IanS

The standard headlight connectors are definitely marginal.

It doesn't have dim-dip. ISTR that went out in the 1980s.......

Your "poor workmanship" is light years better than anything I can manage......

Yes, that's why I'm suggesting there's another fault. Mind you I've only just noticed yours is a V8 so I'm probably wrong anyway.....

AIUI, if you disconnect the MAF the ECU will use default readings so the fact yours doesn't run with it disconnected suggests something else is causing the problem.

I had a similar experience a couple of weeks ago when towing our caravan round some slow, hilly and twisty back roads after being diverted. I think it was due to keeping it in "D" which meant the torque converter spent a lot of time slipping. In retrospect I should (as advised in the handbook!) have used 3 or even 2. Oil and filter both changed not long ago, and transmission works fine otherwise.

True, but I only do it when I need to and am very careful. No problems so far....... I must say I've always been slightly worried about the 4 10mm(?) bolts holding the spare wheel carrier to the door however.

The one I have has little velcro straps that hold the top tubes of the bikes in place, although I also use straps to pull the bottoms of the bikes in towards the wheel. Those (otherwise useless) belts you get with craghopper trousers are ideal!

I've had the Halfords wheel mounted one bought from ebay for a fiver around 5 years ago. It's survived several trips to France carrying 2 mountain bikes. It does wobble a bit but has never shown any signs of dropping off. The main advantage over the towbar versions is that you can still (carefully if the bikes are on) open the tailgate. We also tow a caravan with the bikes mounted and never had a problem with them fouling, which I was a bit concerned about before using the rack. It folds down when the bikes aren't on and is very easy to mount / dismount although I always check & retighten the straps after a few miles as they can get a bit loose at first.

Mine's never had that plate since I bought it 7 years ago and I haven't noticed any problems.......

D1s used to suffer this but I hadn't heard of it on a D2 before. As you say, there'll be plenty of donor cars around if necessary. However, I'd be having a very close look at the rest of it.......

That is of course true.......

It's amazing how often weird problems turn out to be that fusebox. BTW the D with a line through it shows that the IDM in the fusebox isn't communicating with the BCU. I expect you get it while it's synchronising (but when I did mine I just left it to get on with it).

The box comes out easily enough - there's just one (10mm IIRC) bolt then it pops off a rubber grommet affair. Mine looked fine from the outside but when I split it (the 2 halves are held together with integral clips that can be a bit awkward) it was clear the circuit board was badly corroded. My symptoms were different to yours but I've heard all sorts reported. A used fusebox is only £20 or so. Can't help with the EKA I'm afraid...... I would advise joining the d2 boys club forum (www.thed2boysclub.co.uk) as there's lots of expertise over there as well as a nanocom locator.

I'd have a look at the under-dash fusebox / IDM which can cause some strange effects if water gets in. Also the BCU.

My gear lever is very slightly out of adjustment so if it's in Park I often have to push it hard forwards so it recognises it. I suppose I should fix it but it's not really an issue. Worth trying, or try it in N instead.

Me neither. Six years and 50,000 miles and I've never ever had this problem. ABS has only kicked in when I've deliberately provoked it to check it still works..... It's a little worrying that all your 10 friends have experienced it yet I've never heard of anyone else with the issue.

Sadly I don't think this would show up on diagnostics. Looking at the circuit diagram, it seems the warning light may be controlled by the IDM which is part of the under-dash fusebox. This is notorious for getting water in it which shorts out various things. Worth a check.

A smoke test won't tell you if the manifold is warped. There's only a tiny amount of exhaust gas leaking. I'd be slightly doubtful about their abilities...... Take the acoustic cover off and have a good look.

Agreed that's the most likely cause. If you shine a torch along the manifold from the front you may see some black soot which would confirm it (although it's a bit cramped under there).

Mine was like that and I successfully got the compressor unit out by undoing the 3 long bolts from the bottom and detaching the airlines. Putting it back was a bit tricky however......

BUT - one day I got out of mine and I could hear the compressor running continuously. After investigating it turned out the relay points had welded themselves together. A quick swap for the headlight wash relay and all was well.

There's that (which I prefer to call a sigh of relief), but also the compressor quite often runs a couple of times after you've switched off. Nothing to worry about.

The first thing would be to get rid of the "silly plastic boost box". Td5 electronics are complicated and that certainly won't help. But the way you describe it isn't too different to normal operation especially if it's cold. It does need a fair amount of throttle to get it going....... When I first got mine I thought there was something wrong as it sounded as though a clutch was slipping all the time. But after 6 years and nearly 50,000 miles it's still going strong. The shifts are very smooth so it's sometimes tricky to know which gear it's in. And remember the lockup in 4th at around 55 mph.

I think there was an article in LRO magazine recently about fitting one to a Defender but it looked to me as though it would get in the way.