Willie MacLeod

There was a recall on these removable towbars, your comment about having towed many tons for many miles may have led to excessive wear on the bar - Land Rover suggested heavy users change to fixed tow bars. Glad all ended up safe, I'd take a turn to your nearest dealer and get them on the case to check it out.

Can't be definitive but my 1999 TD5 110 has a switch fitted, my Dad's 1989 and my brothers 1985 110s never had. I suspect yours never had either if its not there.

You learn something new every day! Didn't realise that LR had ever made them, anyone any idea when they started putting them into Defenders? You are right, looking at them closely they aren't quite the same as the Mud Stuff ones.

They're Mud Stuff products, not Land Rovers own https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-rear-speaker-panel Should fit your 90.

Worth checking for chassis rust around at the rear around the rear driveshaft cut outs as well. Wishbones/bushes galore to check. Rusty fuel tank cradles. Failed propshaft centre bearings. Sticky turbo actuators. I've got an early one, 2004 with a lot of miles on it. Still a nice vehicle to drive. There are a lot out there with huge mileages on them! I'd buy on condition and expect to get a good clean one with no faults for £6k, values have dropped a bit recently. Double check the tax bracket of the specific model you choose so you don't get a shock.

Slow crawl up through Elphin? Nice part of the world.

Yellow/black and yellow/brown wires twisted together are what you are looking for. You should be able to test from the diagnostics socket pin 6 and 14 I think? Wiring diagrams available online for that age of RR sport, not sure what the protocol is here for linking to other sites but a quick search should bring a copy up. I had similar issues when I had left my handbrake ECU disconnected on my Discovery 3 and the lack of CANBUS communication with the dash faults/lack of computer diagnostics initially had me thinking I had a serious issue until I realised what it was. I'd unplug every connection I could get to on the CANBUS high speed network and clean up as suggested. The wiring diagram will give you a list of every high speed CAN connection and if you can unplug/replug them if the issue still isn't resolved try testing the CAN wiring one length at a time.

I've got a good classic (1993) RR screen here in the western isles that you can have free of charge but shipping is the biggest issue as I'm in the Western Isles.

When I got my 1999 td5 110 some years ago I was quite excited about the fact it had factory air con in it. Having lived with it for a bit I am now less than impressed with it and am wondering if some kind folk here can help me improve the general performance of the system. In particular, I am not impressed with the lack of heat circulation - I'm used to early 110s and always tended to have a decent amount of air directed to the footwell which worked quite well for me. With the aircon system I don't seem to get significant amounts of heat down there at all and with all the hot air going onto the windscreen my feet are freezing! Is this normal for early style dash air con defenders or am I going to have to delve deeper into the system and look for missing hoses etc?

Hi Ben A good few years ago now but I had B pillars galvanised no problem with no special treatment as such and no warping. Remember and add your rear tow bar brackets and bits like fuel tank undertray etc

The brown one (easiest to access) which has two wire connection on it, the single wire blue sensor is for the guage.

Hi all Does anyone have any advice on how to open a 1999 freelander bonnet where the cable has completely snapped? There does not appear to be any plastic cover under the latch mechanism referred to in other places online - a previous owner was using a piece of cable tied somewhere to the latch - that has come adrift and now I have no clue how to get in, very difficult to see through the grille where the activating lever is. Any advice or pictures very much welcomed. Thank you.

I have had two Range Rovers stolen from storage in Ross-Shire (Highlands) and I'm wondering if any of your members have seen them anywhere or been offered parts from them: One is reg RSC 200Y and is a dark blue Range Rover classic. 1982 reg but was rebodied with a later 4 door body. Chassis is galvanised, however was coated with a red epoxy paint so this may not be obvious. 4.6L V8, 3 speed torqueflite gearbox, B&M shifter, leather interior with electric seats, alloy tailgate, stainless exhaust, stainless steel petrol tank (though well coated with paint, has unique filler cap). Chassis SALLHAMV3AA125186, engine number 001 (John Eales build - late style rover v8 heads on it). Was on discovery steel wheels when taken. Picture attached. 2nd is later 3.9L V8 reg H641 WRS with 5 speed manual box, light blue, quite rotten, had lpg kit on it but was stripped of a lot of the interior. Chassis SALLHAMM7GA441613, engine number 35D02380A. Reward offered for information leading to recovery of vehicles. My number is 07941320318. Thank you.

Thanks guys I'll tell the guy to put it in local paper first to see if there is any takers at the higher valuation given by the garage, I'll put in the offer of £500 as a backup for him at least at that I could have a new chassis fitted which would get it back on the road or break it and not lose out.

Hi western, Should have pointed out the vehicle is only around 10 miles away from me so I wouldn't have to worry about shipping costs. I've done a full 110 CSW rebuild with my brothers a few years ago (all major steel bits galved) so should really know better than to consider this but I do like 110s and miss not driving one

Hi all I'm wondering if I can get some opinions on a fair price for a 1993 110 station wagon - no pics available, but in a nutshell: Good points - fairly recent recon lt77 gearbox, 200 Tdi engine was reconditioned 40k ago, axles&swivels ok. Most of exhaust looks new too. Body is straight, never off roaded. Vehicle had been rebuilt by Liveridge British some years ago - doesn't reflect well on them. Bad points - chassis very rotten. Lost count of the number of poorly done patches on it - we're talking in the region of 15 small patches mostly on the main rails, most of the outriggers are replacements. Bulkhead quite bad as well - top of door posts starting to bubble though not holed, footwells have suffered from damp carpets trapping moisture for years, vents siliconed up. Bottom of B posts holed as well. All rear cappings very rotten. Doors not too great either. No MOT, no tax. Interior not too bad, servicable. No chance of ever repairing this chassis, definately needs a new one. Bulkhead will need replacing really sometime in the next few years as well. The question is what do you think its worth? It's in the Western Isles, so fairly limited market and additional expense for anyone on the mainland to pick it up. Different valuations locally as well - one garage said £1500, another valuation from local garage went from £750 having had a quick look at it to £400 once it was up on the ramps and probed over. Initially I thought this was ridiculously low for a 110 TDi, but maybe not bearing in mind location and work required to get it back on the road (MOT ran out a month ago). The owner is not going to able to break it himself (as I'm sure it would be worth more that way) so what would a mainland UK breakers yard be likely to pay for this vehicle? I'm considering this for a double cab conversion, but want to get opinions on what others are paying for similar project vehicles before I decide on whether to make an offer or pass on it. Thanks for any feedback.