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Shackleton

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Shackleton last won the day on May 25

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About Shackleton

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    George

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    Ireland

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  1. Didn't realise it existed, thanks a mill. Do you by any chance know how to put one of those cables together?
  2. Oh dear, I'll try shift gears in t-box neutral and see if it bears the same symptoms. Fingers crossed. Whatever it is I don't need it, but thems the breaks. Cheers Mike when the love of the cars isn't quite cutting it for my own motivation it's the messages of renewed motivation from others that keep me going. I do behind the scenes update videos for patrons and they're probably more me trying not to whinge too loudly about frustrations, than they are extra practical content.
  3. What ho Ste! I have a start to finish edit of the Vogue on the way, and tomorrow the Esprit chassis meets a media blaster who I'm going to have a sit down chat with too. I've also nailed down the new welder situation and will shoot some videos with an expert later this month. So there's stuff coming, and then some . Juggling like mad whilst trying to regain a little zen here. The Vogue rebuild got on top of me if I'm honest. Been doing fun little things quietly without a camera, like getting the cruise control going again and stone chipping all that lovely clean underbody work, but I've a couple of niggles that I'm completely unsure about. I haven't managed to track down the gain/loss of power yet, but if I'm honest I haven't done much save for checking vacuum lines and servicing the dizzy cap. I should really just replace those and the plugs. I'm also wondering whether a fuel filter could cause that kind of temporary gain in power after a heavy revving. There's a whine from under the car under heavy load, in fact it rarely happens because I don't have a heavy foot. Not at 15mpg . When I had the rear diff out it didn't show any signs of poor bearing or wheel condition and it's not weeping from the input flange, plus it's just gotten fresh fluid. So I'm hoping it's not that. Likewise the aft end of the rear prop was in good fettle too. I haven't checked the transfer case for fluid, could it be as simple as lack of? While I'm asking questions, is it ok to freewheel an auto RRC? Anyway standby for normal [improved] service to resume, I'm excited to get things going again and bring some extra quality to the series.
  4. What walace58 said, read heated washer, rather than heated windscreen. I've often wondered how the car knew when to heat the washers. Also the how a RRC knows to activate the heated door locks I found in mine, albeit not connected. Intended for Scandinavian climes I believe.
  5. Thanks J, next instalment will be the start to finish of the Vogue all in one, and it's been a mammoth edit. The raw stop motion footage came to 6.5hrs! I'm now thinking that presuming the much reduced edit still won't be to everyone's taste, I might hold off just a little longer and bring a second episode with a return to the Esprit in tandem to the Vogue end of story. Just realised that the test result here is a bit of a scoop [outside of the patron behind the scenes videos], hope it wasn't a spoiler
  6. Haven't driven it since really, our tax starts on the first of the month and is ludicrously expensive so I'm waiting for July 1 to tax. Will have a good rummage around in the meantime, haven't heard of a few of those things so thanks for all the steers. Hopefully it just needs a good blow out. Thanks for the congrats too, was a big day. Might have gotten a bit of a shaky bottom lip when I was in the queue for the retest and realised it was just a formality. Been a journey.
  7. I dropped my 3.9EFI RR in for it's test [it passed] and when it came out it was much more responsive and powerful. I mean night and day different. I needed to go get a bulb for a visual retest and the service station is 1km from the test centre. Went there, stopped the car, got the bulb, went back, got my test cert. Somewhere in between the car went back to performing like it had before the test. Just to say that the test here is carried out by dedicated test centres. There's no work done on cars, it goes in one side of the centre, is tested for the usual stuff and comes out the other side of the building almost like a production line. You sit in a waiting room in the meantime and you can see the test floor. I figure whatever happened happened when the car was being revved for emissions testing. Why!? And how do I make the regained performance permanent? I initially thought MAF replacement but if that was dodgy surely it wouldn't pass emissions.
  8. Have a prob with the driver's door that I'm sure is just wear, but thought I'd ask here rather than start a new topic. I've just fitted a cheapo eblag central locking control unit and it works fine. The linkage in the door isn't playing ball though, there's resistance in it. It's enough resistance that even manually gripping the bar that would normally attach to the actuator with your hand [actuator removed], it's very difficult to operate the system. You'll see I've white greased the linkage but it didn't make enough difference. Have a look at the vid... RRC CL Prob 480.mov
  9. Hi Jordan, That's my video above, chuffed to see it thanks lads. It's all been said already but to expand - start at the front and look up behind the front air dam under the light boxes and around the four forward body mounts. Looking for rust obvs ;). Check the top of the bulkhead from inside the engine bay, so just over the engine under the overhang of the scuttle. If there's any sign of rust water or scabs there it's a scuttle off job and if you ask me to do it nicely it's an engine out one too. Inner arch stuff should be fairly obvious but pull out the driver and front pax carpets and sound deadening and thoroughly check the footwells, all the way in to the trans tunnel. Bottom of A, B and C pillars don't fair well. There's an L shaped flange that runs under the floor on both sides carrying the brake lines, it's a stupid design and a trap for rust. Then the rear inner arches, especially the outer edges of them where they meet the inner side body panel. The rails that carry the boot floor, the sides and rear of the floor itself and the rear cross member. If you've still got energy try and inspect the tiny gap between the top of the windscreen rubber and the roof gutter. I'm not even sure that with a torch you will be able to see in that gap it's so tight, but that was rotted out badly in there on mine. Oh and check the door spines and bottoms, the fuel tank cradle, the cross bar of the rear goal post and the bottom of the alu outer panels where they fasten to the bumpers/mud flaps. The chassis as Bowie said are hardy, built to last and can be fairly scabby around the axle upsweeps and still come back up fine. Have a good look at the diff pans, make sure they're not held together by underseal. Ask me how I know Engine and box wise, well like Bowie also said the V8 needs looking after but is great. My car despite what it might seem, was a one owner and cherished. It runs like a Swiss watch despite having travelled 210k miles. The box shifts smooth and the interior, well you wouldn't know the seats had seen that much use. Quality leather! But it cost to have it in such good mechanical condition. How's £48k in maintenance over the 25 years before I got it! That's more than the top spec car cost new, and that's what it took to meet the service schedules and never let the slightest thing go wanting. Two scheduled services were late in that time, one by 500 miles, the other by 40. The rest were generally a few miles early. So having gone through the bulging service [box]file I'd say make sure the car you get has plenty of paperwork. BTW the autobox has a dipstick in the engine bay, you check it while running but while everything's cold. When the car starts first it'll take the revs to something like 1500rpm and drop them fairly quickly in increments of a couple of hundred rpm at a time, settling at 800 or 900rpm [I can't remember exactly] but this is normal and a good indication of the idle air control valve operating properly. The '90 model will have the Borg Warner transfer case, not sure there'll be much you can do to check it while viewing but if it's not making funky noises it's a start. It's not known for being the greatest TBox ever but seems ok if maintained. I'm sketchy on that. Just to say, they're beautiful machines. Enough time has passed that the tech in them is old school simple and all potential probs are well documented. They're also every bit a LR and massively capable. One of my favourite things is either reminding or informing people that the RR was the first coil sprung LR and essentially the Defender was developed off that platform. The RR may tip it's hat to comfort and style but it's no pansie.
  10. Hopefully next week it'll be a road legal lawn mower What I've found is the D2 is actually a better mower tow-er. The dulled throttle in low range makes all the difference. 1250rpm, A/C and some tunes... it's lovely. Having said that I may have adjusted the throttle linkage on the Vogue a little tight, but it's a bit decadent to be mowing a few acres with a V8. If I can figure out how to build a little box to trick the D2's cruise into working under 30mph it'll be perfect.
  11. Thanks Ben, the test is booked! Fingers crossed.
  12. Def a full cut of all the work, that's always been on the cards. Just those last few jobs to do. Still raging I never took any footage of the car before really, I was just too eager to get into it. Thanks Peter, as I was doing the windscreen frame repairs I all of a sudden stood back and realised I was doing stuff I'd never have guessed I'd be doing. I mean skills wise rather than the surprise of the rust No drone, much as I'd like one I asked a pal [and LR guy] would he come over and give it a go!
  13. Thanks a mill lads, pretty happy with this one and really motivating to see all the progression in the footage. The completely ripped apart rear end felt like a suppressed memory FF I actually cut a short section out of the old rubber to show a H, and was hoping Anthony would bring an S section with him and when that didn't happen I was going to show an on screen diagram. There's always something that gets left out in the rush to release an episode and unfortunately that was it in this one. Plus some key bits of the Vogue montage, but hey... there'll always be time for directors cuts when I'm rich and retired Top and bottom rows are S rubber and the second row are all H's. Basically the S places the glass outside the car body aperture/frame, while the H places the screen in the aperture. The notch in the H at 6 o'clock is for the locking trim. @Blanco It'll be classic for tax in '21 and I'll put it on the road hopefully before the end of the month so I have it for the summer. Want to get a test for it this coming week, early next week at the latest.
  14. I can finally see the end with the Vogue! And btw it's a flipping gorgeous machine
  15. Nope, you're right. Absolutely useless. The v notch it speaks of is showing so everything is aligned it seems. I'm stumped. The sunroof goes back no prob, but unless I help it coming forward it wants to tilt back up before it's even half way forward and pins itself against the actual roof. Could that be just the worm drives needing lube?
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