Maggot4x4

I like my rims, and I know they are the only ones on a Rangie

I am thinking of making on of my rangies a tray back ute, my question is would you bother welding the rear panel in or just pop rivet it or sikaflex it, or both? It is only a toy, I just couldn't be bother with a tig is all.

The 120 is the current model prado I am fairly sure

GQ for Sale And another Here is a Gu, it will have 4.6 Diffs Here is a 100 series for a rear diff 80 series 80 with lockers and turbo diesel less than 4500 quid That will do for 5 mins work

Most of the comp diesels over here make between 250 - 350 RWHP. Often twin turbo and gas injected The rangi of mine in the pics is my go on holidays truck, take it to Fraser Island (10 Minutes away, I can see it from my Balcony ) Cape York etc. I also have a 350 Chev powered '83 Rangie that is slowly being but for comp work.

Yeah, the GQ rear did cause probs, thats why it now has 80 series cruiser. No more probs. I haven't posted pics of the cruiser diff in the car yet as I have to take them first

Here is a good page to read Toyota Axels Left Side Inner Axles: 90+ 70 series: 30 3/16" 89- 70 series: 29 3/32" 60 series: 31 15/32" 40 series: 29 1/8" Hilux/4Runner: 31 15/32 Right Side Inner Axles: 90+ 70 series: 16 5/16" 60 series/89- 70 series/40 series: 17 5/16" Hilux/4Runner 15 5/16"

The ones in the pics are the GQ rear, I will get some of the Toyota rear in the next few days

No Worries, As you can see I have uploaded the build up pics I promised Build Up Picks

That is the buggest load of bull I have ever heard. I have gone 12 years in GQ's and broken 1 CV, and that was due to a bent steering stop. And the smallist tyres I run are 315x75x16 and have often run 38's.

You can buy disk's in Aus for $30 for cruiser or GQ so with the exchange rate that's what, 10quid. It always makes me laugh when people say the are keeping it Rover and then proceed to fit MD's, Ashcroft KAM etc. They fit a rover housing but the are NOT rover. So the only bit that is rover is the housing, and generally that will have been strenghtened anyway. A nissan GQ or GU/GR front diff will bolt straight into a RR/Disco/Fender using the Nissan lower arms, no mods to the chassis at all. You need to make up a panhard and steering arm but that's it. You don't even need to change the coil pads if you don't want to (I did personally as I wanted to run rover springs). Pics of GQ front in my Rangie For the rear is is better to run an 80 series than the GQ. Having run both in the same truck, and blown up 3 different tailshafts with the GQ, including wideangle uni ones. If it is just for a comp rig the GQ is fine, but if it is road driven regulary the vibs will annoy you. With 80 series rear, for the tail shaft is stock rover and just redrill the flanges. There is more work putting the rear diff in, but it is well worth it IMHO. The other thing with the Nissan & Toy swap is you get 4.1's as standard.