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dailysleaze

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Everything posted by dailysleaze

  1. How about an "offroad-first" vehicle that: does 0-60 in 3 seconds can tow 5 tons has steep approach/departure angles has 1000mm wading depth has 360mm ground clearance does 400 miles range come as a pickup or station wagon available in 2020-2021 Does that interest anyone? (I will reveal a bit later)
  2. Thanks to @Stellaghost i've been able to compare the two brackets, and there's differences in almost everything: position on the engine, height, position of the threaded holes, cradle angle, although the cradle curve is within a few mm of each other. I'm sending the bracket off to @vulcan bomber who's going to see what he can come up with 👍
  3. No contest...😁 It's amazing how the falling snow in Canada knows to miss your driveway.
  4. Sorry I had already updated my answer as it might not have been clear enough. Brown/red is just for the starter solenoid, not to turn the starter motor.
  5. The brown/red one on your connector is for the starter solenoid. It's fed by the starter relay and ignition switch. The feed to turn the starter motor comes direct from the battery.
  6. The connector is this https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2002my/C0449 Brown/grey is fed from Fuse 29, intended for the A/C cooling fan The thinner brown is fed by the ECM to a header (C0294 under the RH seat) that powers a lot of things like EGR modulator, glow plugs...
  7. Yes for A/C. I already have the compressor, which fits the pipes I already have......... etc. etc. The bracket is the last piece of the puzzle! 😁
  8. The Defender compressor is the Sanden, BTR8505 or JPB101200, rather than Denso on the other vehicles. There may well be some potential to fit belt-alignment-wise but there are different part numbers for the brackets ERR4975 (left) or ERR4368 (right). I will be able to see if I can get the bracket from Stellaghost to check in the first instance. The stud holes look differently spaced though for the compressor mounts.
  9. Thanks for the replies folks. Happy new year. It's a 300Tdi Defender bracket for the A/C compressor. Unfortunately from the research i've done there are 3 types of A/C compressor - Disco/RR, Wolf Pulse and Defender(98-06) and they are all different. The ones on ebay are the former and appear to have different offsets for the belt alignment. I already have the Defender bits so don't want to retrofit an alternate vehicle's system. Yes i'd be happy with something functional that doesn't look exactly the same. The curved cradle aspect seems as though it may be important to the design to stop the studs being shaken laterally from engine vibration. That's a good shout. Yeah CNC may be a sledgehammer for a nut so i'm exploring options in this thread 🙂 This would at least allow me to compare the differences and see if it could be adapted. You have PM. Fabrication is a good suggestion I hadn't explored. You have PM. I have a couple of months with this bracket before it needs to be returned, hence why "cost effectiveness" can be factored-in.
  10. It's listed as "Tachometer" but in reality it is the alternator as you say; I presume the wiring diagram means the EGR ECU is using the alternator as a tachometer i.e. engine speed https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-1996-300tdi/C937 Here it is on the vehicle:
  11. I've had 3 aftermarket exhaust rear sections and they were all slightly different shapes, so yours could be.
  12. NRC4514 as they're matched to the chassis hole rather than the radius arm. Are you using 46mm wide front radius arms?
  13. There won't be a part number as they are left open, so measuring and finding your own grommet is the way to go If that crossmember is aftermarket, make sure it has drainage holes at the lowest point on the chassis leg, or drill some if not. Mine filled with water in 3 winter driving days.
  14. I need to copy this compressor cradle which is unavailable from LR. I've never seen one for sale in the UK so i'm looking at advice on reverse engineering it cost effectively. I have limited experience other than basic CAD. It's cast aluminium and has some annoying curves. Options i've identified so far: 3d scan and use a CNC service Measure it, build a 3d model and use a CNC service As above but buy a CNC machine and DIY it Find a tradesman who can whip something equivalent up in their shed What other advice/options/recommendations are out there?
  15. Fronts, yes Rears, yes.................. ............but there will be lots of posts arriving after mine about how it's not technically rated for the weight of a 110. The rear 90 axle is not the same as the rear 110 Td5/Puma axle
  16. The fourth is the fog lamp ecu connector https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2002my/C0543 The fog lamp switch is this https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2002my/C1741, not shown in your photo and as already said is in the centre of the loom above the fuse box.
  17. I try to stay away from Britpart but that looks quite good
  18. Hi Tom. If you're looking for the part number as opposed to the physical cable in the engine bay, then this is it: https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/FSE500080
  19. I managed to finish getting electric into the garage and what a luxury it is! For the lighting, I couldn't really decide so have currently kept the LED tape hooked up to a 12v transformer. The 15m equivalent of lighting is enough to see well, but isn't bright enough to do an fine detail work - you still have to squint. It runs at 36 watts so I think i'll run another 6 strips next to the current ones and see how much better it is. I've got a 2 gang switch so I'll be able to wire the strips independently to adjust output. Wiring in conduit is particularly fiddly, as you have to think a few steps ahead, but it's incredibly satisfying once it's done. I also put a bulb up in the roof space and that is a revelation!
  20. Adwest (or Magal as it's now known) stopped making the boxes when Defender production ended, so stock will be disappearing (or already gone) and recon or copies will become the only option in future.
  21. I think the upshot is, as a lot of comments are suggesting, that the weight put on "OEM" varies depending on the part. If anyone has a particular insight for a part they've bought then go and add a review at LR Workshop, and we may to be able to make sense of the confusion. Here's one I added for an alternator.
  22. Is it LR028972? This is listed for vehicles from 2005 as a straight piece. LR028971 is a corner piece.
  23. For ECU engines you pay £100's to a (hopefully reputable) company that measures your engine's characteristics and tunes it to what it needs. For mechanical engines, you pay £15 for a metal shaft machined by a bloke in a shed, with no data to back it up or understanding of how your engine will react That was tongue in cheek, but the margin for error in the latter is a lot larger, so engine damage is a real possibility. Whether that happens in 100 miles, 30k miles or never, no-one knows for your engine. An EGT gauge would be wise, as well as regular servicing.
  24. Now that I would like to see 😂 My brake pedal firmness isn't great, but it did improve a bit with new front calipers. Did you bleed the master cylinder on the bench before fitting? This is one of the only things I've got left to try having replaced all else.
  25. The other theory is that with the new Defender looking less and less like the Defender we know, current owners will cling tighter to what they have, therefore reducing supply. I don't see many 300tdis for sale these days. I think Puma prices are crazy, but I don't think 300tdi prices are crazy. They're not much more than I paid 8 years ago, but it certainly is harder to find the one you want.
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