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Ian_Fearn last won the day on September 1 2016

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  1. Western, thank you, much appreciated. I did think it odd that it would be incorrect.
  2. Thanks for the replies. Western, this the rear axle i'm looking at here and it has disc brakes. Do you know the end float for a disc rear axle?
  3. In an attempt to cure a rear end clunk i've noticed there aren't any spacers between the drive flange and circlip on my rear halfshafts despite there being a gap. (130 with Wolf axles) Is this correct?
  4. That’s great thank you. I’m rarely going above 600. I’ve not got a boost gauge so I’m not sure, it’s just as set by BAS who supplied the turbo. I was hitting a steep motorway down in Spain yesterday and noticed it at ~650 and realised it’d not been that high before.
  5. Does anybody know what is considered a safe max EGT temp? It’s a 300tdi with bigger intercooler and VGT turbo on a 3 ish ton Defender motorhome.
  6. I must admit, I was dubious this would work but would you believe it, slid over an old drinks can a treat! Thanks a lot!
  7. Does anybody know if you need a special tool to fit a front CAMshaft oil seal? the seal lip is too big to go over the camshaft correctly. something similar to that supplied with a rear crank seal??
  8. Thanks, i've ordered a sump plug from the Megasquirt website. You really have to be careful on that website not to get too carried away with other ideas!
  9. Thanks for the reassurance gentlemen! Who is HFH? I've seen the Megasquirt website has the magnetic sump plugs so i'll get one fitted as good practice anyway. Knowing it won't get into the oil pump is probably my biggest concern but i'm 90% sure i'm going way over the top. This engine only has 40k miles on it and it just runs like no other 300TDi i've experienced so I want to look after it!
  10. I did a rather silly thing today.... I traced an oil leak in the timing case on my 300TDi to a failed crank seal a week ago but today the puddle was back.... Turns out the camshaft seal is also leaking. I started using my normal method of driving a self tapper into the seal but backed off when I saw flakes of aluminium coming out. Frightened i'd somehow damaged the engine casing I started poking about with a thin bladed screwdriver to try and understand the seal a little better. Basically, I levered too hard and sheared a VERY tiny section of the screwdriver head off. The issue is that I have no idea where it went. I reckon it was probably inside the seal by approx 1-2mm, no more. Having checked what these seals looked like, I carried on with the self tapper and removed the seal without any drama or damage. The little piece of screwdriver didn't come out with the seal and I couldn't find it sat anywhere on the camshaft end. I've poked all around inside the casing around the end of the camshaft with a telescopic magnet and found nothing. I think it most likely the tiny piece has shot off outside the engine BUT if it has dropped down inside that area, would it fall into the sump OR would it fall somewhere much more nasty (like say, the oil pump?) I don't have the intimate knowledge of the insides of the 300tdi. What would you do? I'm sure i'm worrying unnecessarily. I'm thinking as a precaution, drain the oil and remove and clean the sump out. Whilst its off, send the telescopic magnet into the area (if its accessible???) Thanks in advance!
  11. Bit of an update on this then..... After some much more careful measurements the wheelbase differences were more like 1.75cm, not 2.5cm as I first measured. By doing some schoolboy maths I (the wife) calculated I needed ~0.5degree shift to correct the issue. I bought the 2717K Superpro bushes and fitted them today. These are the ones classed as 'slight pull', 0.5 degree. After tracking it with the Dunlop gauge, measurements were re-taken and within a small tolerance its now got equal wheelbase lengths. A test drive shows its now as it should be. I did an emergency brake test and it stayed nice and straight. Well happy 😊
  12. Thanks for your thoughts. Either way, i'm highly unlikely to be able to correct a chassis discrepancy so i've bought a set of the heavy steering pull bushes from Superpro. For £35 its worth a go.
  13. It looks like Superpro do a kit that might help my problem. SPF2717K for a light pull SPF2718K for a strong pull
  14. The wheels were straight as confirmed with a washing line prop on the inner rim edge. Its about 6mm higher on the drivers side (flat floor to front chassis dumb iron). All the bushes really are perfect. The axles are Wolf and seem to be built pretty tough so i'm finding it hard to believe they'd be bent. Maybe i'll try and take some more measurements on the chassis when my tame helper (wife) returns later!
  15. I've got a problem with a 97 130, with a coachbuilt style motorhome body. Its pulling to the left. It most pronounced with road camber but will barely pull straight even on opposite camber roads. An RTC steering damper has applied a bit of a sticking plaster over the problem..... I've checked the wheel alignment with both a Dunlop tracking device and using the extendable washing line prop method. Both show a tiny amount of toe out so i'm happy there. What i've found today is the hub centres are 2.5cm longer (front to rear axle) on the drivers side than passenger (which to me makes sense that i'm getting rear wheel steering in the problem direction). Radius arms are straight, all bushes are good genuine LR parts. There is no discernible damage on the chassis or axles. Its an HD chassis and Wolf axles, the springs are claimed to be approx 1" lift. Question is: Can i correct this? I can't see how i'd resolve 2.5cm using spacers on the existing arm bushes. Or am I missing something else? Thanks in advance!
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