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Posts posted by elbekko
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What we usually do is get the engine and gearbox somewhat aligned, and then put some long threaded rods into the bellhousing holes. This keeps everything aligned while trying to get the splines to engage, without the pressure of bolts.
Then usually you can push on the engine while rotating the crank and it'll pop in.
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None so far. Have been busy with other stuff like work and not melting in the heat.
Yesterday's workshop time was spent on fitting the roof tent to the Merc, and didn't feel like getting changed and doing welding afterwards. I'll probably try to spend some more time on this this weekend.
And it'll be without Filip's help, as he's at Graspop the next few days. After many years of going, I've decided it's no longer worth the back pain and huge crowds... but Filip is still crazy enough to go
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Nice write-up, interesting
14 minutes ago, Maverik said:That's quite the hot air intake.
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That's too bad. Might've been a good opportunity to have it looked over by a lot of experienced people... but I do get not wanting to drive a car you don't trust very far.
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15 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
The issue is parking it somewhere...
17 minutes ago, landroversforever said:When is it? Sadly I'm likely to be buried in house stuff..... hopefully not literally as we'll be putting in some structural steel shortly
Weekend of the 24th.
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Looking forward to the first year where I don't break anything now that I bring the car on a trailer
Will be good to see you, and everyone else, again.
It'll also be interesting to see how the dog reacts to off-roading...
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Yup, booked everything now. The ferry hurt
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1 hour ago, muddy said:
how about a cheap 1/4" drive UJ and extension with it poking out of the grill at about 30 degrees?
The thought had crossed my mind (I think it's Trail Mater that has a similar setup). But it would need two with the freespool pointing backwards.
But again, there shouldn't be any need anymore
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2 hours ago, dangerous doug said:
You can run 2 small ish cables on a pulley one going clockwise and the other anti clockwise and have the same on a remote handle for a push me pull you twisty twist if that helps. Would negate the need for a push/pull bowden cable and could probably do it out of something a bit smaller
Could do. But as said, the point is moot, as it looks like I'll be able to run the freespool lever as it is by cutting out the top plate.
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Dry fit of the winch in the cradle, looking pretty good:
Started tacking up the cradle to the bottom plate, using those washers as a 1.5mm spacer between the plates. Little bit of extra room for the winch + better weld penetration.
Fit it up, took a bit of persuasion, due to this:
Looks like the RH chassis leg is twisted and bent inwards a bit. There's a dent in the rad support crossmember just underneath there, I think that's putva bit of twist in the end of the chassis rail. Not sure what the best way would be of trying to fix that.
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Looks pretty decent. Could you fit those extensions with a pin for road use?
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32 minutes ago, Wytze said:
Is the wire sticking? Sometimes it help's to blow through the transport cable with compressed air.. Often there is dust in there after standing a while
No, the wire feed motor was broken. Would work perfectly, then start stuttering. I had cleaned it up, but still the same.
Fitted the AliExpress one now:
And I guess I can be happy with a weld like this:
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5 hours ago, bishbosh said:
I'd chop all the top plate away from the right hand side of the freespool hole to the left hand end of the drum when looking at the car from the front. Perhaps leave a 20mm "lip" along the front to stiffen the vertical face of the bumper.
Revisited this while staring at it together with my resident engineer.
Looks like it should indeed be possible to cut out the top plate at an angle from the winch mounting feet to the chassis plate. And then the freespool lever only needs a small notch to be able to sit where it sits now.
Plan coming together
And now, in the name of scope creep, see if I can get the damn welder to behave...
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Yeah, that looks like it'd work perfectly.
8 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:[edit]I'd say it's far simpler to machine this on a lathe if you have access to one. There's no reason why you really need the flat face - the only "difficult" bit would be drilling the entry port for the cable. I think the only addition you need is some method of fixing the housing to the winch body so that it doesn't rotate.
Agreed, but:
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34 minutes ago, bishbosh said:
I'd chop all the top plate away from the right hand side of the freespool hole to the left hand end of the drum when looking at the car from the front. Perhaps leave a 20mm "lip" along the front to stiffen the vertical face of the bumper.
Maybe, but that would take a lot of strength away in the line between the winch bolt holes and the chassis bolt holes. So I'd prefer not to.
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42 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
Why do you need them to go around 180°? What I was thinking was to machine up an outer sheath that sits over your pulley (in the diagram above) so guide the cable as you have done. That's presumably going to just be a lump of aluminium or something with a hole drilled in the centre of it so that it can fit.
Maybe this illustrates the idea - Bowden cable enters the right hand side hole on the vertical face (and can be suitably fixed somewhere near there), gets wrapped around the internal pulley and fixed on the left hand side where you can see a "dowel" hole going through vertically.
Would work best I think if the bowden cable is a tightish fit within the groove on the pulley so there's no room for it to wander off course.
180° because that's how far the lever needs to turn to operate the ring gear.
That's a nice design, should definitely work (if you can keep the crud out of it)! Looks like a job for a 3D print. If only I got along with mine...
4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:TBH, for 7S, would it be the worst thing to happen if you had no freespool?
Probably not, no. And worst case I can operate it by reaching into the back of the bumper (will be harder once the skid plate is on). But preferably not...
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12 minutes ago, Escape said:
Remember we tried a cable operated freespool on Mouse, and that let go in one of the mudholes at Inor...
Mostly because we bodged it together instead of using a proper Bowden cable kit, no?
13 minutes ago, Escape said:Don't forget any actuator will also need some space. You could clock the gearbox, so the actuator is on the back though. Just need a good way of routing the cable or whatever.
Yup, plenty of room behind the winch, with the gearbox clocked back in the "normal" position.
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Just now, Ed Poore said:
You can get push-pull bowden cables.
Yes, but can you have them go around 180 degrees? That would be the easiest way to adapt this without modifying the gearbox a lot, I think.
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Indeed.
I wonder if I can come up with some other way of doing that linear motion on the ring gear. Because it feels sort of silly to go linear -> rotary -> linear. Maybe just some sort of push/pull bowden cable that peeks out of the grille somewhere.
Damn feature creep, I don't have time for this!
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No, this one moves the ring gear with an offset pin on the end that goes in a groove on the ring gear.
Grease and Grease Guns
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
That's cheaper than I thought they were. If you're buying a new grease gun anyway, that's a no-brainer...