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About Puffernutter

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  • Birthday August 4

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  • Location
    Trowbridge, Wiltshire

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  • Interests
    Breeding and showing Clumber Spaniels and Italian Spinone. Restoring and showing Classic Cars - Rover P5B and TR7 on the road with a Stag and P4 under restoration
  1. Trouble is, the screws are covered by the bonnet when it's locked shut! Tried that! Cheers Peter
  2. Now if you want a really fun job, try releasing the bonnet when a cable has snapped! Cheers Peter
  3. Fair comment. I couldn't think of the right term! It's attached to the RHS (from the driver's seat) locking mechanism. I think if you remove the radiator grill you can get access to it. It's only one side that has the microswitch.
  4. The bonnet switch (IIRC) is on one of the locking mechanisms under the front valence. RHS I think? Cheers Peter
  5. The stop solenoid will only require little current to keep it open enough to let enough fuel through to idle. Step 1 is when it is doing this to remove the feed to the stop solenoid at the stop solenoid and prove this is the problem. If this is the case, the stop solenoid is getting a small leakage current and it may not be the lighting circuit, it could be anywhere as electricity is fickle stuff! Let us know if it stops with the feed removed. Cheers Peter
  6. Diesel? Cheers Peter
  7. Too late now but an Ed China trick! Leave the existing belt in place and then cut it in half lengthwise. When the cut is complete, remove the outer half. Then place the new belt so it is half way across the pulleys loosening the tensioner slightly to fit if needed. Then cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. Push the new belt fully on. Cheers Peter
  8. A long time since I played with a 12J (I used to have one in my 110), but doesn't one pulley have two revolutions w.r.t the other having just 1? Could you be 180 degrees out? Cheers Peter
  9. 13.8 to 14.4v A multimeter across the battery terminals should be sufficient. Most engines should charge at idle. Increase the revs to see if anything changes. Looks like a diode gone in the diode pack. Cheers Peter
  10. Diode possibly? Cheers Peter
  11. The charge light actually creates a small amount of current that starts the alternator charging, which then self excites and when that point is reached, the charging light goes out, so you know it is working! Simples! It's normally a spade connector. Cheers Peter
  12. You need the thin wire to excite the alternator, it may not even kick in, even at high revs. Cheers Peter
  13. Can of worms! If a tacho for a petrol engine that takes a feed from the ignition, then generally all you set up is the number of cylinders. If you're taking pulses from an alternator it depends on how many pulses/revolution from the alternator and the pulley sizes from the crank pulley to the alternator pulley! I'd buy a tacho for a petrol engine that is driven off the coil if you could - by far and away the easiest solution! Cheers Peter
  14. With a diesel its usually the alternator (which isn't a function on earlier Landies). With a petrol it depends on the tacho. Some tachos use a wire from the coil looped around the tacho (forms a single turn), others are a direct connection. What instructions came with it? Cheers Peter
  15. I had a 1990 110 (initially 19J then 200Tdi) that I converted to a veggie. It took a while to tweak the system, but this is what I ended up with. Twin tanks. A small tank of diesel was installed behind the centre middle seat. I also installed a heater unit on the oil line (fed from the cooling water system) a changeover valve, did the feed AND return (stops you feeding oil back to the diesel!) and a temperature switch (70degC) on the heater. The engine was always started on diesel. When the engine was sufficiently warm, the temperature switches automatically swapped from diesel to veggie (I had an indicator on the dash that showed the state of the valve (red - diesel, green - veggie!) about 1 mile before I was about to get to my destination, I would flip a switch that out the engine back onto diesel to purge the veggie. That would leave it in a state ready to start again the next time. I also had a hidden switch that would allow me to force a switch either way. The only thing I would do differently is to have a slightly larger tank of diesel and either a fuel gauge on that tank or a warning when it was getting low. If you want more details, send me a message. Cheers Peter