Timpo

That's my next move.... ;-)

Looking to replace a damaged right-hand wing on my 2006 Defender Td5, and it appears there are a plethora of part numbers for the same items.... as usual! :-D As you well know, the wings are in three main parts, inner, outer and front (headlight) panel. I have a part number for the inner and front panel complete, ASB710200 but when I did a search, I get ALR9936 being shown from some of the suppliers. I also need the inner arch shield, (plastic on my vehicle), again I have a number AWJ710380, but that comes back superseded by AWJ710430, which when I put that back into a search comes out as a Puma arch shield, so has moulding differences. Don't make it easy do they....lol. Any tips will be appreciated. T.

This thread is of great help..... I'll just put a post on it so I can find it later. :-D Timpo.

I have a KAM460 locker to fit to the rear axle of my 2006 Defender TD5 110. I want to keep the original diff unit complete as a spare so need a donor diff unit to build the locker into. There are plenty of P38 two-pin diffs knocking about (on ebay for example), and seems I only need the housing casting, the crownwheel and the pinion, is there any reason why I can not use one of these diffs to build my locker into? The front and rear P38 diffs are the same aren't they? Any information will be gratefully received... Timpo. http://www.kamdiffs.com/shop/kam450/

OK, thanks, done all that just apart from linking the two coolant hoses together after the cooler was removed. I want to do a decent job so planning to get a proper hose adaptor tomorrow to join the two different diameter hoses together.

So, as many a person has done, wanting to reduce motorway engine speeds, I have purchased a Disco TD5 transferbox (that has centre difflock facility) to fit into my 2006 Defender TD5. I'm just having a look under the vehicle before starting the job in the next few days, I notice the Defender box has a transducer connection behind the handbrake backplate, which I take as the speedo. The Disco box I have has only a rough cast pilot hole, no machined hole into the internal drive gears at all. What are my options please? I am guessing remove the rear output drive housing of the Disco unit and swap this with my original Defender housing? This will be mixing up parts of the two centre diffs, no issues there I hope? Any info or tips will be gratefully received.... Cheers. Timpo.

So my EGR removal kit has arrived, and just before I fit it, I'm here to ask about removing the egr cooler and the vac servo that runs the actuator on the doomed egr valve. Also, I am thinking to blank off the water hoses to the cooler, is there any pitfalls in doing this? Is it worth purchasing hoses from a 'non cooler' type TD5 Defender? I'm not keen on having redundant stuff under the bonnet, if it's not needed, I want to get rid. Any info or tips will be gratefully received.....cheers. Timpo.

Thanks. I will offer the lining up, and I can cut/fold brackets here in aluminium if needed. Timpo.

Ok thanks. I will see if I can find some pics of such brackets. Cheers.

Nice.

I'm wanting to warm the rear of my 110 2-door hardtop up and stop the drips of condensation. So, I have purchased a 110 County SW head lining. Those who have fitted similar, were you happy just putting the head lining straight in or did you wish you had done it a different way, maybe extra insulation pads bonded to the roof etc? I'm also toying with fitting two alpine rood windows, I'm hoping there is a kit available with a template to cut the roof section out the correct size and in the correct place to suit the lining. Any tips or hints will be gratefully received.... Cheers. Timpo.

I thought about a set of Wolfies, but opted against it, 6.5J width did limit the tyre selection to 235/85. So I took the Modular route, cheap as chips, and a 7J rim, so I have a set of Toyo Open County tyres fitted to five rims here, 255/85 giving a 33.4" diameter. If I damage a where, no problem, bin it and replace with new. This will save my 265/75-16 ZU alloys/BFG AT2 for road work.

You will never have enough storage space..... I gave up looking! ;-)

Bearmach are listing an 'OEM quality' affair for £25-£30 mark.....

Having had a 300TDi before I ventured into Discovery2 ownership, life was easy, the old 300 lump plodding away all day long, she never missed a beat! The Disco2, erm.....electrickery everywhere and an oily injector loom, that I promptly sorted with a new harness from ebay, about £30 iirc.... The Disco died recently when mateyboy-across-the-road's handbrake came off his Toyota and the chunk hit Disco in the side, writing it off!! So, I'm back into Defender ownership now, with a lovely 110 TD5, late 2006 model, and I love it..... But feckity-feck, yesterday I was putting a silicon hose kit on the bird, and notice 'oily-damp' around the injector loom plug..... Well, I have never seen anything like it, absolutely soaked with oil was the plug, to the point that it'hydrauliced' when I tried to unplug it.... So, I will again purchase an internal injector loom, but I'm thinking about the engine bay loom, could it be 'as bad' as it looked? reading horror stories of oil worming it's way to the ECU....WTF!!!! Am I being paranoid? Will just the injector loom be enough.....? The truck runs great, not a sound out of the lump, but with only 50k miles, i wouldn't expect anything less... What do you reckon folks....£30 loom from ebay and carry on regardless?? Timpo.

http://www.lacoupole-france.co.uk/ http://www.v2rocket.com/start/deployment/watten.html

I've done a few that I planned myself.....it is not as difficult as you think. Some trips I did with my motorcycles, some with my 90, camping or using cheap hotels. As daft as it sounds, you can use the films as a guide, for example, Saving Private Ryan, The Band Of Borthers and The Longest day. I found the best way was to do it in chronological order, so if concentrating on the Normandy Landings, then 5th June 1944 you need to go look at Pegasus Bridge and have a brew in Cafe Gondree, being the first building to be liberated in the landings. Then 6th June 1944, all hell breaks lose, so you have all the beach heads along the coast from Caen to Cherbourg, miles and miles of beach with many machinegun posts and Atlantic Wall sites along there. Then there are the big gun batteries, Batterie Todt being the most spectaular remaining bunker in France. There is also a trail called the Voie de La Liberte, Liberty Road, marked every kilometer by markers posts called 'Borne' from near Utah Beach to Bastogne, Belgium. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liberty_Road_%28France%29 There are numerous cemetries, La cambe and Orglandes are large Nazi sites, and the large American cemetry near Colleville-sur-Mer is a must-see. So, once you have been ,you will want to return over and over again, finding more and more info on other sites to see in the area.

Bending the LR arms sounds favorite. Make a jig and plenty of oxy/propane heat and a bit of hydrailic power, what could possibly go wrong......

'Measure 20 times and cut once....' LOL, I like that.....would make a good teeshirt print! ;-) Cheers, I'll take a look at your like whilst over a brew.....

I've got a full external cage on order with Safety Devices, and before I start butchering anything, I thought I'd best ask the masses for tips or advice, as not wanting to make any errors. I know it's just meccano but you can never be too careful, especially when drilling body panels, etc....

I got plans for the future to rebuild my 110 on to a Marsland galvanised chassis, and I am wondering how you get round having the new chassis carry the same chassis number as the V5 for the vehicle? No doubt there are scores of folk on here who have carried out a rebuild like this, can you please tell me how to sort the ID of the new chassis out to suit my DVLA papers. Thanks. Timpo.

Interesting thread, as I have the same issue at present. My 110 looks like a dragster, the front is sagging and the rear sitting right up. The truck carrys little load in the rear, though the front has a winch and bumper plus guards, etc and is lower than I like. With the truck on the floor, the nearside spring length is 9", the offsise is 9.5", that make the front 2.25" lower than the rear, measuring the floor to top of wheelarch at the wheel centre. So I guess I'm looking for a loaded spring length of around 11", does that sound about right to the masses here? And if it does, and you have this loaded spring length, what spring combination have you on the front? I take it you have similar front mounted equipment....

The Discovery jack is stored in the vehicle on it's side.

Why will you need to lift the vehicle? For maintenance tasks, usually the vehicle will be at home, so a trolley jack of 2t capacity is best. And always use axle stands before going under a raised vehicle. For emergency tyre replacement, the Discovery 2 bottle jack as mentioned is perfect, use with chocks and/or your centre difflock engaged. For self recovery and general lifting in the field, a 48-inch farm jack, aka hi-lift jack is the best option as you can not always get under the vehicle to place the jack in a lift position on the axles. This type of jack can be used directly on the rear crossmember but is at it's safest when used with an adaptor that mounts in the holes on the chassis end at the front and rear of the Defender. Jackable sills also have suitable holes to take such an adaptor.

I got a half decent Disco2 here, it's approaching 200.000 miles and the engine could be getting tired. The chassis is excellent and the transmission and running gear sound. Have you seen, done or know of engine swaps where other lumps thatn that of Land Rover's own have been fitted, diesels only please..... Any pics, stories or links to info will be gratefully received. Timpo,