Peter Rainbird

I've already sent a stern Email to Haynes. Got an apologetic replay and a promise to correct when/if they release a new addition. Definately ATF in the BW box, earlier transfer boxes used EP90

A trolley jack did occur to me, but only after I'd got my tank back in

If you're going to patch it up, I suspect that you're only postponing the inevitable. Leaking fuel is probably an MOT failure but I'm not sure. It's not a big job to replace the tank (4 bolts) and at least then you know it's good As far as I know, the plastic tanks were only made for the high level filler cap and are different from earlier models with the lower level filler. At least if you take the tank out, you can clean and paint around the chassis and also cut a hole in the boot floor to access the fuel pump without having to remove the tank. When I did mine I also replace the fuel pipes running along the top of the tank as they'd all rusted to the point of non-existance. The most difficult part of the job was getting the old bolts undone to drop the tank off. The rest was straight forward, although it was a slight struggle getting the new tank in place on my own

I stand corrected. It may be the '89 model year when the change over happened. I initially bought the wrong one from an LR specialist based on the chassis number which indicated the single vent tank, but mine has the multi-vent tank. At least they swapped it for the correct one in the end

I got replacement parts, I think they were genuine Land Rover ones and not too pricey and it saved having to bend them to shape. I bought them from Dingocroft in High Wycombe (01494 448367) who posted them out. I think, but I could be wrong that the plastic tanks are different, having the higher level filler (i.e. not just behind the rear wheel). The mountings may be different too. On the steel tank, you have two parts, the tank itself and the stone shield. The mounting bolts go through both, the plastic one may have straps to hold it on. I strongly recommend cutting a hole in the boot floor when you've got the tank out, the article on www.rangie.com says that if you're brave enough, it can be done with the tank in-situ (I wasn't!), but at least now I can get to the pump. I cut a square hole and used a couple of bits of steel strip pop rivetted to the floor to hold the cut out in place. It now just drops into place from above and some gaffer tape seals the gaps. Not elegant, but it works. If you're flash you could cut a circular hole. Note that with the EFi, you have the multi-vent tank with four small venting hoses near the filler pipe. Earlier carb. Rangies have the single vent tank

When I replaced mine, I kept the old sender which didn't work properly afterwards possibly after being a bit shaken up when getting the old tank out. It can be replaced with the tank in situ. I replaced the pump as it had done about 100K miles which is about the failure point apparently. If you're near that, I'd recommend replacement of the pump as it's easier to deal with than when it's died in the middle of nowhere. It may be obvious, but get the correct pump, the injected engine pumps run at much higher pressure than the carburetteur ones I can't see which Rangie you've got, but mine was an '89 classic which didn't have a fuel pump access panel in the boot floor, so I took the chance to cut one with the tank out which means I can now get the the pump without removing the tank. There was a good set of instructions with the measurements for cutting from www.rangie.com. I would also recommend replacing any pipes which are inaccessible when the tank's in place as a precaution. The tank on mine had not been removed since the car was built and the pipe work along the top of the tank was pretty knackered. All the parts were easy to get hold of and relatively cheap.

From what you describe, it sounds like a problem I had with mine a few years back which turned out to be the fuel pump over run switch lurking at the back of the engine. You can get a temporary "fix" by shorting out the relay with a wire so that the pump runs constantly. Apparently, it's a heat related issue as on the 3.9 engine, they moved it to a cooler part of the engine bay

Have you tried http://www.mps4x4store.co.uk/? They seem to do lots of RR panels

If you're taking the fuel tank out, I'd also suggest cutting an access hatch for the fuel pump if you've not already got one. I found a good article with the measurements at http://www.rangie.com/articles_topic.php?i...7&subCat=43 I just marked the hole, cut it, used a couple of pieces of sheet steel to make a lip and dropped the old piece of floor I'd cut out back in and gaffer taped it. At least now I don;t have to take the tank out again if the pump packs up