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elbekko

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Everything posted by elbekko

  1. Wrong, from 87 or so ish they all had the BW, including my softdash with R380. Fitting an LT230 is easy as bolting it in though, so I don't see why that should stop you.
  2. Did you reconnect the crank sensor if you disconnected it (you probably did, IIRC it's mounted to the LHS head)?
  3. He can also jump off a cliff, and that sounds like it's an equally brilliant idea
  4. There's always the option of just doing the mods and saying F off to the government, as many do...
  5. I've lifted both, the winchbumper is definitely a fair bit heavier. Perhaps that a tubular one can come close...
  6. I think your bathroom scale may have just been at its upper limit, no way that a winchbumper is the same weight as a stock bumper.
  7. The heat shields aren't really necessary, just make sure the plug wires are out of the way.
  8. Have a play with the Ashcroft calculator: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html
  9. I think you've pretty much got it, earlier spark = more burn = more fuel = more power (in simple terms, not quite that black and white). You mostly have to worry about leanness when the motor is actually working. Now in your case I'm a bit skeptical that leaning it out will do much, since you mention the MAP is pretty high at cruise. If you lean it out, you'll just move up the map to more load and more fuel, eventually reaching the same point probably. I have to agree too that the nicely running engine is a big tempation. It's been a fair few months since I've swtiched from a 300TDi to a 4.6 V8, and it's still pretty difficult to keep my foot out of it
  10. If it's in the right enclosure, it shouldn't be a problem in mud/water. Look up IP ratings. Now, a linear actuator that big with a good IP rating must've been a pretty penny...
  11. Why? There is very little force in the direction of the thread, it's pretty much all shear force. The only thing that you need to worry about, as with a regular bolt, is it backing out.
  12. It's no different than the other Rover V8s, the plenum is just a lot bigger. There's one more gasket there than there was on the old ones, and that's all there is to it.
  13. That picture makes it look an awful lot like the BMW diesel in the P38
  14. The box of blue strikes again, the bearing probably seized and stuff started getting very hot...
  15. I'd say 4k is a bit steep, unless it's almost perfect. Not sure about the prices in the UK though. The ABS light could be normal.
  16. I'd stay away from the diesel + auto, absolute pigs to drive, and you either feel like you're standing still or that you're breaking it. The V8s are much nicer, and on LPG not too expensive to run. People have a lot of horror stories, but most problems are fairly straightforward if you know where to look. Mine was very cheap, and it drives great. Sure it has its faults, but it also has 255k km on it, so I don't blame it too much. Very comfortable, and will surprise you off-road too!
  17. Here are some pics from mine: http://imgur.com/a/gwhsX
  18. I can get you pics of mine, but you'll have to look past a whole bunch of LPG injectors on the top. Have to go fiddle with it later anyway, so might as well take the camera.
  19. And possibly also provide an easily replaced "weak link" that slips before shafts break etc. I'd rather have it slipping a bit and giving notice than just snapping
  20. Your torque figure doesn't seem to be very far off, 260 Nm (standard 300TDi for example) * 3.692 (R380 1st gear) * 3.54 (R&P you're using) = 3398 Nm at the winch. 4600ish Nm using a Series R&P (4.7 or something?). No clue about the clutch though, perhaps something like used in a Detroit?
  21. I've thought about making a panel with 5 or so USB ports. Should be easy to get some 5V voltage regulators, which you can find in the 1-1.5A range.
  22. There are two vacuum fittings, and a fitting for the IAV. A fitting for evap too (which you won't need). Can't recall anything else off the top of my head.
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