elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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Ah boo, that picture only contained one naughty word.
But here, I bleeped it out
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I can see that being a problem in the future. Downloading 'illegal' copies of copyrighted software is one thing, but imagine if you could pirate physical goods....no-one would ever pay for anything again!
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Can anybody suggest from experience a usb serial port adaptor that works with Megasquirt software? Some do, some don't. Since all the laptops I have with serial ports have issues I have do go down this route reluctantly and having a brand and model number does save time
Thanks
I have a Belkin F5U109 that worked perfectly with it, but not for a 64-bit OS though. W7 found the drivers automatically.
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I have a very lightweight VMWare virtual machine with XP on it for Microcat. Works quite well, although VMWare insists on syncing the time even when you turn off that feature
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The gauges look cool
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I wonder how well those'd work in X-Lites, could be interesting.
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There's a .5mm height difference between the two, so not exactly lethal, but I wouldn't keep it like that anyway. Get some more 235/70s.
The viscous coupling is most affected by this, and when ran a long time with different tyre heights it'll seize.
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The start of all of it.
Replaced it, new rockers and all. Did timing belt at the same time (*sigh*).
Then...:
And the culprit:
Somehow the cam pulley bolt came loose, resulting in the belt being loose and the valves hitting. I'm pretty sure I torqued it
Took the head off to inspect further damage, but all seems fine luckily.Third time's the charm?
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Quicker the second time around - sounds like a man speaking from experience.
Yeah, had it happen a few weeks ago...
Now I'm on to bigger problems. When a TDi doesn't feel like working, it really doesn't feel like working apparently.
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After tightening turn it around manually and recheck. Then you'll know what way you'll have to turn. And if it isn't a lot, the three bolts holding the pulley are in adjustable holes, so a bit of adjustement can be given that way without removing the belt.
Oh, and don't worry, if you've done it once the second time is so much quicker
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Sounds familiar
Your timing is one teeth off. Even when the timing pin is in, it'll still be one teeth off after tightening. So the trick is to set it wrong just right
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Does the LPG system have a pressure sensor? If so, wire the output of that to the MS switching pin. Just switch over to LPG, and when it's ready it'll tell MS to switch injectors.
(Disclaimer: as per usual I'm talking from the darkest hole in my body here.)
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http://forums.makezine.com/comments.php?DiscussionID=2819
The end of that page lists those you'll want to use: LM150-250-350.
Like this one: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/LM/LM350.html
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Late RRCs had them too, but it's offset differently.
I'm guessing the box sends a VSS signal once the gears have lined up. I don't know how proficient you are in electronics/microprocessors, but making your own 'ECU' for it in that case wouldn't be exactly rocket science - as long as the box isn't signalling the gear is in place, you keep rotating the motor.
Still pure speculation though, haven't had one to fiddle about with, although with all this talk about them it's tempting
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Nope, not wierd! I'd have Nulear because I believe its the future.
(I also work in the Nulear industry)Your c's broken
There are some new types of nuclear power plants under development that I wouldn't mind having in my back yard. From what I've read they're very safe, hardly produce any waste, and what they do produce can be largely recycled. The name of this new tech is escaping my brain atm though, I think it had something to do with tritium?
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I just got one of those cigarette lighter extension thingies with 3x lighter socket and 2xUSB, works very well and even came with its own sticky tape to stick it wherever you want. Cost me €12 or so in the local car accessory shop.
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Right, so... engine now turns around fine on the starter (disconnected glow plugs and reconnected them et voila
).BUT
She won't fire. Sounds like there's no (or very little) fuel when cranking. I'm 99% sure of the timing when I replaced the timing belt, and I don't really feel like taking it all apart to have a peek...
Disconnected #1 injector feed line, and it squirted fuel while cranking, but it was hard to tell if it was pressurised. We tried pulling her with another car to start, but the engine doesn't fire.
This all leads back to timing, but I lined up all the timing marks as descibed in the Rave and in the guide on this forum, used an 8.5mm drill as a timing pin on the injection pump, ... And the injection pump isn't really something you accidentally turn, so I don't see it having turned.
Suggestions please, before I resort to C4
Thanks in advance.
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I haven't wired anything like that, no. You do have a good point about the aligning of the input shaft, I completely forgot about that... I really need to stop giving advice in the morning
Yeah, you'll probably need the ECU then, unless there's an easy way to detect when it's in right.
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The motor can easily be turned with a battery and two wires, so no ECU needed. Depending on the rotation you want, you just switch the wires.
It should be fairly easy to wire a switch for this.
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I don't see it as a big problem, there's a ****ton of space left anyway. And they get narrowed near the wheels, so the axle mounts should be the same(ish).
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I measured it (albeit halfassed) and it was 100".
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See... I was thinking of doing the reverse (for legal reasons in Belgium). As far as I can tell, the body mounts may need to be changed, but the rest should somewhat fit.
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Probably, yes, but I can't remember even coming close to an earth wire in the process... I'll be sure to check them though.
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After being stood still for a week to put in a new rocker shaft and timing belt, my RRC refuses to start. The only thing electric I've touched in the process is disconnect the battery (yes, that's connected again now
) and replaced three out of four glow plugs (the person I'm not that keen on in the back didn't feel like coming out, so I just left it there).When cranking, the interior light dims and flickers, and you can hear the starter trying with a lot of effort, but nothing happens. It sounded like a dead battery at first, so we replaced the battery. Still nothing, so we used some jump leads - even less response.
The engine turned around fine manually when adjusting valve clearances, so quite a few turns happened then. All fluids were filled up before even turning manually.
The starter was still working fine before I put her in the shop, so I doubt that that's the problem, but I'm not excluding it.
Any ideas? I'm sure I cocked something up, but I can't even remotely see what
Took the head off to inspect further damage, but all seems fine luckily.
(I also work in the Nulear industry)
RRC steering wheel question
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Softdash had a black one.