elbekko

Having an initial peek at the application. Lots of .NET assemblies. OmniTec is promising, as they're the ones that made T4 as well: That config file has some interesting looking stuff in it: Looking at the referenced classes, also very interesting: So maybe with changing a few settings we can get it to use a PassThru connection (aka the OpenPort 2.0) instead of the Lynx hardware (which apparently goes over FTDI)? Promising More poking around shall be done...

Always reminds me of driving home from Seven Sisters with a mate, he was half asleep in the passenger seat. He looks over at the car next to us, and suddenly panics "WHY IS THAT DRIVER PLAYING ON A GAMEBOY?!" until he realises we're in the UK, and that was in fact the passenger

Only the EAS is on different pins, the ECM/ABS/... is all multiplexed on the standard OBD pins (otherwise things like the Biltema tool and ELM327 adapters wouldn't be able to do anything). I think it's purely a software issue that'll take some figuring out

I'm currently in the process of being able to talk to my Mercedes using Xentry/Vediamo so I can hopefully code out some annoying "features". For this I've bought a Tactrix Openport 2.0 VCI. But of course I'm thinking about Land Rovers as well, and it struck me that the Britpart Lynx hardware is basically just a VCI - and it talks to my P38. So now I'm wondering if I can't just get its software (which is freely available) to talk to my hardware I gave it a quick go, but of course it wasn't as simple as just plugging things in, so I'm going to have to dig into the software a bit. Luckily it's all .NET (my wheelhouse), and easily decompilable (even though they've obfuscated it a bit). Anyone that has attempted this before that can give some tips? Otherwise this thread shall serve as a reminder that I want to do this, and a log of my attempts

I've only had the displeasure of one 3mm kidney stone, and I'm not jumping at the chance to get another one, I'll tell you that. The look of the A&E nurse when I told her I hadn't taken any painkillers was priceless though...

That's probably wise for a final install, indeed, good advice that I've read before (stacking a switch-mode and linear regulator).

True, it should be at least four

The board I grabbed has a 7-15V input with regulator, I hope that'll be good enough. It can also take power off USB-C, so that's another easy way to get cleanish power in there. https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/4/5/f/c/2/SparkFun_IoT_RedBoard-ESP32_Schematic_v10.pdf As for the GPIO part... CAN seems fairly resilient, and the ESP32/nanoFramework has filtering and debounce built in. We'll see if it's good enough with 8 sparky things.

Freelanders are transverse, no? An M57 would stick out the side a bit

Could it work to turn it around? Designate a few areas that are OK, with clear entry an exit routes, a bit like a P&P site but within the arena. The issue remains that it needs to be mapped out and policed, though, which is pretty much impossible. Either way nothing is going to happen without the people at Walter's Arena being willing to entertain the idea again. So probably better to focus our efforts into finding other sites instead of pointing fingers at each other. The tyre size/pattern discussion is pretty much akin to the "anyone faster than me is a maniac" mindset IMO.

Nope, I just programmed it over USB. In about an hour of fiddling around I had it connected to my WiFi and communicating with an API (just playing around). Agreed. I read up a bit on CAN recently, and it's beautifully simple really. No need for a clock signal, built in concurrency handling, ... The ESP32 will natively do the CAN protocol, but needs a bit of extra hardware to actually connect to the CAN lines. One of the main upsides of the ESP32 that I've found is that all the GPIO pins can do anything. PWM, I2C, CAN, ... just enable it on the pin and it'll do it. And a bunch of concurrent threads as well, apparently. My goal for the CAN is a bit different, as I want to integrate with existing systems that speak CAN.

Now look at what you made me do! (And since it came with a broken button, the shop is sending a second one as well )

Yeah, about that. And a bit of traffic chaos into Wales...

That does sound fun. And for us no harder to get to the Seven Sisters

They certainly list is as an option: https://www.carlingtech.com/rocker-switches-v-series-iv-v https://yourcomponents.com/en-be/products/vkd2uhtb-00000-000?_pos=16&_fid=56ddde031&_ss=c

Absolutely too bad. Honestly, I just wrote a whole text here about not being aware of such a rule - but obviously it's clearly written on the site map, so that's just my memory. I can only hope we did follow that rule. A big issue with that site, though, is that you can enter a track, not knowing where it will lead. So at some point you might inadvertently end up on the side of a main track, just because there's already a track there. Realistically the only fix for that is to explicitly mark which tracks are ok to use - and that's a ludicrously large job. I hope we can find a different, similar site. It's very much worth coming over for, and in a beautiful area to boot.

Oh no, that's too bad

Managed to find one so far, also a stupid looking tyre sadly: https://www.pneus.be/nl/nitto-mud-grappler-37x13.50-r20-121p--2793602 Nothing bigger than that yet, unless Ag stuff. Might also be worth searching in metric? 40x13.5R20 is about 345/75R20.

Can't recall anything other than the BeCM SID document: http://rave.stringsandints.com/BECM SID CONSOL.doc Overall that BeCM looks very clean. Mine looked a damn sight worse after that Welsh creek Contact cleaner and a paintbrush and toothbrush are your friends for cleaning. I think one of the main things the recon companies do is replacing old capacitors. Might be worth a try as well, shouldn't be that hard to DIY. As for swapping only the power board, I think that's definitely worth a try!

<insert link to my post in last year's thread>

That's what happens when you let Filip tell you where to go Be ever wary of the words "that looks like a shortcut".

You need the charge light to get yoyr alternator excited.

You're more than welcome wherever we are by then

Strange that it shows no errors. The TC lighy blinking would point to it activating, same with the veering to one side. I'd be checking the wheel speed sensors first.

Working on it. But haven't found a house yet.