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Ian_Fearn last won the day on September 1 2016

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  1. Is this actually true? I've previously read its an engine out job? I'm going to have to take the transfer box off soon as I made the mistake of fitting a 1.2 ratio box. Better at 60+mph but really saps lower speed 'sprightly-ness'. So the concept of going in via removing the gearbox is probably more sensible.
  2. Interesting you say that..... I've just checked the remaining MTF94 I have in the garage in a genuine MG Rover bottle and its definitely cherry red in colour. I figured it was because i've got cherry red fluid dripping between the transfer box and gearbox..... Either way, I've probably got another engine out job next summer to sort it all out.
  3. Thanks for the reply. The box has MTF94 in it which is red-ish in colour so yes, definitely engine oil. Looks like engine out/box off again soon then.....
  4. I've identified a new oil leak is coming from the bell housing drain hole. I changed the crank seal for the upgraded version about 4 or 5 years ago so whilst I wouldn't be surprised if it had failed, i'd be annoyed considering its probably done less than 20k. My question is: If the leak is due to failed T seals, would oil leak from the bell housing drain or somewhere else? (or maybe both?) Cheers, Ian
  5. I've since seen Wabco labelled pumps in BLUE boxes! The more I read, the more I think it's just pot luck.
  6. I've made a decision on this based on some info I found on a South African forum. Somebody on there claims to have stopped fitting Wabcos and is now fitting Unipump so as a short term solution i've ordered one of these to keep me going. In the longer term though i've done a little research and discovered a few options. 1. Hella UP28 vacuum pump. From what I can find out, these (or something equal to) are about £150 new and fitted to various relatively modern cars including various VAG products and even the recent Vauxhall 1.4T petrol engine. 2. Switching options: Direct from brake pedal switch - I worry about delayed reaction times although i've read posts to say the pump is fast acting. On paper, I'm not keen on this option but it is super simple to set-up. Constant feed - Sounds like pump will burn itself out at 100% duty cycle. Probably not a real option. Regulated - You can buy an adjustable pressure switch (~£40) from EV builder shops that triggers a switching relay to activate the pump. 3. Pressure Reservoir: Do you need one? Maybe, maybe not, would be interested to hear opinions on this. If one is needed, its a space consideration. I've seen both setups. 4. Blanking plate for engine - straightforward enough.
  7. Thanks for the info. I think i'll look into the electric pump idea. There doesn't seem to be a long term resolution for the standard pump issues.
  8. I should have mentioned, i've already carried out this mod and its still leaking..... I'm really looking to see if anybody has had success with a non-Wabco replacement.
  9. Anybody got any experience of 300TDi vacuum pumps? I fitted a new Wabco pump a while back that quickly started leaking. I removed the top cover and replaced the rivets with bolts but its still leaking. I notice most of the big suppliers don't seem to have any Wabcos in stock now so i'm wondering if they've had too many returns? I could do with replacing it but with what? Britpart, Bearmach? Any thoughts? Cheers
  10. Thanks for the reply Mike. Now they're fitted I think i'll do more harm than good stripping them to grind a groove but that does make sense and i'll probably do that next time. With the new UJ bearings, I can't see that pulling the joint will really achieve much additional clearance for grease.
  11. Having all of a sudden heard a nasty clicking noise on my 90, I pulled the props, stripped both front and rear UJs and found a single bearing completely wrecked. I regularly grease the props but clearly out of the 8 bearings total, a single one hadn't been getting any grease, all the rest looked like new (car has done 175,000 miles). I've changed the all the UJs with GKN ones which was pretty straightforward but on completion I have 2 questions: 1. How do you know all bearings are getting greased? On greasing, some of the spider seals leak grease but others don't. Is this a sign all is not well? 2. Some of the joints are tighter than others. Not so tight you can't move them by hand but its not uniform across each joint and each direction of yoke movement. Thanks, Ian.
  12. Just in the process of replacing the turbo with a VNT unit on a 300TDi. The old manifold bull horns are putting up a lot of resistance so i'm going to buy new ones. Can anybody tell me if I should be using anything to seal this joint or should it be an interference/dry fit? Cheers, Ian
  13. I've been in contact with SP Landrover who supplied one of the seals, this was the response..... FAJ100020 has been superceded to the thinner LR055345 type not too sure as to why as the gap between the top of the bulkhead and the windscreen frame is the same on all years, we have sold a lot of them with no problem and i have personally fitted a lot of them from early c reg models to 08 puma models However when fitting, because land rovers leak so badly even when new, i will stick the seal to the top of the bulkhead using the self adhesive back it comes with and then before fitting the windscreen frame on top, i run a bead of sealant along the top of the seal (such as tiger seal) so that you then have a good seal both top and bottom of the seal.
  14. I'm trying to locate a new windscreen surround to bulkhead seal for a 96 Defender. I've now had 2 replacements seals, both of which have been too thin. The original seal is ~8.5mm thick (left on the pic) Both new seals are ~4.8mm thick. The part number i'm ordering is FAJ100020. Neither have been genuine parts. Has anybody else had similar trouble?
  15. I've just had to carry out some significant welding to the footwells and A pillars on my 'rust free' Wolf.
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