LR2luver

Hi, this is from my previous experience, but I strongly recommend checking the earthing studs located near the battery. I realised (after finding lots of electrical faults) when I lifted the battery in and out I inadvertantly broke the earthing studs off from the inner guard. Too easy to do. Once I fixed that little problem, everything else was fine. It's a stupid place for the earthing studs, but, well thats engineers for you. Good luck.

D-Lander is quite right, the ECU is actually keeping the electric motor for the throttle body active, part of the reason is to 'shake' the throttle butterfly in the hope of dislodging any carbon build up, thus avoiding a jamming of the butterfly at the idle position, and thus avoiding making the throttle motor work harder to over-come the jamming. And yes, it will happen every ignition cycle, just like the ABS pump checking itself every start-up/move-off.

If I can throw my two cents worth in; the cylinder heads may be a source of coolant entering the combustion chamber. If there is a crack in the inlet tract somewhere that may explain it. It could even be cracked near the seat. An engineering shop could pressure test the heads and check for leaks. It may or may not be repairable. And they will charge for the work performed. They will also check if the head is bent/warped. They could also check the hardness of the alloy, measured in Brunells I think. If the motor has over-heated at some stage (and you may not know if it has or not, and does the oil smell like its been burnt?) the head/s could have warped, or the alloy gone soft and lost its tension against the head bolts. If the heads are soft they can be re-hardened but its a specialist job, not everyone engineering shop can do it. So they may well need to be replaced with either new or refurbished heads, then built up with the valves, studs etc. If the heads are warped, and not too thin through previous machining, they may be able to straighten them, then refurbish them. All this costs money, obviously. So, you might finish up with a pair of smart, healthy, refurbished heads ready to put back on what? The old block that's done X amount of miles, possibly been overheated, sludged up etc. The heads will work like new, probably up the compression pressure to some degree and hey presto! you start burning oil because the botom end of the motor ie the block is old and tired. And that's assuming the cylinder liners are at the correct height. Just some extra points to consider before blowing your hard earned money. Hope it helps. Cheers. Andrew Katherine NT Australia

Sometimes it's too easy to get concerned about pad wear when they don't appear to be wearing evenly. More often than not it's the nature of the simple sliding caliper. Simple because it uses pistons on just one side, usually the inside on the disc. If the car had twin piston calipers i.e. one piston each side of the disc, then you would reasonably expect the pads to wear evenly. Equal pressures and all that. But the sliding caliper is extremely cheap to make and maintain. So, yes, the slides are indeed important, and not hard to replace (unless jammed in place with rust), but I recommend removing, cleaning and lubing each pad and/or disc change. You've pulled most of the caliper apart anyway, so why not go that little extra distance and do the job thoroughly. We are talking brakes after all, a major safety item/system!

Hey guys, I know you think it's just a piece of plastic. But think about what that piece of plastic represents. It's one of the worlds most recogniseable brands, the Green Oval. It's up there with Coca Cola, Intel, Apple, etc. The badge has heritage, it says quality, it says go anywhere, it has corporate identity and it has copyright. And being a genuine part it has the right fit, too. So for all that, 35 quid + VAT is a small price to pay for the Green Oval and wear with pride...

I can't remember if there is a key you can use in RH door, but if there is, does the LH door unlock with key as well as the remote? If it does then it suggests the central locking motor on the RH door has a fault, ie wont operate in one direction, in this case unlock. Usually requires a new/replacement motor assembly if it's seperate, or a whole latch/motor assembly if not seperate. You could try taking the door trim off, which would give you access to the speaker for measuring, but you could also apply 12 volts direct from the battery to the RH central locking motor. If you can confirm it operates in one direction, then reverse the wires to check the other direction, you will have eliminated all the other possibilities in one fell swoop.

Hi, very easy to overlook the simple things like the battery. I recommend using a smart tester to check the cold cranking amps. The battery needs a minimum of CCA's to make anything work, even if it shows 12 or more volts. I have also seen an earthing stud break away from the body just near the battery. The battery had been replaced, carelessly, and knocked the stud off the guard. Poor earthing was the result, and it affected the central locking and subsequently the starting. Just a thought.

I know that Dealers have a reputation for charging through the nose, but they do have the appropriate test equipment to plug in the car and complete a diagnosis. And you can ask that be all they do. There may be a number of possible faults, each of each will need checking or eliminating, rechecking with test equipment, and if all is ok, the warning lamp will be de-activated as a part of the final check process. But because there are a number of possible causes you need the system checked. If any action through driving happens to make the warning light go out that only means the light has gone out, not that the fault has been rectified. And being part of a safety system I recommend you make use of a Dealer asap.

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