elbekko

And introduce stresses into the component, which isn't ideal in a high-flex environment such as airplanes.

Ah that's too bad, I was figuring more in the £4-500 range, considering what Turner is asking for a rebuilt one

At this point do you have enough of them to sell a few for core charge, and rebuild the best one with the proceeds?

Excellent news

Still ships from the US though.

Evidently ARP does some as well: https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=5300 I actually went to their site to check if they had any studs available for that application, as I'd expect that to be a better idea since the correct torque is so important? But there might not be enough room for that?

Will be interesting to see how you get on with the Range

I've been eyeing mills and lathes, but honestly don't really have anywhere to put them, and also don't feel like moving them 2000km when we move. But yes, I'd love to get into machining at some point...

I'll keep it in mind My girlfriend's brother is a machinist and tooling tester at Sandvik, could probably ask him for some machining help as well. I vaguely inquired about it before, and apparently it doesn't really matter how exactly the tools get tested, and what part comes out at the end He's just even further away than you are

Yeah, precisely. Just needs an adapter housing and potentially some sort of shaft extension. There are LT230s and gearboxes sitting at the workshop, should grab the 3D scanner and see what might be needed.

Absolutely, the P38 has rear radius arms, unit bearings, ... Far from a bolt in. The LT230 driven from the PTO is still mulling around in my mind, just haven't started with any sort of execution of the plan. A secondary issue is how to do the range & difflock shifting. The P38 centre console doesn't really have room for another shifter, maybe repurposing the current high/low motor and using a separate button for diff lock could work, but would need some more adaptation.

Some 2-component epoxy should do, but make sure that it can handle gear oil and a bit of heat.

Hope you get well soon!

I've done scans with ~3000 frames, but that's always with a laptop. I think the phone is limited to about a 1000, yes. Yeah, works fine, even with a laptop that doesn't do WiFi 6. So far I've mostly done high quality large scans in either geometry or texture mode. Then optimising with the highest resolution and mesh count. Last time I went scanning I stitched some scans together, that seemed to work very well! Does result in a huge mesh though. I haven't done anything in the past week with that last scan I took, should get around to it...

Protip: wear hearing protection when hammering. I'd say ask me how I know, but I wouldn't be able to hear the question.

It's a valid point, and my comment was rather tongue in cheek To be honest I have no preference either way, I never really got along with my 300TDi, and a Td5 sounds alright but has a lot of issues as you say. The entirety of the fuel system is a mess, basically. Heads/manifolds are mainly a symptom of power boxes and such I think? In a way a bit like a P38, too modern to be stupidly simple, yet too old to have the newfangled stuff properly figured out. If it was my car and I'd desperately want a diesel, I think I'd either go for a fully mechanical OM605/606, or something like the M57 where a lot of the common-rail diesel issues have been figured out. But neither of those options are in Mike's budget, sadly. So, erm, how about a nice 2.4 VM? Bolts up to the gearbox, and are dirt cheap because nobody wants them

I'm starting to see why you want something other than a 200TDi If a TD5 can be had for not much money and is easier to find spares for, then I'd say it's a no brainer. I agree with the others that you're buying a new unknown, but at least a new unknown that doesn't eat cams for breakfast Wish you were closer by, I'd happily lend a hand and a vehicle.

That cradle, a thick rubber mat, and then the tank would probably do a whole lot to support the mass of fuel. Are the spot welds getting pulled out vertically, or sheared off? Because it might not be the fuel sloshing breaking them, but the fuel bouncing up and down pulling them out.

Pics of that towing a boat required.

Ouch. I'm guessing just the lever giving out as per usual?

There are two that if you mix them, they coagulate and plug everything up, I'm guessing that's OAT and Glycol? Other than that, erm, the blue stuff?

Oh, I forgot to add. Yesterday I mainly used the scanner in this configuration: That's the included WiFi link, which I connected my laptop to. And then just used a Bluetooth mouse app on my phone to press start/pause. Way easier to swing around without being attached to a cable, but still all the processing power of a proper computer

Just how old do you think I am? That's just the style we have laying around at the workshop, I must admit I'm about 100x quicker reading a digital scale over a vernier, but I do know how to. And at least the vernier doesn't have a dead battery whenever you need it.

I did a bit more scanning today as I had some more time at the workshop. The scan spray works well, but you need to remember to put the scanner into texture mode, otherwise it doesn't help at all. Also did a quick measurement comparison: I'll take that.

I used some S355 for the winch cradle in my bumper, the numbers made it look very much worth it. And I noticed the difference drilling it...