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The short answer is no. A longer one might involve doing clever things with the various control units but that way lies madness.....

This is the only one I can answer - it's not that it won't go into 4th, it's that the torque converter isn't locking up (at around 57 mph). There is as you suspect a time / temperature factor so that this doesn't happen when the oil in the box is cold.

Good to hear from someone with actual experience.

Maybe, but you're still disabling the proper valve. ISTR I've heard of somebody with these having the cap broken off by kerbing or something and lost all the air as a result. Not for me. It's easy enough to go round with the tyre gauge.

I've never liked the idea as to work they must allow pressure past the valve. If your tyres are losing air there must be a reason. Mind you 22 inch does sound a bit excessive......

Mine's been like that for 3 years and 25,000 miles. I did fit a new cap last year but it made no difference so I've decided it's just a feature......

The bimetallic strip, silicone viscous unit and fan blades are one component and are not (AFAIK) available separately. Island 4x4 have the Britpart one for £50 or so - I had one from them that was defective but the replacement seems fine so far.

The fan is controlled by the bimetallic strip. When the engine is cold the fan should just freewheel after the first few seconds of running. If it isn't you will probably be able to hear it howling. Start the engine from cold, stop after about 30 seconds. You should be able to push the fan blades round with very little resistance.

There are 2 "thermostats" - one which controls coolant flow as usual, and a bimetallic strip which allows the fan to freewheel when cold but locks it when hot. The TD5 coolant system is quite complicated...... You need to take the fan off to get to the thermostat and you need special spanners to do that but then it's easy.

The temperature gauge isn't like a normal one - it just has 3 or 4 fixed positions. When it's idling it often doen't produce enough heat to keep it hot but mine has never dropped back as yours does.

You do need to plug the hose otherwise you'll lose the brake servo....... And just removing the plug may throw up errors in the ECU. There is a write up of doing this somewhere (D2 boys' club?)

Also the distributor cap & rotor arm. Genuine ones cost a fortune but they are the only ones that work. Also check routing of HT leads as they can "cross-talk" (between 5 & 7 IIRC).

If that nut is loose you have a problem as it's supposed to be really tight (490 Nm).

Mondial (probably because they look vaguely like ferrari wheels).

If you mean the electronic immobiliser & remote, you would need to get your new key blade fitted to the old immobiliser handle (or maybe swap the internal gubbins over to a new shell).

I've just taken the fan off my TD5 today as it was seized - and I agree with lyron about the rusty mounting bolts - it took about 2 hours longer than it should trying to persuade them off. My fan is completely seized - I've taken the tin cover off the front and tried loads of easing oil, persuading with mole grips etc. Finally bought one off ebay which is said to be tested & working for £45 shipped which seems reasonable given that a new one is around £180 or so. If you don't have a copy of RAVE (the digital workshop manual etc) it's well worth getting hold of one as it tells you how to do all these jobs (but was somewhat inaccurate as regards removing the grille on my pre-facelift). RAVE can be downloade free from loads of sites.

component location.pdf tried again......

Hi there, Component location attached. I also have the electrical troubleshooting as pdf but too big to post here - pm me if you need it & I can email it to you. <edit> well tried to attach but that didn't seem to work.....

Do. Had mine for 2.5 years and it's the best car I've had. Loads better than the series 1 V8 it replaced.

It could just be the switch slightly out of adjustment. Mine is similar in Park - I have to push the stick hard forward to get it to register on the dash (or indeed to start). But as it's been like that for 2.5 years and 20,000 miles it doesn't seem too serious.

Mine has never had one since I bought it 2 1/2 years ago and I've never noticed any problems.

It's always worth using as heavy wire as possible as the fridge does take a fair current. I ran a couple of cables from the engine compartment and along the chassis rail on my D2 (fused and with relays of course).

£215.00 / £118.25 if registered before 1 March 2001.

Probably needs bleeding. The full procedure is on the forum the farmer pointed to.

These are probably stored faults and may just be historical. Clear all faults then read again.