GT6Steve

FF wanted 64 Pounds a pair, obviously I don't know about shipping...

Anybody got friends over at Famous Four? Do I have to freakin BEG to get my order request responded to?? Must be incredibly nice to have such a good business as to throw away custom. Since their phone number doesn't work could anybody give them a ring and tell them to read their damned E-mail? I've tried to call them several times today and get a wrong number.

I'll stick a piece of fuel line into the plug hole and blow to see if the cylinder will hold pressure, as in both valves closed.

Ya know, I've not yet got a response from Famous Fours. Is that typical cuz they're busy and I should be patient or is that indicitive of their customer support? The above comments made me ready to order but now I find myself drawing back. You guys know them better than I, am I being too suspicious? BTW, Sunny Las Vegas is now a dust bowl with 60 MPH winds lifting every free bit of soil into the air. Sadly the storm has no moisture for this end of the desert....

Thanx for that, I've sent an E-mail enquiring. Price seems OK but I was a bit worried about the "heavy Duty" connotation. If it's just marketing blather I'll order them for a trial.

Greetings from sunny Las Vegas, My question is pretty much the opposite of anything I see you guys doing but this is where the experts are found. I want to lower my 91 RRC by a couple of inches. It is driven only on Motorways and usually at 85 MPH. A couple inches lower will make it easier for the wife and dogs to board and likely improve stability. I'm not particularly enthusiastic about simply cutting the springs as I'd like to keep them to put back in if required. Spares aren't common over here. Any suggestions for shorter replacements? Thanx in advance, Steve

An interesting twist on the new motor breakin period. Driving it to work and back early uin the week it started to develop a low idle and severe bog off the line. This was after a twenty minute period of 3500 RPM motorway run. I'm pondering which sensor could be breaking down until the final day it wouldn't run at any idle period. I had to get the revs up to move making the last three miles home a bit high strung. At home, the first thing I did was pop off the dizzy cap, I don't know why. The rotor brass fell out and the rivet for it was caught in the three screws releif on the spark cover. WTF?? I put in an old Lucas rotor and it's now running sweetly. Well, but for a major oil leak on the front cover somewhere, GAWD, I hope that's just a loose bolt...

With all that time with Landies you'll be horrified or pleased to hear of the perfect RRC shell I took the distributor from at this desert breakers yard. It was so clean I even thought about it. All the suspension is gone. Sad really. All that beautiful alloy work going to be crushed as if it were a Chrysler or Chevy...

I've got a hardback Haynes that I found in some Highstreet market for pennies. Just what it's worth. I'd give it to you if we were closer. At the other extreme I have a photocopy of the factory manual that I paid way too much for. I LOVE it! The pain of the ripoff is long gone but I always find the answer in that 100cm volume. The Haynes does have electrical diagrams so it may suffice . Only covers petrol models though, maybe why it was so cheap? Don't you guys have mostly diesel models?

Where did you find that parts manual? Is it available online? That has to be useful...

Thanx for that. I'd looked and not seen anything. Just hoping...

Can the steering column be adjusted on the 90 RRC so as to get the wheel closer to the driver? I know a lot of cars have slots in the mounts or a collapsible column. Is there any adjustment room in these? Thanx in advance, Steve

Yeah Fred that's me. Spun bearing King

Thanx for that tip RR, I'd pondered such a thing but didn't follow up on it. Last Monday I dug into it with the new module, entirely confident it would run. Not to be! I spent about four hours going over it feeling dumber with each passing moment. I thought I understood a Kettering ignition... In the end I determined it HAD to be the reluctor in the dizzy even though it seemed fine on the bench. So, off to the breakers where I gave up another 125 Dollars for a used dissy from the only RR he had. Put it in and it sparked but I'd run out of time to adjust it until this morning. Brought it to top dead center, confirmed the number one hole was airtight and dropped the thing into position. And it ran! So now it's in front of the shop instead at the bottom of the drive and I can time it properly and tighten it down. Thanx for all the help. BTW, I scattered the engine in the racer last weekend whilst leading. One lap from the finish.

I remember living a few years in the Pacific Northwest US with rivers. The Chevy truck would go happily thru any river with the water over the hood because the dizzy was at the back. Fords (or Dodges, can't remember) would fail because the fan started flinging water onto the front mounted dizzy. I've ridden thru rivers where we had to roll the windows up quick to keep the water out in my friends Chevy pickup. I also remember abandoning that same truck and shivering for about six hours on the time he didn't make it! We finally got a fire going just in time for a logging truck to come by and give us a ride!! This desert boy learnt a lot in those three years in North Idaho

Sounds great! You seemed to acclerate for the river crossing? Was that just for fun or a technique? I'd have thought you'd have crept to keep water from splashing the dizzy? Waterproofed electrics?

I just went thru a similar trial and ordered a new ignition module. To test all the electrical just disconnect the two ignition module wires at the coil and momentarily earth the negative lead at the coil. Every time you lift the earth there should be a spark at the coil wire. You'll pull it out of the cap and hold the lead near an earth point for the arc to jump to but I'm sure you know that... All the ignition coil is doing , like points, is to earth that negative lead at the appropriate time to spark the plug.

I'm not surprised by any of that. I've got Triumph parts laying about the same way. RR's are relatively rare around here. The breakers have a complete dizzy for about the same price but I'm sure it will be the three wire as well. In fairness, I've had the truck since 93 and have bought an alternator and a brake pump. Oh, and a window switch. I'm not complaining... And an engine rebuild

Do these things ever eat thrust bearings? Could the flywheel be moving enough to contact the starter? Does the ring gear show any damage? Trans is tight to the block right?

Appears to be the module as predicted. When cranking the voltage comes up to about .4 volts. I'd expect more... New one is on order with a two wire to three wire adapter link. Apparently the two wire modules are NLA. Cost is $150 so about 80 quid? Adapter cable cost near as much as the module

Thanx guys, first thing in the morning I'll be on it. It was such a sudden cut and recovery I support the notion that it's ignition, or want of. I've also noticed the only earths I have are the cluster of small black wires on the left side head. Offside right? I'll get a ground, earth, going and then have a look at the distributor module after I confirm a lack of spark. Or not. twelve hours from now we'll move forward. Really appreciate you all pitchin' in to help a Rover that won't be in any damn rivers ;-))

Well Hell! It was running great all weekend. I thought I'd be bold and try to take it to work on Tuesday morning. A 23 mile high speed motorway commute which would help seat the rings. I got about two miles from the house and it died at a stoplight. 5:00 AM it's not too terrible but still a nuisance. After awhile it started so I beat feet back for home and made it to the closed front gate where it died again. I opened the gate, started and lurched thru when it died and has not yet restarted to this time. ARE THESE GREAT CARS OR WHAT? The poor ol' girl had the honour to not be seen on the streets as a nonrunner. Go figure. (heretofore, it's always broken down in front of the Pub)?? So now I've gotta see if it's getting any spark, as it acts lacking or if there's an injector issue. I'm also suspicious of grounds (earth) as I had two flat leads left over with no idea where they go. Life's always an adventure Eh? BTW, We're going racing next weekend so this may fall to the backburner...

We drove it all around today with the hellhounds barking every moment. They're much happier than I to have their car back. I used it early on to move the race trailer around for cleaning and loading for the next race. It is really impressive after driving it for who knows how long with the bad cam. It starts and runs sweetly, pulls off the corners well and just generally seems happy. I haven't set the timing yet. I twist the dizzy looking for the sweet spot and pretty soon the engine follows. I assume the computer is compensating? I'll have to get the book out and find how to get the midpoint for the timing. At the mo I'm pretty damned happy with the rebuild. Many thanx for all the expert advice offered on this forum! Next time I see a river or mudbog, who know's?? I'm gonna drive around it

WOOHOO! a pretty damn smooth startup this afternoon! I had to reverse the dizzy and then it fired happily. Remarkably well I must say. Rings are blowing by forcing oil out of the dipstick. I saw a drip on the right side to explore but all seems good so far. Had the lovely bride hold the throttle at 2000 (sort of) whilst I watched and nothing alarminfg appeared. This rebuild may be worthy of jumping the curbs at the local casinos. ;_))

For what small consolation I've been dealing with a similar issue on the 90 RRC for many years. After changing the pump I could never get it bled properly to eliminate that initial pressure drop that turned on the light. Brakes worked fine though. Just a pissant bubble somewhere I can't seem to remove. Ten years later, a second pump replacement and still to this day I have the dash light. I long ago learnt to ignore most of my dash indicators. Brakes work, fuel system works, etc. Fuel light is always a pressure problem from the insane underhood temps of the Mojave desert...