jonket

As I said it is what I heard. From one that bought new bellows, installed them and they did not last long. So he bought Arnott. Maybe it was not done properly.

I would stick to air suspension. Smoother ride and possible to have the same or even more articulation. I have heard that exchanging bellows is an easy job and inexpensive. But it will not last as long as new air springs. The way to go is to get for example Arnott Inc air springs. It is not that more expensive to get new air springs to new bellows. And they are longer than the original.

The Haynes service and repair manual says 9.1 liters ( 16 Imp pints,20 US pints) of ATF Dexron IID. The RAVE manual agrees. But changing ATF fluid, there will be something left in the transmission. Just fill to MAX on dipstick. The Borg Warner transfer case uses also this ATF Dexron IID. From dry it needs 1.7 liters (IMP pints 3.0, US pints 3.6). Do not use gear oil.

You can try here V8Engines

Interesting reading these 2 Q&A at Ashcroft transmissions. 1. When I start my Automatic Range Rover in the mornings it takes a while to engage drive, it hasn�t always done this. This has become worse in the cold weather. Why? It sounds like you need to change the filter! In the cold weather, i.e when the oil is cold and more viscous, if the filter is partially blocked it will take some time for the pump to draw oil through it. Once the oil becomes warm it flows more freely and can pass through the filter more easily. Hence the problem only occurs when the oil is cold. To remedy this problem your filter needs to be changed. This should be done sooner rather later to reduce the possibility of damage to the autobox, by the clutches �slipping� during this slow engagement. 2. I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why? The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox. We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs. So, it seems to be true in a way, that if it starts slipping, it is the end of the transmission. But is it not worth the try to exchange the filter and fluid? If it does not work, that is the end of it.

I have a 3.9L RRC '90 with ZF transmission. I have been told that I should take care of exchanging the transmission filter and fluid. If I don't the transmission will start to slip and that would be the end of the transmission. This could be a sign to change the filter since it slips cold but okay hot.

Is it not possible to get it in through the air venrilation on the top of the axle?

Well, I have a 3.9L EFI and would like to convert to 4.6L. I am told I only need a 4.6L short block and use all the stuff from the 3.9L engine. The engine block is said to be the same in all engines. Only improved a little bit. And bigger bore and longer stroke. I am just starting this process. Got the 4.6L short block and still taking apart the 3.9L. Here is a good link for information about these engines. RPI Engineering

Well, I agree it sounds like it is electrical. I also agree it sounds not logical that all injectors on one bank fail and are stuck open ( but they are all open at the same time). I don't think that one leaking injector can fill all 4 cylinder's on the same bank (then it would fill the plenum and fill the other bank also. Each bank is controlled separately by the ECU. All injectors on each bank have the same signal. I would assume one faulty injector could disturb the function of others on the same bank. If that is not the case (faulty injector) , then check for a wiring problem ( on my RRC '90 a yellow with white wire for the 2-4-6-8 bank (ECU pin 11), brown with orange is common for both banks and yellow with blue for the other bank (ECU pin 13) ). I would unplug the ECU and the injectors and check for grounding. If injectors are okay and the wiring, I would suspect the ECU. P.S. Wonder how a V8 engine can build up pressure on all 4 cylinders on the same side at the same time.

My 1990 on 38" tires. 4" bodylift and 4" suspension lift. Rear axle moved back about 13 cm (5").

My 1990 on 38" tires. 4" bodylift and 4" suspension lift. Rear axle moved back about 13 cm (5").

Here in Iceland they say that we should only use Champion or Bosch sparkplugs. Seems like the NGK spark plugs get wet in the Rover V8 engine for an unknown reason.