Huff

Hi all. I am going to put a 3.5l v8 engine into my 88" series (some of you may have seen the other thread on the series forum about making a bit of a mad mean machine but it would mean chassis cutting) Anyway. I am going with the 3.5 because I am not going to need any bigger and I understand it to be the strongest engine? I fully intend to squirt it (looking to buy one of the kits that come with the Megasquit unit built up with the EDIS8 kit) and I want to LPG it. So what do I need? I understand that I will need a set up with switch-able maps for the LPG/Petrol side? But what about on the engine itself? I am looking at 3.5l EFI engines on ebay, I haven't decided on who's LPG kit I am going to buy yet but does it come with a second set of injectors or does it just use the something attached to the throttle body (similar to LPG to carburettors?) I have gleaned a few pointers for various bits but I just guess I need someone to tell me how it all fits together. If anyone can help me with this? Thanks N

Hey gents, Sorry I haven't been back sooner. Thanks for all your suggestions. I have measured and looked into this a bit further. Looks like if I start to do any of the mods I will end up loosing the vehicles ID including getting it SVA'd etc... D'oH Ah well. What I will look to do is to put a 3.5 or 3.9 onto the standard gearbox (Squirted of course!!) and just run it as standard. However the agricultural mean machine still sounds tempting :-). I will have to contend to let my mate drive his type R like a loon (like spending money on tyres by leaving it all over the carpark!!) I did however challenge him to a tug-of-war.... For some strange reason he bulked at the idea?!? Can't understand why... Thanks anyway guys. N

Hi all. I PM'ed Fridgefreezer to ask him about his mods and he gave me a few pointers and suggested that I post here to see if anyone else has any ideas. I currently have a Series 3 88" that is the worse for wear (currently in bits around my garage) I am treating it to a new chassis from Richards and a rebuilt galv bulkhead. Basically I want to annoy the Honda VTEC owners at work by taking them at the lights. So I am looking to drop a V8 lump (4.6l sounds nice) connected to a R380 and LT230. The engine will be Megasquirted and LPG'ed. I understand that I need to modify the chassis to take this. I emailed Richards (telling them to hold my order while I get my head around what needs doing) to see if they can modify a chassis to suit this mod. They said they can send it off to someone to do the relevant mods but I will get an price at some point when the guy is back to work... Firstly has anyone had any dealings with doing this. e.g buying a chassis pre-modified? Also if I modify a chassis with different engine/gearbox mounts (or buy one pre-modified) will I incur the wrath of the DVLA for a non standard replacement chassis? (trying to keep the points below 8) As I will be putting stupid quantities of horses down to the ground I will also need to look at the axles. I am guessing the standard series axles just wont cut it. Is there any way to strengthen them up or should I look around for something better? I was thinking of putting disco/RR axles on but that involves a lot of cutting and welding to take the leaf spring mounts. Is there any other suggestions? Preferably something that can bolt on with relative ease. (if it needs chopping and modifying, it is probably more worthwhile to do that to other landrover based axles.) Why am I defiling an innocent series 3 and why shouldn't I just buy a Defender?? I happen to like series land rovers. And I like the idea of making something that looks agricultural and should be on a farm to go like a stink! :-) Anyway guys, Thanks in advance! Nick

Sorry to bump this thread. I have a series III with serious corrosion on the same panels where the seatbox and 'seatbelt lower bracket' mounted. (all I wanted to do was change over the gear box!) Does anyone know if anyone is to manufacturer these. Or is the defender and series type identical? Thanks N

Ok scrap all that I found the code stamped on the top casting 90123117 A So it is an A suffix g/box but it is fitted to a late landy... hmmmmmm I thought the A suffix g/boxes are generally the weaker. Anyway rebuild time :-p What is the best company to supply parts? N

Thanks all the same but I intend to rebuild this box as a learning experience. N

Lol! No I wouldn't be able to put the Bulkhead in the front room... I would be rapidly dismantled :-p.. and besides it gets in the way of the Xbox! Right The gearbox was not engaging 1st gear (and the other gears were beginning to go a bit lumpy) I have removed the gearbox assy (lump of 4x4, some rope and some muscle!) And now I am trying to identify it! The landy is a series 3 88' of 1983 vintage. I have written down all numbers in the castings but am not sure what suffix I should be looking at! The gearbox itself has a very small stamp of EC cast on the left hand side near the top and on the other side is cast: 5766530A LM22W A The transfer box is 539788 JD4 and finally the front output shaft housing is 266811 E590 So what should I be looking for?!? It is fully syncro. I have separated the main gbox from the rest and have started to break it down. The problems looks like it is with the 1st/2nd gear synchromesh unit. (at least thats what the haynes manual calls it) It clicks one way to engage in second gear. But dosn't seem to want to go far enough in the other direction. I can't see what is stopping it even after removing it from the shaft. Is it a consumable item? And can i get new ball-bearings (I dropped 2 of the ball's that are part of the selector shaft mechanism) Are there any before/after or new/warn comparison pics so I can identify what parts are worn and what parts are ok.. Personally all the gears themselves look ok but just to confirm. Well thanks in advance N

Hey all, Have taken all the floor panels, and the seat box off ready to remove the gearbox to rebuild, should be out this afternoon. (Looks like I may have to remove the exhaust to do so). After taking all the panels off tho. I was faced with a rather crusty looking footwell that has been welded up rather badly! So I have potentially given myself another job. Which is to remove the bulkhead and get that worked on (galved etc.) So a few questions. Firstly when I drained the oil out of the gearbox i found a few broken bits of metal about 15x5mm, very thin, could this be the cause of not being able to engage first gear? Secondly whilst I have this section of chassis exposed I want to clean it up properly and and paint it. Is it possible to paint it any colour I want and just spray the clear waxoyl over it. Also I want to do inside the box sections, Do I just get the waxoyl spray and pump it in? Thirdly with the bulkhead being rather crusty, I want to ideally take the bulkhead out. What's the minimum number of pieces that I need to remove to do this. This is being done outside the house on the side of the road (no alternatives unless someone kindly has a garage in the east london area :-P) So The only cover it will have will be a tarp to keep the weather off it. Probably will have a few more questions later but thanks in advance. Nick

Thanks for you replys so far :-) The gearbox just won't go into first gear regardless of the engine running or not! All other gears are ok, high/low range 2w/4w drive etc all ok. Hoping I wont have to take it out.. but still if it needs to come out then I will rebuild it all properly. What sort of time span to rebuild a gearbox for someone mechanically minded but never actually rebuilt a gearbox before?? N

Hi all. My first post so here goes. I acquired a Series III at the beginning of the year and have been running it around ever since. A few weeks ago my gearbox failed (basically I Just physically can't push the gearstick in to First gear) So it looks like gearbox rebuild time!. I have started to pull the panels up on the floor but found that most of the floor panels are bolted down. Looking at a few of the 'original looking' bolts, it looks like that they should be very shallow looking dome headed machine screws with a flat head through a spire nut on the chassis. But a lot of them have been replaced with a nut and bolt that has rusted solid. So I am going to get a grinder to take all these bolts off. The question. Firstly.. What is most likely going to be the problem with the gearbox? And secondly. Should all the floor fixings be these dome head machine screws and can I get them in stainless steel? I am intended to replace every bolt/nut/screw/washer that I remove in the course of this if a rust proof equivelent. Is there a kit of bolts that I can buy. Or is it a better idea to keep away from s/steel fixings? Thanks Nick