elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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5 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
Have you seen the size of the boats that he tows around for work?! It'll be welcome for the break.
Around the yard is a bit different than on the motorway
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Looking good!
Did the 200TDi hop out, and smack you around the head with a "what the hell are you doing to me?" message?
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Impressive.
Let it soak in degreaser for a good while before you attempt to weld that?
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Did you manage to get all of the air out?
I'd expect it to at least want to run on 4 out of 6 cylinders, so if it doesn't I guess the timing could be wrong.
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2 hours ago, simonr said:
It's years since I even switched my Mill on - and I suspect it will be on eBay before too long!
Post it up here first, I might be mad enough to come get it for the right price...
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14 hours ago, russianfrog said:
So far, one little thing I find not good is the windscreen wipers with the spray attached to them. It doesn't clean well the windscreen and I really don't know what benefit it brings us
Oh, that's surprising. It actually works really well on my GLE. I like that it doesn't blind you with water while wiping.
But you may not want to see the cost of a new set of wiper blades...
Congrats on the Defender, when I see one pass by I still sometimes think "I should've just gotten one of those".
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4 hours ago, auto660 said:
@elbekko From what i've seen the trans got solenoids for regulating the shifts, but it also got an additional solenoid for the line pressure regulation and one for the lock-up it seems.
Ah, no, you're right. It just defaults to full pressure, and can be modulated from there.
Excerpt from the Range Rover RAVE manual about the operation and pinout of the box attached.
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Controlling the 4HP24E shouldn't be an issue, I've been considering doing the same with a Haltech. As Bowie said, it's just a few solenoids, IIRC line pressure and such is all regulated internally.
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34 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
this will give me problems as its too big to go into lathe also i dont have a cnc mill ( wouldn't be able to figure it out if i had)
Do you really need a lathe or CNC? The outside and inside can just be roughly bandsawed/..., and the hole locations can probably be done in multiple setups in the mill?
If it helps, I'm sure many people around here would be more than happy to make a drawing with offsets.
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Thanks.
It'll have to come off at some point for some better paint, we can weigh it then
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10 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Do you not think I have enough trouble with wiring, let alone sorting through that spaghetti..........
Regards Stephen
Tbf, most of that isn't wiring
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I tried. Everything is very twisted, I think it'd need a proper chassis rack to get it straight.
I managed to get it mostly ok by slotting the holes in the bumper.
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On 7/31/2023 at 10:28 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
What Bowie is saying is that you can give MS2 any offtset to work with - it doesn't mind where the missing tooth is.
Not quite, unless MS2 minds it less than MS1. With @Escape's build, we noticed it didn't like offsets ATDC, and had to offset the firing order.
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On 7/31/2023 at 4:06 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Given that LR are selling them as fast as they can make them, why would they make a high-volume cheaper model when they can flog 100k Range Rovers all day long?
Fleet emissions?
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On 7/29/2023 at 10:36 AM, ThreePointFive said:
So not really what you're asking for but I've found a good set of noise cancelling headphones work better than my actual ear defenders. They have the added benefit that you can use them for other household things and not look too weird.
The downside is the price, the upside is the quality of the music.
I don't think that's a good idea. I have a set of Sennheiser Momentum noise-cancelling over-ear headphones. I have to take them off when a helicopter flies low overhead (close to an airbase), or it'll give me a headache.
Noise cancelling works by sending opposite soundwaves out, so they cancel each other. So that's 2x the energy around your ears, although the sound waves should technically cancel out...
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12 hours ago, muzaz said:
Yup!!
Did you take it apart to check it out, grease proper sealing etc or you just used it as it came? Noticed a couple of screws on the gearbox end which were not fully tight and my hands are itching to open it up and have a look inside! 🫣
I took the gearbox off to clock it, and slightly modified the freespool lever to clock it 90 degrees. There were some seals there, can't remember any loose bolts. The freespool lever has a little seal on it, but also looked like it had an empty o-ring groove. But I couldn't immediately find one that fit.
All of that looked fine. Never got around to swapping out the grease, but probably should.
I did open the solenoid box, and saw it was a bit of a mess. But nothing too terrible. Could be I did tighten the cable glands a bit out of habit.
Time will tell if it's any good. I was half planning on using a set of Albrights anyway. And I have a 400A contactor in line with the winch so it's only powered when I turn it on.
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16 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Ha, you knew what you were doing..........giving me a drive of that infernal machine of yours.......lol
Regards Stephen
Good thing you didn't drive mine, or you'd be putting leather seats and air suspension in Sid
13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:R380 + 1.003:1 LT230, my axles are 5.99:1 overall ratio and the tyres are ~36" (they claim to be 37's).
If we're having the bun-fight over gearboxes my reasoning was that manuals are more "survivable", they can live with problems or abuse and be bodged in the field or nursed home, whereas autos rely on everything being just right or they won't play. Wrong oil, not enough oil, no oil, dirty oil, oil too hot = you're dead.
Plus it's one less cooler to plumb in, no kickdown to set up etc. and there's a big stick that lets me choose exactly what is going on.
There's definitely something to be said for that. The later electronic boxes are a bit less black magic, but still heavily rely on the oil being not chocolate milk.
A manual you flush out and it'll be good for another 100k.
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Looks identical to mine
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Well, that's going to be a fun thing
Looking forward to seeing Sid with the V8 in it next year as Summer Sisters.
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11 minutes ago, steve b said:
The engine has the correct number and rpm's so it will work....
Jag V12?
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P38 bags don't have thread, just a 6mm push-fit fitting.
Unless you went for Arnott Gen 2 bags?
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6 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:
Thinking just link the pair and have a T off to a schrader valve.
That could give some "interesting" on-road handling...
You'll want 4mm internal, 6mm external diameter nylon line. Use olive fittings if you don't want it to leak.
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11 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
I always think I can achieve more in a day than I actually can…anyone else get that?
Yup. Everything seems to take 2-3x as long as you think they should.
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48 minutes ago, Daan said:
The trouble with scanned surfaces is the shear size of them, and of the processing power required to spin the model like they do here. It also is not that accurate and consists of a cloud of points. I suspect things have moved on and there will be ways to turn them into surfaces, but whenever I was given scanned surfaces, they were pretty wonky, not straight basically. You always have to back it up with hand measurements in my experience. Good for scenery of your model, but not particularly reliable geometry.
It's only a small part, but he seems to manage to get pretty reliable measurements off it:
I tried some photogrammetry a while back when designing the little power strip to replace the ashtray in my P38. It worked ok to get a general idea of the curves necessary and such, but still needed a bunch of actual measurements, as you said.
Really good job on that exhaust!
P38 EAS faulty compressor?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Could be the thermal switch inside?