Ian_Fearn

Thanks, i've ordered a sump plug from the Megasquirt website. You really have to be careful on that website not to get too carried away with other ideas!

Thanks for the reassurance gentlemen! Who is HFH? I've seen the Megasquirt website has the magnetic sump plugs so i'll get one fitted as good practice anyway. Knowing it won't get into the oil pump is probably my biggest concern but i'm 90% sure i'm going way over the top. This engine only has 40k miles on it and it just runs like no other 300TDi i've experienced so I want to look after it!

I did a rather silly thing today.... I traced an oil leak in the timing case on my 300TDi to a failed crank seal a week ago but today the puddle was back.... Turns out the camshaft seal is also leaking. I started using my normal method of driving a self tapper into the seal but backed off when I saw flakes of aluminium coming out. Frightened i'd somehow damaged the engine casing I started poking about with a thin bladed screwdriver to try and understand the seal a little better. Basically, I levered too hard and sheared a VERY tiny section of the screwdriver head off. The issue is that I have no idea where it went. I reckon it was probably inside the seal by approx 1-2mm, no more. Having checked what these seals looked like, I carried on with the self tapper and removed the seal without any drama or damage. The little piece of screwdriver didn't come out with the seal and I couldn't find it sat anywhere on the camshaft end. I've poked all around inside the casing around the end of the camshaft with a telescopic magnet and found nothing. I think it most likely the tiny piece has shot off outside the engine BUT if it has dropped down inside that area, would it fall into the sump OR would it fall somewhere much more nasty (like say, the oil pump?) I don't have the intimate knowledge of the insides of the 300tdi. What would you do? I'm sure i'm worrying unnecessarily. I'm thinking as a precaution, drain the oil and remove and clean the sump out. Whilst its off, send the telescopic magnet into the area (if its accessible???) Thanks in advance!

Bit of an update on this then..... After some much more careful measurements the wheelbase differences were more like 1.75cm, not 2.5cm as I first measured. By doing some schoolboy maths I (the wife) calculated I needed ~0.5degree shift to correct the issue. I bought the 2717K Superpro bushes and fitted them today. These are the ones classed as 'slight pull', 0.5 degree. After tracking it with the Dunlop gauge, measurements were re-taken and within a small tolerance its now got equal wheelbase lengths. A test drive shows its now as it should be. I did an emergency brake test and it stayed nice and straight. Well happy 😊

Thanks for your thoughts. Either way, i'm highly unlikely to be able to correct a chassis discrepancy so i've bought a set of the heavy steering pull bushes from Superpro. For £35 its worth a go.

It looks like Superpro do a kit that might help my problem. SPF2717K for a light pull SPF2718K for a strong pull

The wheels were straight as confirmed with a washing line prop on the inner rim edge. Its about 6mm higher on the drivers side (flat floor to front chassis dumb iron). All the bushes really are perfect. The axles are Wolf and seem to be built pretty tough so i'm finding it hard to believe they'd be bent. Maybe i'll try and take some more measurements on the chassis when my tame helper (wife) returns later!

I've got a problem with a 97 130, with a coachbuilt style motorhome body. Its pulling to the left. It most pronounced with road camber but will barely pull straight even on opposite camber roads. An RTC steering damper has applied a bit of a sticking plaster over the problem..... I've checked the wheel alignment with both a Dunlop tracking device and using the extendable washing line prop method. Both show a tiny amount of toe out so i'm happy there. What i've found today is the hub centres are 2.5cm longer (front to rear axle) on the drivers side than passenger (which to me makes sense that i'm getting rear wheel steering in the problem direction). Radius arms are straight, all bushes are good genuine LR parts. There is no discernible damage on the chassis or axles. Its an HD chassis and Wolf axles, the springs are claimed to be approx 1" lift. Question is: Can i correct this? I can't see how i'd resolve 2.5cm using spacers on the existing arm bushes. Or am I missing something else? Thanks in advance!

Is this actually true? I've previously read its an engine out job? I'm going to have to take the transfer box off soon as I made the mistake of fitting a 1.2 ratio box. Better at 60+mph but really saps lower speed 'sprightly-ness'. So the concept of going in via removing the gearbox is probably more sensible.

Interesting you say that..... I've just checked the remaining MTF94 I have in the garage in a genuine MG Rover bottle and its definitely cherry red in colour. I figured it was because i've got cherry red fluid dripping between the transfer box and gearbox..... Either way, I've probably got another engine out job next summer to sort it all out.

Thanks for the reply. The box has MTF94 in it which is red-ish in colour so yes, definitely engine oil. Looks like engine out/box off again soon then.....

I've identified a new oil leak is coming from the bell housing drain hole. I changed the crank seal for the upgraded version about 4 or 5 years ago so whilst I wouldn't be surprised if it had failed, i'd be annoyed considering its probably done less than 20k. My question is: If the leak is due to failed T seals, would oil leak from the bell housing drain or somewhere else? (or maybe both?) Cheers, Ian

I've since seen Wabco labelled pumps in BLUE boxes! The more I read, the more I think it's just pot luck.

I've made a decision on this based on some info I found on a South African forum. Somebody on there claims to have stopped fitting Wabcos and is now fitting Unipump so as a short term solution i've ordered one of these to keep me going. In the longer term though i've done a little research and discovered a few options. 1. Hella UP28 vacuum pump. From what I can find out, these (or something equal to) are about £150 new and fitted to various relatively modern cars including various VAG products and even the recent Vauxhall 1.4T petrol engine. 2. Switching options: Direct from brake pedal switch - I worry about delayed reaction times although i've read posts to say the pump is fast acting. On paper, I'm not keen on this option but it is super simple to set-up. Constant feed - Sounds like pump will burn itself out at 100% duty cycle. Probably not a real option. Regulated - You can buy an adjustable pressure switch (~£40) from EV builder shops that triggers a switching relay to activate the pump. 3. Pressure Reservoir: Do you need one? Maybe, maybe not, would be interested to hear opinions on this. If one is needed, its a space consideration. I've seen both setups. 4. Blanking plate for engine - straightforward enough.

Thanks for the info. I think i'll look into the electric pump idea. There doesn't seem to be a long term resolution for the standard pump issues.

I should have mentioned, i've already carried out this mod and its still leaking..... I'm really looking to see if anybody has had success with a non-Wabco replacement.

Anybody got any experience of 300TDi vacuum pumps? I fitted a new Wabco pump a while back that quickly started leaking. I removed the top cover and replaced the rivets with bolts but its still leaking. I notice most of the big suppliers don't seem to have any Wabcos in stock now so i'm wondering if they've had too many returns? I could do with replacing it but with what? Britpart, Bearmach? Any thoughts? Cheers

Thanks for the reply Mike. Now they're fitted I think i'll do more harm than good stripping them to grind a groove but that does make sense and i'll probably do that next time. With the new UJ bearings, I can't see that pulling the joint will really achieve much additional clearance for grease.

Having all of a sudden heard a nasty clicking noise on my 90, I pulled the props, stripped both front and rear UJs and found a single bearing completely wrecked. I regularly grease the props but clearly out of the 8 bearings total, a single one hadn't been getting any grease, all the rest looked like new (car has done 175,000 miles). I've changed the all the UJs with GKN ones which was pretty straightforward but on completion I have 2 questions: 1. How do you know all bearings are getting greased? On greasing, some of the spider seals leak grease but others don't. Is this a sign all is not well? 2. Some of the joints are tighter than others. Not so tight you can't move them by hand but its not uniform across each joint and each direction of yoke movement. Thanks, Ian.

Just in the process of replacing the turbo with a VNT unit on a 300TDi. The old manifold bull horns are putting up a lot of resistance so i'm going to buy new ones. Can anybody tell me if I should be using anything to seal this joint or should it be an interference/dry fit? Cheers, Ian

I've been in contact with SP Landrover who supplied one of the seals, this was the response..... FAJ100020 has been superceded to the thinner LR055345 type not too sure as to why as the gap between the top of the bulkhead and the windscreen frame is the same on all years, we have sold a lot of them with no problem and i have personally fitted a lot of them from early c reg models to 08 puma models However when fitting, because land rovers leak so badly even when new, i will stick the seal to the top of the bulkhead using the self adhesive back it comes with and then before fitting the windscreen frame on top, i run a bead of sealant along the top of the seal (such as tiger seal) so that you then have a good seal both top and bottom of the seal.

I'm trying to locate a new windscreen surround to bulkhead seal for a 96 Defender. I've now had 2 replacements seals, both of which have been too thin. The original seal is ~8.5mm thick (left on the pic) Both new seals are ~4.8mm thick. The part number i'm ordering is FAJ100020. Neither have been genuine parts. Has anybody else had similar trouble?

I've just had to carry out some significant welding to the footwells and A pillars on my 'rust free' Wolf.

Sounds like either a vacuum pump failure or a split in the servo (where the master cylinder bolts on) to me. I've had both issues. My monies on the vac pump though, otherwise i'd expect the loss to be pretty much constant. Mine had clearly been failing for a long time until one day it gave in completely, quite frightening. Changing it transformed my opinion of Defender brakes.

Thanks again, its all checking out in my mind now.