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elbekko

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Everything posted by elbekko

  1. Good news. I'm impressed they got it that tight without stripping the threads out of the block. Maybe the bolt had some galvanic corrosion going on with the head?
  2. Mine only had 10 studs in it.
  3. I got my head stud set from V8Tuner a few weeks ago. Just make sure you use the online torque specs, not the included one as with mine it was an old set (with riskier higher specs).
  4. To verify that enough oil is coming up, take the rocker assembly apart (easy, just keep things in order) and look at how bad the wear is. If it doesn't look like it has run dry, all good. Cam depends on what you want the vehicle for. I've got a stump-puller in mine and still have plenty of top-end. 20 BHP up top is worthless if you're just putting about around 2000rpm all the time.
  5. I'd be taking the sump off and looking for bits of metal, and where said bits of metal have gone to. Hopefully just in the filter, but they could've travelled a whole lot and had an impact on bearings and such. "Easy" fix would be to just slap a new cam and tappets in (why would you bother regrinding when new ones are cheap?), run it in properly, flush the engine a few times, and hope for the best. The rockers will probably clean up just fine. The grittiness is a bit worrying, and might suggest that grime/metal shavings have plugged up some oil ports, that's much more worrying. For p
  6. That sounds sketchy... definitely sounds like engine out time. Or maybe just remove the engine mounts so you can drop the engine down a bit and maybe have room to drill out the bolt then? Hopefully there's enough meat left in the block to helicoil it after you get the bodged bolt out. Or thread the top of it and call it a stud
  7. Or the exhaust lobe for #3 is ground down. Seen that before. Especially after mixing up the lifters.
  8. Indeed. My fridge takes about 1.5A on average. Overnight that's still only ~15Ah. Not negligible, but also not an issue unless you're staying in the same spot for days on end. An electric heater will draw a whole lot more though.
  9. Yeah, that's strange. But also a fairly good marketing connection with Mercedes now they're sponsoring the F1 team (and the drivers were publicising the launch).
  10. That's what I did, worked well. Only issue is you have a small current constantly flowing, so get it from an ignition switched feed and it should be fine.
  11. No, as it's the wrong way around. You need some way to invert the signal.
  12. I think Mercedes is much more likely. And they don't care about grubby people coming into the commercial side of the dealerships.
  13. On a P38 they're secured with a pin on both ends. You can't really dislocate them, as they'll just pop apart from the internal pressure. So I'd go for safe and fix them. Or go for some strange hybrid like an X-spring above the bag 🤔
  14. There are websites that tell you the key code based on the VIN for a small fee. Or check that it's not written on the radio, mine has it written in sharpie on the top when you pop it out.
  15. Yes, as you need to be able to tighten all 4 bolts, so it needs spinning. A very small one. If too big, you're probably missing a spacer somewhere. 1mm or so, yes, wouldn't want the flex plate/crank to do the sliding.
  16. Could poke something through the access plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. But it shouldn't move.
  17. Did someone sell you two identical ones instead of a LH and RH one maybe?
  18. Fair enough, that does sound like the ECU. Worth a try for that price anyway.
  19. Did you check if it wasn't just not fully pressed into the hub? Could be as simple as it not picking up the reluctor ring consistently.
  20. I'll get it from him on a USB stick somewhere in the near future and put it on my webhosting with the other ones. Works fine for me...
  21. Between the 300TDi and the Td5 LR's recommendation changed from ATF Dexron IID to MTF94. Not sure why, since they're really not that different inside. If you really want a full synthetic with long life, and can't find MTF94, maybe the ATF is a better alternative? @ashtrans can probably answer this better too.
  22. So, just to confirm: #1 is right in line with the keyway. Not sure if there are any usable markings on the front cover at 45° though. But that should be easy enough to put on with a protractor.
  23. Yeah, that's what happens. As said, right-click the shortcut, properties, compatibility, select Win 98 from the list, ok, then try again.
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