elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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3 hours ago, Venture4x4 said:
Oil - the auto gearbox was brown not the nice pink-ish colour of the new ATF
That may point to the oil having a bunch of water in it. Sadly that can lead to the oil pump burning up pretty quickly (as I sadly found out myself a few years ago). That would certainly cause the torque converter to slip, as there's not enough oil pressure for it to work properly, until the lockup is engaged.
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1 hour ago, Ed Poore said:
With the way trailer prices and demand are at the moment it is likely an option to buy one, do the job and sell it on for a profit. The danger is you realise how useful it is and don't sell it.
*looks at the box trailer on his driveway
It happens
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How "solid" do the shifts feel? I think that could point to either torque converter or oil pump.
Does it still go into lockup? And if so, does it feel better then? Maybe the "disengaging kickdown" behaviour you describe could point to that - taking your foot out of the throttle could allow the lockup to re-engage.How did the oil look that came out of the gearbox?
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On 4/23/2023 at 10:02 AM, Peaklander said:
That app has a review score of 2.6 and the 1* reviews I read make it sound rather flaky.
It takes some practice. But it does work well, if you know the frequency it should be set to. We've successfully used it (and in the past, guitar tuner apps) on a few Lotus engines, which spec tension in frequency.
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22 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
I think this issue is common across all dealerships. Many years ago I made the mistake of walking into a Mercedes dealership after phoning ahead about a car. The difference between first setting foot in the place to when they realised I was the "serious" buyer who had phoned was hilarious, the only reason I could think of was being aged under 30 at the time. I had come from work so was dressed appropriately..
It's funny. I've had similar experiences here and there, but mainly have been well-received. My local Mercedes dealership (which is a big reason I'm on my third Mercedes), has always been very good to me. My first experience with them was when I was picking out a second-hand C-class. My budget only allowed a German import, not one from their lot. But I wanted to be sure the seats wouldn't murder my back, so I phoned them up asking if they had one on their lot that I could sit in. No problem, come by. Of course when there we had a quick chat, and they realised they didn't have anything in my budget, but still let me sit in one of their cars. I then got that car from Germany, and convinced my boss to let me go that dealership for the maintenance.
A few years later I was going freelance, and looking at a new or recent second-hand car. Walked in, salesman still vaguely remembered me. Was happy to show me around their cars, and let me test drive a few. Had almost settled on the C-class coupé, when I saw the E-class coupé in the flesh. I went back straight from the Brussels auto show, made some terrible financial decisions, and ordered one before it was even officially presented. All of this while in my 20s, looking rather scruffy.
This salesman is now the sales manager at that dealership, and has recently sold me a brand new GLE with a nice discount, while buying back the E coupé at a bit over market value. I can walk into this dealership and everyone knows me by name. I don't think I'll buy another new Mercedes, but that has more to do with the cars than the dealership.
On the other hand, I was also looking at Jags and BMWs while going freelance. None of them were nearly as helpful or friendly. Most of them took a bit of convincing I was actually a serious buyer. If that E coupé hadn't been so damn pretty, maybe I would've had an XE or XF... but probably not, because the dealership sucked.
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As Bowie says, some cleaning up, especially on a machine that's been in metal dust since the early '80s, can do wonders.
I'd try mapping out the different circuits through the switch. When drawn out, it'll probably not be so complicated. Then you can either see about a fitting replacement switch, or if not possible, just have a bunch of toggle switches and a legend that you print out next to it for the different settings? Not idiot-proof, but that just means it needs one of these stickers.
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Many timing belts can also be set by frequency. Some manufacturers spec this instead of torque, even.
You can use an app like this to verify: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gates.carbondrivecalculator
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Colour me very jealous... no way you'd find that around here for that price
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Are you sure they're nylocks and not metal locks? They look similar.
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3 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said:
Appears to have been pulled by the moderators. How on earth do you get something banned on Reddit?!!
By not being relevant to the sub, probably.
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A bit like the Wagoneer and similar yank station wagons. Beautiful execution, but yeah, special is the word I'd use
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2 hours ago, Snagger said:
Are you trying an MLS gasket? I think they are better than composite, but there seems to be quite some debate on it.
If you do try MLS, then double check the oilway is in the right place. It was specifically brought up in a BritRest video, where he says the hole is in the right place for a 300 but not a 200, even though the gasket is supposedly correct for both types. I have one on my 200 and didn’t get a dry rocker space, but I can’t be 100% certain over the gasket being correct as I only heard of this recently.
I couldn't get MLS gaskets to seal properly on my 300TDi back in the day... composite worked fine.
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From the wiring diagram in the link you posted, it looks to me like the brown wire should connect to the Green/White wire?
As far as I understand the description, the blue wire is optional, and used for DRLs or something like that.
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Indeed, what Fridge said.
Sometimes you can get it to self-excite by revving it over 2000rpm, but just hooking up the light is more reliable
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
But not bloody charging though
Deep joy and happiness.....
Regards Stephen
Did you hook up the alternator warning light?
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Easy thing to try, that I usually do. After taking out the key, turn it 90 degrees and give the lock barrel a good poke. It should then pop up so it's slightly proud. Anything less might be keeping systems awake.
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You can always just hang a pickup hose into a jerrycan, there's no pump in the tank anyway. Then you eliminate a lot of unknowns.
Also definitely replace the fuel filter when it's had water in it.
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How much of said water was injected into the cylinders? Hopefully not enough to hydrolock and damage things.
That molten isolator and starter are scary. There must be something causing it to draw a ton of current.
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For my Mercedes, I ordered in January last year, car was built in July, arrived in Europe (American-built) in September, then stood around waiting for a truck driver until December.
So a bit of wait isn't unheard of these days, unfortunately. Apparently it's getting better again now.
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On 4/3/2023 at 11:00 PM, jeremy996 said:
I was a little startled to see on the Ineos portal that I have been sent my invoice for payment, no later than 2 days before handover. As the dealer cannot give me a delivery date yet, I will delay payment until I know when it is available for collection. I hope to hear from the dealer before the end of the week.
I had the invoice for my GLE in hand when I ordered it, to be paid before registration. It waited nicely for many months until the car was actually nearby
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You could try to find a GEMS manual flywheel, that has a 36-1 timing ring built in.
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Or send it back and tell them to improve their QC process. That looks unacceptable for a reman head to me.
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Are the Mog flanges cast? Could you build them up with weld and then bore them out?
OK, this is pretty slick (VR build tool)
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
That's really neat. I'd still manage to screw it up though.