed the pump on it's side to look up to get the governor spring shaft into the main lever. The room to move is so small it's quite hard to get pliers in to twist the flat of the shaft round to lock it in. You also need the fuel solenoid removed to be able to manoeuvre the top cover correctly against the max fuel lever.
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So to close this off after a month of finding time to get the pump off and seek out the right part, I had to buy the full spring assembly @ £75. Part number is 1 463 163 150.
I took the opportunity to replace all the seals on the pump at the same time and shook it upside down a lot. Nothing fell out so i'm fairly confident about it not being in there. I tried to take the distributor head off to really check inside, but one of the torx screws was rounding so left it alone.
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Not done it myself but here's a video which may give some ideas. He takes out the seatbox.
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Being that age, it may have a 1.667 transfer box. Normally Defenders have 1.4. There should be a label just under the fill plug next to the handbrake drum.
If not then replace the fuel lift pump and check the turbo hoses for holes/delamination inside.
Can't give more specific advice as unsure if you have a 2.5TD or it's been upgraded to a 200/300Tdi (as many from that era have).
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Ah yeah, I skipped that bit
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The Extra show wasn't half bad. They should have used those presenters (poached from youtube) for the main show.
I suspect they're trying to find the new Top Gear audience, as the die hards will go to Amazon prime. So you have a the "petrol head/youth BBC 3" programme and a more "beautiful film/banter/celeb" programme on terrestrial. Time will tell which format is more successful.
I mostly watched Top Gear for the overseas specials. It has been childish at times but I put up with those for the good bits.
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I thought they'd innovate a bit more. Instead it's just exactly the same, but a bit more like "TFI Top Gear". Time will tell if their personalities can support that style.
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Thanks all for the links. I'm starting to understand how things work with the model naming.
Looking at the changes they've made over the years for subsequent models, like J75 -> J78/79, Toyota haven't been afraid to innovate/improve core attributes unlike LR. Like going to coil springs on the front and making the body/wheel track wider.
What i'm most excited about is seeing how another set of engineers has approached the same set of requirements for an off road vehicle, and getting more informed on the debate!
jamie_grieve isn't it the case that Toyota are stopping the 70 series soon, in which case everyone's giving up on a mechanical, utilitarian vehicle?
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I did find this site which is more helpful in getting an overview: http://toyota-europe.epc-data.com/land_cruiser/. Looks like you have to choose between Japan, Europe, USA and General before you can decode the first part of the VIN.
I'm going to be working with 4 vehicles and they're all different. I've asked for the VINs to be able to unpick their specs. All I have at the moment is model years and vague descriptions. I don't know what they look like. So far i've worked out the code dictating the models are (Engine - Wheelbase - LHD/RHD), e.g. HZ - J78 - R (HZJ78R)
I'm sure it's all logical as it's made by engineers at the end of the day. It just feels like learning another language!
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I'm finding it quite difficult to get a good overview of information from the internet. I'm trying to decipher the model numbers, but they look like the worst letters in Russian scrabble. Then they're all different depending on the factory they were built in. And they've got different names depending on where they were sold. Then I can't find any good resources on how to find part numbers nor where I can buy those in the UK. LJ78? Apparantly it's a Jap import, but I can't find what it's the same as: HZJ78? FZJ78? Or is it entirely different?
Admittedly i've only spent an evening on it, but it's like no-one cares about this sort of stuff and hardly anything's been published online (maybe as already said, because they don't break down!)
Land Rovers seem easy!
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Soon I'm going to be getting down and dirty with some Land Cruisers
It's a bit of a whole new world for me. Can anyone point me in the direction of some good online forums/resources equivalent to this one?
*ducks*
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Whilst taking the injection pump top housing off to do the throttle spindle seal, I snapped an ear off of the throttle springy thing. Turns out the EGR type pump has lots of extra levers in it which prevented the cover coming off easily like every guide on the internet says it does.
I don't know where the piece is, so it may be in the bottom of the pump. I rooted around inside with a magnetic screwdriver but didn't find it. I could probably replace the broken part, but I suspect it's likely that the missing piece would destroy the pump anyway.
Thoughts?
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Bear in mind that most 300Tdis now are 18+ years and likely have 100k+ miles, so it won't perform near what it should when new. There's no chance mine on 170k could tow at 70mph and be happy. I can hardly drive that fast without a trailer
, even though similar to neil110 it used to tow trailers around the alps.And it's not just the engine but all the ancilliaries may be worn at that mileage (turbo,injectors,head gasket,etc.), which will impact more on the reliability than the engine block or its design.
(Unless you're going to fit a recon engine and new parts)
Td5s seem to have more underlying problems that could crop up at any time (oil in loom, cracked head, crank bolt) so peace of mind isn't as good as the 300Tdi, but performance will be better.
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I sometimes see people advertising parts for sale with photos from my blog!
There's lots of images on ebay which don't match the description, or are repeated for multiple items. You have to be confident in the seller being reputable and look for specific phrases. I tend to buy from retailers with their own websites these days
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- Marslands do not want to stray from what GKN are still making to LR spec so they are restricted to what GKN have - namely for a 300tdi an original chassis with TD5 rear cross member and plastic tank mounts (although you can specify metal tank mounts but still with the TD5 crossmember). Not sure about later models after TD5
They have since swapped their default tank mounts to the metal type (as I found out to my disappointment earlier in this thread), so you have to specifically ask for the plastic tank mounts now.
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It'll be expensive because Britpart/Bearmach don't source them, because no-one wants to buy them, so LR don't make them any more, meaning they have a limited stock, and because they have don't have any competitors they can charge what they want, and because it doesn't fly off the shelves they live in the uncategorised bucket of parts at the back of the warehouse, so it takes them more time to fufil an order.
Supply and demand!
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I had a short trolley jack but I had to put bricks under it to get it to lift the wheel high enough. Plus it had a large footprint that prevents easily placing axle stands. I also used a hi-lift in the early days but as you say it has to go to the length of the suspension to lift the wheel and it's cumbersome to use.
Now I use a bottle jack as above. It goes to the right height and has a small footprint. if I had the space though i'd use a large trolley jack under the diff for speed.
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Yeah I saw it had disappeared also. Via their Twitter account the URL is now this: http://landywatch.createaforum.com/
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Also be aware that the flywheel can be 180 degrees out, so if you don't see the mark when the pin is in the injection pump, then rotate the engine another full turn to be sure.
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Compared to ATF, it's more like water.
I even found a video in the archives!
, even though similar to neil110 it used to tow trailers around the alps.
td5 performance issue - something is lacking.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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The pedal resistor could have a flat spot.
The low range switch could be broken and thinks it's in low range always so has adjusted the throttle response.
Td5s have an anti stall feature which only works when there is no throttle input. Pulling away on tickover will reduce the stalling.