longlandy

I make the adapters and chassis mounts to fit rose or johnny joints on the end of standard factory( stronger than aftermarket junk) radius arms. Nothing new, yanks have been doing it for years, go on pirate and have a look.

If you are prepared to do your own dismantling and packing, you just need a shorterm yard for a container and no real need to pay dealer premiums. Depending on what part of the country you wish to base your operations I could point you in the right direction

Check gas solenoid in welder, also diaphram in regulator could have hole in it venting to atmosphere,if its delivering too much gas you should be able to hear the excess coming out of the torch. I had a brand new lincoln mig (not a cheapo either, though made of chinese junk inside) and the solenoid wasnt closing fully, losing gas all the time and nearly imposible to hear.

Never heard of 1.5 sheet, sizes are still based on swg so 16swg is 1.6 , 18swg is about 1.2 which is a good gauge for handforming body parts in m/s-still bendable but thick enough to get a good weld and take a certain amount of stretching.

Frogs island used to fit them many years ago, back when there was more series than coilers on the road

perfect answer

Makes me think of going through a cheese cutter if there is a accident

And people like rakeway or rovertracs can make the salisbury mega strong with 1.5" halfshafts and dana 70 locker . Front salisbury is limited by halfshafts and cv and this can be helped by landcruiser cv

series motors will always be more cool than coilers

If I can summon the interest to do it I will some static load tests and post the data regarding thread failure. The test rig will be crude, but there again when I finished my degree and went to work for a major car makers design centre I was expecting some really serious stuff, but It was nearly all home made! As for bending I would think designing some shape into the bar instead of just parallel could help matters as the forces are not running down the centre line.

Watch the evil bay, when ever they come up cheap I buy them off there for stock .Last one was £3.50

If you mean drag link etc use 1.250" x 5/8 cds , 5/8 being the tapping size for 11/16uns

Valid point about the corrosion, the thread size was always a concern on the rover balljoint though the push pull forces on said thread are nowhere near the forces when torqued up for a shear joint, that said a good locking mechanism is vital to stop movement and the material being almost eroded away by the push pull action.

Thanks zim for that, it confirms my idea of 7075 being the way forward. The reasoning behind my use is the fact is I have it as a stock material so I get a good price(and not 6m of cds to use up) , speed of manufacture ,not having a potential weak point of a welded bung and the main benefit of reducing unsprung weight. My concern with steering bars is the 11/16 thread diameter of rover ball joints, so these would need destructive testing and not simple over engineering to confirm a good safety factor.Bog monster by high end I meant not Ford or French! Why did I post? cos Im pretty certain there are some metallurgists and all round clever people on here!

I may do/get so uts testing done,to confirm calculations and give direct comparisons to oem bars, as for the fear of aluminium, nearly all high end cars have nearly all alloy suspension components and what do you think aircraft are made from, motorcycle frames etc etc. Thanks for replying

What do you lot think of steering bars made of 7075 aluminium, 1.250" dia solid thru ,or will being solid cause problems with arc specs, the reason I ask is the fact that I can get it cheaper than 1.250" cds, Iam also thinking the same for rose jointed rear trailing arms.Any thoughts?

If someone presses buy it now, e bay are going to want a big fat lump of cash in fees!

circular saw, forget jigsaws clog to easy

16 to 10 gauge is quite easy to weld with arc, and very quick so heat build up is not a issue. With tig you can go as thick or thin as you like, with critical welds I use tig root instead of a low hyd rod which can be on some very thick plate. As for in situ welding arc is excellent due to the weld electrode being thin and plyable therefore easy to get into places.

doesnt look like it, but they can be very unreliable

mig welding is not better it is easier,hence critical jobs are still speced arc only

Mach 3 seems like a godsend, I remember when fanuc was the easiest retrofit cnc or plc/pc hybrid running dos was the brew for a proto cnc machine

Ratio is the same, it will bolt on but yout prop will not fit as the salisbury is bigger