Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

Puffernutter

Settled In
  • Content count

    565
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About Puffernutter

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.whissgig.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Trowbridge, Wiltshire

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Breeding and showing Clumber Spaniels and Italian Spinone. Restoring and showing Classic Cars - Rover P5B and TR7 on the road with a Stag and P4 under restoration
  1. Overheating Help

    Apart from noise - no! Also be careful on removing it - the screws shear very easily! Cheers Peter
  2. Overheating Help

    If you're in the Trowbridge area I've got a cooling pressure testing kit you can borrow. Cheers Peter
  3. Overheating Help

    Could there be an airlock in the system? Is the heater getting hot? (OK - it's a Defender, is it above tepid :-) Cheers Peter
  4. P38 Electronics Gurus - help need

    Have you checked the wiring to the crank sensor ? With my P38 GEMS it was the crank sensor that was the cause of all my problems as it is the only sensor that the GEMS has no default settings for! Peter
  5. Fuel Tank Connections, 110

    What year? Petrol or diesel?
  6. Do you recognise these extended shocks?

    I'm planning on lifting my 90, I have the spacers, but not the shocks. If you don't have a buyer yet - message me please? Cheers Peter
  7. P38 - Stupid Horn

    Trouble is, the screws are covered by the bonnet when it's locked shut! Tried that! Cheers Peter
  8. P38 - Stupid Horn

    Now if you want a really fun job, try releasing the bonnet when a cable has snapped! Cheers Peter
  9. P38 - Stupid Horn

    Fair comment. I couldn't think of the right term! It's attached to the RHS (from the driver's seat) locking mechanism. I think if you remove the radiator grill you can get access to it. It's only one side that has the microswitch.
  10. P38 - Stupid Horn

    The bonnet switch (IIRC) is on one of the locking mechanisms under the front valence. RHS I think? Cheers Peter
  11. Discovery engine won't stop

    The stop solenoid will only require little current to keep it open enough to let enough fuel through to idle. Step 1 is when it is doing this to remove the feed to the stop solenoid at the stop solenoid and prove this is the problem. If this is the case, the stop solenoid is getting a small leakage current and it may not be the lighting circuit, it could be anywhere as electricity is fickle stuff! Let us know if it stops with the feed removed. Cheers Peter
  12. Discovery engine won't stop

    Diesel? Cheers Peter
  13. Possible problem with timing

    Too late now but an Ed China trick! Leave the existing belt in place and then cut it in half lengthwise. When the cut is complete, remove the outer half. Then place the new belt so it is half way across the pulleys loosening the tensioner slightly to fit if needed. Then cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. Push the new belt fully on. Cheers Peter
  14. Possible problem with timing

    A long time since I played with a 12J (I used to have one in my 110), but doesn't one pulley have two revolutions w.r.t the other having just 1? Could you be 180 degrees out? Cheers Peter
  15. testing the alternator

    13.8 to 14.4v A multimeter across the battery terminals should be sufficient. Most engines should charge at idle. Increase the revs to see if anything changes. Looks like a diode gone in the diode pack. Cheers Peter
×