elbekko

Did it move when you put it in HI?

Could be it'd start working fine again when resetting the fault, they do that sometimes...

Toughbook CF-18 running Windows 7 with OziExplorer and Garmin Mobile PC, using a GPSmap 62s as GPS receiver.

At least the P38 won't rot out from under you... If you want a problemless car, don't get one. But if you want a lot of car for you money, do get one.

Interesting... may have to give this a go on the 300TDi if I ever feel like it.

Sure, no problem. And if anyone has more of those SIDs, feel free to send them to me, I'll upload them with the rest.

http://rave.stringsandints.com/

It was in reply to the OP, a 200TDi with a serpentine setup is a 300TDi...

You mean a 300TDi?

Those eBay rectifiers are massive when plugging them into the model! I could maybe get away with mounting 5 of them if I cut off the mounting feet and glue them on (or put locking clips in the model).

That looks good! Dimensions may be manageable too, will have to plop it into Solidworks and see... Worst case I go to 4 ports, or have 2 "low current" ports that share a regulator. I could probably get away with 3, but I'd rather have some overkill than needing more later. Just off the top of my head: - my phone - friend's phone - gpsmap That's already 3 devices, of which 2 can draw pretty high current. Yeah, that's what I thought too, but if I can't find them...

I thought I'd be able to drop them into the hole, and then lightly glue them in or something. Then solder some cables to the pins. I can find a 1.5A one: http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/154987/ But that's slightly underrated, I'd like to get at least 1.8A. The price and 1A rating of those is exactly the reason I wanted to make my own! What would work too is a bigger single regulator that has a max of 15A, ish. I'd be happy with 10A too. The chance that all ports are full and are pulling max load is pretty slim. Something like this, but then in a better form factor: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-dc-converters/7603366/

Thanks for the input TSD, that's why I posted this I figured they'd be putting out a lot of heat, hence the metal-ish plate and mounting tabs - but apparently that won't be enough then... Indicating to the phone that it's a power source should indeed be just connecting the D+ and D- on the plug. At least that's what the USB charging spec says. I don't have any Apple products or want to come anywhere near them, so that's no problem The one you linked, any chance I'd be able to just buy that rectifier, without it being waterproof and the USB lead? There's a few of them on Conrad, but can't really make sense of the specs...

I've been thinking about making a little plate with USB charge ports to go instead of the ashtray in my P38. Some devices, like my phone, can draw up to almost 2A, so it'll need a beefy voltage regulator. I found the LM350T regulator at Conrad, which can supposedly handle 3A+: http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/176052/ Also found some USB ports: http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/738792/ And made up a drawing in Solidworks of the plate: And what it would look like with 5 regulators mounted and some USB ports (very rough): Having this plate 3D printed in alumide would cost about €25. I'd have it printed in alumide instead of ABS in the hopes that it'd conduct heat a bit better. There's a few vents to let out possible heat from the regulators. So... tell me why this is a daft idea that'll never work please, before I start ordering components. Also what I forgot (some circuitry to "configure" the regulators is needed too, plenty of room for that I'd think).

Are the injector mounts tight? I had a ticking on my 300TDi, turns out the injectors were still loose after tightening to the correct torque (probably dirty thread).

Tons of TD5s here...

It may be better to put a Defender cab on a small truck chassis, this way you'll have the looks of the Defender combined with the towing ability and legality of the truck. Not saying it'll be easier to get approved though!

Is it still there when you turn off the aircon? Mine squeals a bit too when the aircon is on.

Sure it will, I'd be very surprised if the back end of the gearbox is different.

Since the objective is to fully replace the GEMS ECU, it'll have to supply a few outputs in a certain format (RPM signal for example). Immobilisation should also be possible to get around, apparently you can program the BeCM to accept FFFF as a de-immobilisation response. Things like that. That'll be the one I was looking at then, I thought there maybe was some more documentation or something. I've done ASM before, I found it quite fun, but maybe indeed a bit tedious. Anyway, sorry for the hijack.

Speaking of that, is there any good info on modifying the firmware? I've looked into it before, but haven't found much apart from the one asm file which was slightly documented. Will probably need to do some mods for special outputs when we start putting it in a P38.

I believe the rake is to help keep you in your seat if you faceplant into something.

Different casting, the holes are in different spots!

As said, a Weatherpak-type plug, but looking at these pictures apparently slightly different still Same plugs are used for the knock sensors, and I think the cam and crank sensor too.

Pretty sure the Thor TPS is a 3-pin Weatherpak plug, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-Weather-Pack-3-Pin-Weatherpack-Kit-12-AWG-/230623435603