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IanS

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Posts posted by IanS

  1. I had a similar experience a couple of weeks ago when towing our caravan round some slow, hilly and twisty back roads after being diverted. I think it was due to keeping it in "D" which meant the torque converter spent a lot of time slipping. In retrospect I should (as advised in the handbook!) have used 3 or even 2.

    Oil and filter both changed not long ago, and transmission works fine otherwise.

  2. I'd be careful about a spare-wheel mounted one and opening the rear door, it's quite a lot of extra weight/leverage on the hinges.

    True, but I only do it when I need to and am very careful. No problems so far.......

    I must say I've always been slightly worried about the 4 10mm(?) bolts holding the spare wheel carrier to the door however.

  3. Thanks for your replies,

    I was tending towards the spare wheel type rather than the tow bar type, as this would allow me to open the tailgate without removing everything. Any ideas what would be the best method of making sure the bikes stay on the rack? would bungee cords be enough?

    Thanks

    The one I have has little velcro straps that hold the top tubes of the bikes in place, although I also use straps to pull the bottoms of the bikes in towards the wheel.

    Those (otherwise useless) belts you get with craghopper trousers are ideal!

  4. I've had the Halfords wheel mounted one bought from ebay for a fiver around 5 years ago. It's survived several trips to France carrying 2 mountain bikes.

    It does wobble a bit but has never shown any signs of dropping off. The main advantage over the towbar versions is that you can still (carefully if the bikes are on) open the tailgate.

    We also tow a caravan with the bikes mounted and never had a problem with them fouling, which I was a bit concerned about before using the rack.

    It folds down when the bikes aren't on and is very easy to mount / dismount although I always check & retighten the straps after a few miles as they can get a bit loose at first.

    DSCF6083.jpg

  5. The box comes out easily enough - there's just one (10mm IIRC) bolt then it pops off a rubber grommet affair. Mine looked fine from the outside but when I split it (the 2 halves are held together with integral clips that can be a bit awkward) it was clear the circuit board was badly corroded. My symptoms were different to yours but I've heard all sorts reported. A used fusebox is only £20 or so.

    Can't help with the EKA I'm afraid......

    I would advise joining the d2 boys club forum (www.thed2boysclub.co.uk) as there's lots of expertise over there as well as a nanocom locator.

  6. My gear lever is very slightly out of adjustment so if it's in Park I often have to push it hard forwards so it recognises it. I suppose I should fix it but it's not really an issue. Worth trying, or try it in N instead.

  7. The first thing would be to get rid of the "silly plastic boost box". Td5 electronics are complicated and that certainly won't help.

    But the way you describe it isn't too different to normal operation especially if it's cold. It does need a fair amount of throttle to get it going.......

    When I first got mine I thought there was something wrong as it sounded as though a clutch was slipping all the time. But after 6 years and nearly 50,000 miles it's still going strong. The shifts are very smooth so it's sometimes tricky to know which gear it's in. And remember the lockup in 4th at around 55 mph.

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