elbekko

Tarmac (and thus I assume higher speed?) use will probably want a bit more pressure at those weights. My Merc GLE at similar weight and on 275/55R19 likes to be around 2.5 bar (empty) to 2.8 bar (loaded), and even 3+ bar (loaded + towing). My RR, bit lighter, on 265/70R16 likes 2.3 bar (empty) to 2.5 bar (loaded), and 2.8ish bar (loaded + towing). Even better than that is TPMS sensors with a temperature readout.

I didn't mind the writing. It's not a dry news article, it's a forum post in blog format. There are some interesting bits of insider info in there.

I have a feeling it may well have been, yes...

Not sure if it's worthy of an update yet or not. We continued yesterday. Hooked up the scope to the VR, and then the coil output, one by one. Wrote it down. It looked fine. Tried starting. Nothing. <insert despair> Go over everything again. Realise I wrote it down wrong. Realise wrong assumptions have been made from the start. <more despair> But there's a sliver of hope. What it comes down to, is that the MS definition of coil A, B, C, D isn't the same as the LR definition of said coils. And for some reason we never realised this, and just kept talking about coil letters, not cylinder numbers. The result is that MS is firing order ABCD, but as the LR coils are they should go ADCB. We'll have a stiff drink, rewire, revalidate, have another stiff drink, and try starting again. The mindf*ck isn't improved by the MS having output B&C swapped internally, the wiring loom going GEMS -> GEMS to Bosch coils adapter -> Bosch coils. But we'll get there.

Absolutely, but as you know it's not a simple on/off either. That was my initial motivation for looking into Haltech engine management, as they can do gearbox control. But they warn that they haven't run it on a 4HP24E yet, so tuning is up to the user. If you can just talk to the original ECU instead, you don't have to worry about replicating thousands of hours of OEM development time... That seems like a solid approach, and indeed similar to what I've been meaning to do. Just haven't gotten around to actually doing it...

Precisely. And sadly reverse engineering this stuff is what scares off a lot of people - me half included. I've been meaning to do it for ages, but haven't gotten around to it. And I wouldn't be surprised if JLR goes after people sharing that info either, even if they reverse engineered it themselves... Years ago I reverse-engineered the radio to CD changer communication (BMW IBus), which already had a bit of open-source documentation. I never got that to work reliably, even though it should've been stupidly simple. It would randomly stop communicating, probably because there was some secret handshake that I hadn't seen in the logs. And that was a simple protocol with a dozen messages that are all triggered by buttons. Reverse engineering ECM to gearbox communication will most likely be a lot more involved, although hopefully in '99 it wasn't so bad yet. The VW @AlWorms built is most likely a lot easier because VW is very modular, and it all speaks largely the same language - so it's more convincing the modules that they *want* to talk to each other, not as much *how* they talk to each other.

Well, the Merc I'm not really messing around with CANbus stuff, just want to program some options in the modules so maybe it'll tiddle me off less often But even for the P38, there's barely any information available on the CAN messages between the Motronic and ZF gearbox. Maybe I haven't searched enough, or correctly. Even the incorrect-answers-machine doesn't pretend to know:

Yes and no. I've been going through sort of this with the Mercedes. Everything is available on the interwebs (mainly MHHauto), you just need to figure it out, and trawl through the millions of people that say "pm me, I can do it for you for money". No thanks, that's not what I want to do. But on the flipside, I did manage to get talking to it with a €180 Tactrix OpenPort, and a €30 "donation" to get access to MHHauto to obtain all the software. The biggest issue is that all the information is closely guarded, and nobody wants to properly document any of it. There are some libraries of known CAN messages and such, but they're very limited. If that wasn't the case, it would be very simple to integrate CAN systems.

I was happy with the EBCs on my Classic, I think on the P38 I've just been running the stock stuff, which also work well enough considering the rest of the system needs a bit of work. I'm not sure you'll notice much difference between the good brands. Your limits will be overall system pressure, piston size and disc heat capacity. A while back I posted about the iBooster, an electric brake booster that apparently gives a lot of assist. That might be worth looking into?

But it is running...? All a bit strange really. Could be it's not wanting to go into gear because the brake isn't seen as pressed. Try to keep mashing the brake pedal until the message goes away, in case it's a bad connection inside the brake switch?

Nothing on the dash either? I'd think the gear position sensor is dead then, no clue how easy that would be to reach on the side of the road.

Fusion 360 has a free for personal use option. It'll take a steep learning curve to make that part, but shouldn't be too difficult I think? Or throw up some measurements on here, and I'm sure someone will be bored enough to help at some point.

Reeks of IP issues, indeed.

I hope the freeze plugs popping out is all that happened, my 300TDi didn't like freezing and cracked the block...

That's nice. Reminds me of some of the old PistonHeads builds.

You could probably start selling those and bring in some pennies towards petrol for Sid

Just the sound insulating mats alone will sag the suspension a good bit.

Interesting analysis of the winch rings:

Indeed. And surprisingly cheap at Farnell, should've gotten it ages ago! Takes a bit of a learning curve though.

Made some progress yesterday Solved that issue And then had a look at the VR output: So that at least confirmed the VR is good. Now, the MegaManual is confusing as hell, here. But if we're reading it correctly, the ECU can basically be wired internally to either look at the rising or falling edge, and thus even though you wire + to +, it can still depend on the ECU/VR combo if it's looking at the correct side of the signal and seeing a double gap or not. Anyway, cut the wires for the VR, swapped them, and now we seem to be getting a much more consistent trigger log. Forgot to take a picture, but consistently 35 tooth gaps now. Next up will be verifying the coil timing again, but it got a bit too late for that yesterday. Getting closer.

It was fun! Maybe lay off the St Bernardus if you're seeing people in pink tutus

And did that as well now, works perfectly fine even on Android 14. Just need to make sure you pair with the device, that doesn't seem to work from the app. The code in the APK is hard to read Might have to do some snooping of communication...

Looks like the Lynx is now called the Atlantic British iLAND, as discovered here:

Just received Steve's Lynx. Interestingly, when scanning the QR code for the app that's on the package, it downloads the app for the Atlantic British iLAND: https://www.roverparts.com/diagnostics/comprehensive-diagnostic-systems/ILANDV2/ Which appears to be the Lynx rebadged. Haven't tried hooking it up to the car yet, but will soon. And will probably open up the APK and have a peek at how it works...

Not in, but rather close yes I'm in Boutersem, @Escape is in Holsbeek, both about 30-45 minutes away not far from the Liège-Brussels E40 highway.