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Mark Monkey

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by Mark Monkey

  1. So my solution to the above was a new fuel pump. Fitted, as you can see in July 2021. Here we are in October 2022, and after a short journey my Defender broke down on the M4. Six hours later I was eventually recovered (M4 closed, slow traffic), and the waiting AA man said failed fuel pump ( voltage at the fuel pump connection but no noise). I thought it strange given its not very old and done hardly any miles but it was an BEARMACH one, not OEM or Genuine, so I ordered a new VDO one (£284!) Fitted and the Defender still wont start - cranks but not firing. The Pump on purging is silent. Its getting 12v to the connection when cycling. Before I start cracking the pump line and check its actually not pumping, any other ideas. This is really starting to irritate me.
  2. Hi I have the ABS & Brake Light staying on (no TC Light on). The Nancom reports Pump Failure 3 (Pump sticking). I've tried the following - Checked resistance on wheel sensors, all read the same. - Fuse Link and Fuses all OK for ABS - Not replaced the ABS relay yet, heard they can stick - Visually inspected cables, all look ok Any ideas? Kr, M
  3. So – it’s been a ‘fun’ afternoon of diagnostics (at least it was sunny) 1st – Battery was charged, showing ~13v when disconnected, and when cranking still shows ~11v, so its getting enough power (it’s a BIG 110ah battery 😊) ECU plug was clean, but I removed the plug, cleaned it again with IPA, and added petroleum jelly and refitted. I replaced the crank sensor with my replacement, and a spacer), checking the resistance before fitted (1.26ohm) and when fitted and connected via pin 13/36 on ecu (1.27ohm), so I believe the wiring is ok (it looked ok). It’s cranking, showed around ~290 on crank sensor (friend observed it) from the Nanocom, but wouldn’t fire. Its had a new fuel header inc. connectors and valve – and a new fuel filter a few weeks ago, and was starting fine after it, so I didn’t look there. Purged the pump – I can hear the pump humming but no gurgling sounds or anything. Pump is receiving 12v on its live post relay. So checked for pressure. Disconnected the HP feed which goes from the pump (to the HP input of the fuel regulator (green collar) and there is no pressure, barely a dribble when cranking. I don’t have a multi-meter that will go above 10amp, so can’t test it inline using the 20a fuse (found here) I’m not sure how the fuel pump/filter work. It seems to go via the filter via a LP pipe to filter the fuel, and then goes to the fuel pressure regulator (Pipe 8 on diagram). Its here I’m seeing no pressure. a. Fuel Pump? Do I need to buy a new multi-meter, or is there another way of testing whether the pump itself is working? b. Could the valve from the fuel pump to the fuel filter via the distribution head be faulty, or blocked – should I crack it and see if fuel is coming out? (Pipe 7 on diagram) c. Anything else?? TIA.
  4. Hi Landy was starting fine but had trouble starting it when warm. Read it could be a fault crank sensor, so set about changing it. Now it wont start - replaced with old one, and still wont start. Inspected wiring and it looks ok - and both sensors measuring 1.2ohm so believed to be ok. I'm running out of ideas to test - so I've formulated this 'battle plan' for the weekend. Have I missed anything? Approach 1. Ensure that your battery is in good condition and fully charged at around 12.3-12.6 volts. If it drops below 10.5v when starting, it will not start. The battery should show 14v when the engine is running. 2. If it’s a TD5 with an immobiliser, try resetting it, which involves a sequence on the key fob on unlocking and locking. 3. Check the Inertia Switch has fired – centre of the firewall in the engine bay, it pops up if fired, just push it down. Its there to cut off fuel in the event of an accident. 4. Check there isn’t oil in your ECU (under the driver’s seat, red cable – disconnect battery beforehand). If there is oil, clean it using contact cleaner and reconnect. To prevent it, this is typically a failure on the injector harness (See Replacing Injector Harness on TD5) where oil seeps through the connector and down the wire, which with movement, makes its way into the ECU plug. I’ve seen some raise the ECU into a vertical position to prevent this as well as help with water ingress, if you go mad when off-roading). NOTE: Oil can eventually make its way into your ECU and break it. 5. If could be a fuel issue, a. Turn the ignition to II position, fully depress the throttle 5 times, the engine management light with flash, then wait until the engine management light stops flashing and crank it b. with multimeter set on mV measure across fuse F10(30A) in situ while the pump(or engine) is running, according to the attached chart by mutiplication if the HP is working you should get around 23.mV reading(or more) which means around 13A current draw , if it's only around 10mV(= 5A draw) the HP is dead but the pump is still running on LP 6. The Crank Sensor (a Variable Reluctance Sensor (VRS)) can stop a TD5 from starting, it should register around 300 rpm when cranking otherwise the ECU wont engage the fuel pump – the starter motor could also be at fault. If you’ve a Nanocom, using the ‘Inputs Fuelling’ setting, you can get an engine rpm reading when cranking/towing. If you’ve a Nanocom, and you see no RPM when either cranking, it could be the sensor, circuit issue or the bad starter motor interference. Try bump-starting it/towing it, if it starts, it’s the crank sensor sensor – if it doesn’t start, then it’s the starter motor. If you’ve a Nanocom, and you see no RPM when either cranking it from standstill – or pushing/towing, then, the reasons could be one of the following. a. The Crank Sensor is faulty. You can test it by measuring the Ohm between the connectors directly on the sensor, and it should read around 1.2 Ohm. b. The wiring to the sensor could be faulty. The Crank Sensors location is such that it is prone to oil and heat, and this can cause the wire to become brittle – and its not in the easiest place to repair – if you have to, Its recommend fitting a new connected, by either splicing it to the old one OR fitting a new connected direct to the ECU. To test, Insert a probe into cavities 13 and 36 on the back of the red plug to the ECU and measure the resistance. If it doesn't measure 1.2 ohm, then its wiring. c. The Starter-Motor could be interfering with the Crank Sensor (they are close, and worn bushes creates interference). You sometimes see a ‘noisy crank signal’ on the Nanocom if this is the case, but not all the time. 7. If the Crank Sensor is working and the Starter motor is working but it still won’t start, it could be a Fuel Issue, either the non-return valve on fuel distribution head). Switch the pump into purge mode, this will cycle the fuel pump. You can now check you a have a charge on the Relay to the fuel pump (R103) which should be energised with Pin 30, 87 and 86 going live, and you can also check this on the fuel pump itself – or listen for the fuel pump priming sound. 8. If its not the crank sensor, the starter motor, or the fuel-pump, it could be the seals on the injectors. Over time these wear thin/corrode and lets diesel through into the compression chamber, making it hard to start – if this happens, you often see diesel in the oil and the oil level rise. If this is the case, change the copper washers on injectors (See Changing Injector Copper Washers) and clean your oil – you’ll need injector pullers, or a small allen key fashioned into a level, to live the injector free. *** now I've run out of ideas TIA, Mark
  5. Is there a rubber gasket on the red plug? Where is that?
  6. Hi My LR (Defender TD5 2002) is starting with some difficulty (doesn't just fire up, takes a quite a few turnovers) and then runs lumpy. I've then driven her around the block - stopped - and after a few moments, its revving freely and running fine. I can then go for a drive - start and stop and its ok. Then when I pull back on the drive (has slight upward slope), its back to being weird again. Prior to this I had checked the RED plug on the ECU and it had oil in it (see Oily-ECUPlug.jpg) and the connector has what looks like a frayed black wire (look at the base of it, near my thumb) which I don't know if its normal? Other wires look ok I have a Nanocom, and its throwing no Fault codes. Don't know what else to look at on it Any ideas of where to look next? (BTW - I've ordered a new Injector Harness and Rocker Cover Gasket in the hope of stopping the oil) - just wondering if I need to replace the ECU Loom as well ! I'm a newbie at this Defender stuff.
  7. Hi, I have a Defender 90, and am thinking of trading this for a 110, the main reason being for the additional seats so that my children can be safely transported in it - without the need to install 2 x expensive seats in the very back. Key question, accepting that its longer, are they any less capable off-road? Clearly the length will mean some things are more likely, such as grounding in the middle, but exactly how capable are they??? Interested to hear from 110 owners, or people that have owned both? Thanks in advance.
  8. Hi, After careful consideration, I went with a Raptor Engineering one. Its very robust, and even has supporting braces for the CB Radio. Bolts into the centre (after a little cutting away). Seemed to be more resilient to the kind of abuse off-roading will give it, and the fact they can pre-cut and coat the thing is great. I've not fitted it yet, but have attached a picture of it. Raptor also so some inexpensive cheap LED switches too Mark
  9. Before I go and buy anything, brand new or otherwise, I'm looking for the following: 1. QT Diff Guards - Front and Back for Defender 90 2. 2" Lift Kit (Springs, Shocks, Dislocation Front & Rear, Brake Hoses, Bumper Stops) Paddocks have (2) at £358 but seems expensive? Also looking for 3. Good Halogen Lamps for Front Bumper. All help and advice appreciated Mark __________________ Rgds,
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