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About MartinK

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    Edinburgh & Aviemore

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  1. I have a set of almost-new take-offs off the back of my 110 USW. Done ~9000 miles. Yours for £20 plus carriage... Neighbours nice cat not included...she was just checking I had installed the new Koni's properly
  2. You need this linky: http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/handbrake/
  3. It sounds to me like it could be the injector seals leaking...A cheap fix, but a few hours to do...
  4. Well, I bought a set of their Bumperettes for the back of my 110. But I did buy them via a distributor - http://www.4x4overlander.com - I got a decent price (club discount) and good advice from Brendan at 4x4 overlander. Delivery was prompt, and the bumperettes appear to be really good (only been fitted a few months). No instructions...but I didn't really need them for something as simple as bumperettes. Having shopped-around, and spoken to people who know, the Safari Equip Bumperettes do seem to be a really good product, and good value for money - much better than some of the cheapy ones seen on the web.
  5. I have a 2002 D2 with the rear ACE antirollbar still on and complete, just considering taking it off and putting a standard ARB on. We can some to an arrangement if you like (i.e. contribute to the new standard ARB and you can have my ACE one...).
  6. You mentioned the " air mass sensor, (3 month old genuine item)" Is that part MHK100620? I has the similar on my TD5 Disco. On steep hills when loaded the car bogged-down at normal speeds (1800-2200 rpm, top gear), if I changed to 4th gear, and revved it the power was fine, but flat as a pancake at 1800-2200 rpm. It seemed there was lots of BHP, but no torque. We replaced MHK100620 and it's back to normal. Interestingly the fault did not show up on the diagnostics at my local Indie...
  7. I has a similar issue, it was the "upper accelerometer" which was out tolerance. It sits in the plastic pod obove the rear view mirror. After a few other problems, I discarded the ACE altogher. I can confirm that on coil-sprung D2's removing ACE makes no significant difference to handling, but it does prevent warning lights! On that topic. I still have a complete rear ACE ARB - if anyone wants one...
  8. MartinK

    TD5 Gearbox

    I found the R380 relatively easy to fill - it's the transfer box that I struggle with! I managed to get the 1L bottles (decanted from a 4L tub on MTF94) high enough to squeeze the oil into the R380. On the transfer box I bought a Laser (one of these http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=396&item=3847 ) mini pump last time, but it took ages (just didn't dispense fast-enough for the amounts of oil needed - although maybe mine wasn't working right as the instructions say t dispenses 1/3 liter on a fingle stroke...). As M&S says, you need something like this, but a but bigger... A garden sprayer would be better. I now have an air compressor, so I'll be rigging-up something with that next time...
  9. Injector Seals. Exactly sams thing happened to me. One tellytale will be the sound of air bubbles when you prime the car. When you turn-on the ignition, you whould hear the fuel pump prime. If you can hear air bubbles in the fuel, it's likely the Injector Seals... The parts are: O rings - ERR7004; Copper washers - ERR6417. Cost is buttons, but it will take a while to do. If it's under warranty then your luck is in!
  10. I wouldn't worry about the mileage, if it's had a really good service history, 150,000 miles is OK on the engine and drive train. What age is it? 2002 onwards (i.e. the late square-headlight models and the newer "facelift" models) had a lot of improvements, such as the replacement of plastic locating dowels in the head with better metal ones. Have a good look for corrosion - some early D2's are now reporting chassis rust (to the point where welding is needed). Sounds like you know most of the rest: * 3 Amigos - may be just a wheel bearing or an ABS sensor * Wheel bearings are expensive. Guide to replace here: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html - but once done it should be OK for at least 90k miles. * If it's SRS/Air Suspension and ACE, consider binning ACE and getting Coil Springs (when they both become problematic...which the WILL). * If it has a sunroof, it WILL leak * SRS fault is often traced to poor connections, have a google search... If there was a way of getting the car onto a diagnostic, then you would probably pinpoint the 3 Amigos and SRS issues in 5 mins. Solid car, love mine, owned from new now on 181000 miles.
  11. I hope no-one lost money on BCAV. Try the link today: http://www.bikescarsandvans.co.uk/ ...so...yes, too good to be true, apparently!
  12. I have been thinking about a Defender, and now not sure wether to get a last 2.4, or wait till the 2.2.... I wansn't going to buy until April/May 2012, but the reduction in cubes may push me into an early purchase. What do you think?
  13. Interesting mine was like this when the car was new. Second was "notchy" and very slow when the car was cold. Not so bad when the car's warmed-up. As DDO173 says it's a common issue. Try an oil change before you do anything expensive, and refill with MTF94 or buy the (even more expensive) Difflock oil here: http://shop.difflock.com/difflock-evolution-fully-synthetic-gear-litre-p-51.html MTF 94 overcame some of the issues with 'box stiffness - it should move better with MTF than "ordinary" EP90. The Difflock oil is meant to be a step above MTF, Difflock claim it specifically improves the 2nd gear issue (see the link) I bought my MTF from my local LR dealership, the price was OK (you can get it cheaper on t'internet, but after you have paid carriage for 5 litres of oil...). The LR part is STC9157 - so have a look on google, but it's £25-£30 for 5 litres. You need about 3 litres for an oil change (can't quite get 2 changes from a 5 litre can!) Now the car has done 180,000 miles, it's third gear that's now sticky when cold!
  14. When my TD5 fuel pump failed, the car would limp along, but on very limited power - it was also hard to start. It did run, but was obviously fuel starved...and of course there was no sound of the pump priming when the ignition was switched on.
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