IanS

They're not actually pipes just little nipple type things. They get blocked up then the bottom of the aircon unit fills up with condensate which spills over and soaks the carpets. The one on the LHS is carefully positioned just above the notorious XYZ switch on automatics so that it gets a good soaking. I've taken the nipples off mine but fitted a bit of plastic pipe on the LHS to toute the water away from the switch.

The original Land Rover item is the only one I've seen which is the right spec. Around £120 or so from a main dealer. I changed mine earlier this year and the one that came out appeared to be the original. 9 years isn't bad. You need around 110Ah / 800 CCA.

They all have ABS / traction control / HDC. Spec varies depending on trim level as you'd expect. Look for rust on the chassis especially at the back near the spring mounts. Body is usually not too bad. People will tell you to avoid air springs but they're much more comfortable and better for towing.

Bodies rust less as they have many of the rust traps designed out (eg inner wings, boot floor). Plus of course the oldest D2 is 12 years old as opposed to 20 or so for the D1..... D2 chassis are occasionally found to be very rusty but on most it's just on the surface.

I agree with Jim. I had this problem with my D1 if the shoes were adjusted too tight. It's quite alarming as it's a loud rattle.

Battery past its best often causes this as if the voltage after starting is below a certain level you get the M&S flashing. The proper Land Rover item is the best battery as the correct specification is hard to find.

Don't know what "Launch" is but Nanocom / Hawkeye will sort this out.

Not quite. Britannia Rescue will. And at slightly over £110 for 2 drivers fully covered in any car, plus full EU cover for one nominated vehicle, it knocks spots off Mayday and Red Pennant for value. Accepted they don't have the bells & whistles but I'm happy just covering the basics.

TBH, I can't see why putting 1 litre of neat antifreeze should cause any problem. The system holds 13 litres so an extra half litre of a/f (ie the difference between neat and 50%) is only about 54%. According to RAVE, "Anti-freeze concentrations greater than 60% are not recommended as cooling efficiency will be impaired." so 54% would be fine.

Our TD5 auto pulls our Bailey Pageant (1400Kg) like a dream. Have had a couple of problems but not nearly enough to put me off. But having said that, there obviously are some bad ones about - inevitable really given the number produced. And of course it's those you hear about. If you listen to what some people say you wouldn't have bought your Freelander..... Which towcar site was uncomplimentary?

Are you sure you haven't put it on screen clear which runs the fan at top speed? Or manually set the fan speed to max? They are pretty noisy when on full chat.

According to RAVE you have to remove all the side trims etc, but when I did this to my Disco 1 I found I could just slide the carpet out under the trim. Took a bit of wangling to get it back. You do have to remove the little trim strip under the back door though.

I just took the valves off mine after the carpets kept getting soaked on holiday. I did fit a pipe to the N/S one to divert any water away from the XYZ switch on the gearbox.

Check the filter behind the NS rear lights. Mine had got soaking wet and then frozen solid, meaning the pump couldn't suck any air so was stalling and blowing the fusible link. I've now made a little shroud to stop water getting into it (although TBH I can't see how it got in there in the first place).

It actually came from RAVE (google green oval and RAVE) which is the full set of workshop manuals etc.

Hope this helps towbar.pdf

Cut the pipe & put a socket on the nut? That won't help you to get it back on though.....

As I was trying to say before I was rudely interrupted: I used these people who fitted a genuine LR system in my Disco 1 V8 some years ago. They weren't cheap but did a superb job. A bit far from you though.

I used these people

The air should be freezing cold if set to max cooling. The aircon clutch should cycle on and off as the system needs it and you do hear it kicking in and out.

Looks very nice. It's worth mentioning that current advice is to change tyres after a maximum of 7 years regardless of wear as the u/v light attacks them. Apparently.

I'm getting around 24 in my TD5 ES auto in mixed driving.

Could just be an air lock in the system - the V8 needs to be bled through the fill tower above the RHrocker cover (at least that's where it is on the 3.5). The LPG system will should be plumbed into the heater system and this can cause airlocks as well if not properly done.

Well, I bought my 2000 TD5 ES auto in November and have been very pleased with it so far. It is very gruff when it's cold (especially in the recent temperatures) and feels a bit sluggish but only for a mile or so. Once warm, it feels and sounds quite refined to me even after my last V8, and far faster than I had been led to believe. It's easy to lead everyone else off the traffic lights. I did try half a dozen or so beefore I bought this one and there was a lot of variation. My local independent specialist has driven it and said "that's one of the good ones" - so I'd keep looking and trying.

Thanks for the responses - it is becoming more attractive by the minute. As mine is a 2001 it doesn't have a cat to de-cat. It runs very well, starts instantly and is smooth (I did find some oil in the red plug and cleaned it out thoroughly - new injector loom is in the offing). If I can get Ian to reply to my emails I'll go round & see him.......