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MartinK

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Everything posted by MartinK

  1. I have a set of almost-new take-offs off the back of my 110 USW. Done ~9000 miles. Yours for £20 plus carriage... Neighbours nice cat not included...she was just checking I had installed the new Koni's properly
  2. You need this linky: http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/handbrake/
  3. It sounds to me like it could be the injector seals leaking...A cheap fix, but a few hours to do...
  4. Well, I bought a set of their Bumperettes for the back of my 110. But I did buy them via a distributor - http://www.4x4overlander.com - I got a decent price (club discount) and good advice from Brendan at 4x4 overlander. Delivery was prompt, and the bumperettes appear to be really good (only been fitted a few months). No instructions...but I didn't really need them for something as simple as bumperettes. Having shopped-around, and spoken to people who know, the Safari Equip Bumperettes do seem to be a really good product, and good value for money - much better than some of the cheapy ones seen on the web.
  5. I have a 2002 D2 with the rear ACE antirollbar still on and complete, just considering taking it off and putting a standard ARB on. We can some to an arrangement if you like (i.e. contribute to the new standard ARB and you can have my ACE one...).
  6. You mentioned the " air mass sensor, (3 month old genuine item)" Is that part MHK100620? I has the similar on my TD5 Disco. On steep hills when loaded the car bogged-down at normal speeds (1800-2200 rpm, top gear), if I changed to 4th gear, and revved it the power was fine, but flat as a pancake at 1800-2200 rpm. It seemed there was lots of BHP, but no torque. We replaced MHK100620 and it's back to normal. Interestingly the fault did not show up on the diagnostics at my local Indie...
  7. I has a similar issue, it was the "upper accelerometer" which was out tolerance. It sits in the plastic pod obove the rear view mirror. After a few other problems, I discarded the ACE altogher. I can confirm that on coil-sprung D2's removing ACE makes no significant difference to handling, but it does prevent warning lights! On that topic. I still have a complete rear ACE ARB - if anyone wants one...
  8. I found the R380 relatively easy to fill - it's the transfer box that I struggle with! I managed to get the 1L bottles (decanted from a 4L tub on MTF94) high enough to squeeze the oil into the R380. On the transfer box I bought a Laser (one of these http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=396&item=3847 ) mini pump last time, but it took ages (just didn't dispense fast-enough for the amounts of oil needed - although maybe mine wasn't working right as the instructions say t dispenses 1/3 liter on a fingle stroke...). As M&S says, you need something like this, but a but bigger... A garden sprayer would be better. I now have an air compressor, so I'll be rigging-up something with that next time...
  9. Injector Seals. Exactly sams thing happened to me. One tellytale will be the sound of air bubbles when you prime the car. When you turn-on the ignition, you whould hear the fuel pump prime. If you can hear air bubbles in the fuel, it's likely the Injector Seals... The parts are: O rings - ERR7004; Copper washers - ERR6417. Cost is buttons, but it will take a while to do. If it's under warranty then your luck is in!
  10. I wouldn't worry about the mileage, if it's had a really good service history, 150,000 miles is OK on the engine and drive train. What age is it? 2002 onwards (i.e. the late square-headlight models and the newer "facelift" models) had a lot of improvements, such as the replacement of plastic locating dowels in the head with better metal ones. Have a good look for corrosion - some early D2's are now reporting chassis rust (to the point where welding is needed). Sounds like you know most of the rest: * 3 Amigos - may be just a wheel bearing or an ABS sensor * Wheel bearings are expensive. Guide to replace here: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html - but once done it should be OK for at least 90k miles. * If it's SRS/Air Suspension and ACE, consider binning ACE and getting Coil Springs (when they both become problematic...which the WILL). * If it has a sunroof, it WILL leak * SRS fault is often traced to poor connections, have a google search... If there was a way of getting the car onto a diagnostic, then you would probably pinpoint the 3 Amigos and SRS issues in 5 mins. Solid car, love mine, owned from new now on 181000 miles.
  11. I hope no-one lost money on BCAV. Try the link today: http://www.bikescarsandvans.co.uk/ ...so...yes, too good to be true, apparently!
  12. I have been thinking about a Defender, and now not sure wether to get a last 2.4, or wait till the 2.2.... I wansn't going to buy until April/May 2012, but the reduction in cubes may push me into an early purchase. What do you think?
  13. Interesting mine was like this when the car was new. Second was "notchy" and very slow when the car was cold. Not so bad when the car's warmed-up. As DDO173 says it's a common issue. Try an oil change before you do anything expensive, and refill with MTF94 or buy the (even more expensive) Difflock oil here: http://shop.difflock.com/difflock-evolution-fully-synthetic-gear-litre-p-51.html MTF 94 overcame some of the issues with 'box stiffness - it should move better with MTF than "ordinary" EP90. The Difflock oil is meant to be a step above MTF, Difflock claim it specifically improves the 2nd gear issue (see the link) I bought my MTF from my local LR dealership, the price was OK (you can get it cheaper on t'internet, but after you have paid carriage for 5 litres of oil...). The LR part is STC9157 - so have a look on google, but it's £25-£30 for 5 litres. You need about 3 litres for an oil change (can't quite get 2 changes from a 5 litre can!) Now the car has done 180,000 miles, it's third gear that's now sticky when cold!
  14. When my TD5 fuel pump failed, the car would limp along, but on very limited power - it was also hard to start. It did run, but was obviously fuel starved...and of course there was no sound of the pump priming when the ignition was switched on.
  15. Oooh err correction: "The summit he finally reaches is that of Cnoc an Fhreiceadain (Watch Hill), above Coldbackie, and not Ben Tongue as widely reported at the time."!
  16. It was Ben Tongue: "A steeply-sloping hill on the north coast of Sutherland, Ben Tongue rises to 302m (990 feet) 1¼ miles (2 km) to the east of the Kyle of Tongue Causeway." I think all Landies are good off road (especially where they have low ratio box, and adequate ground clearance). The D3 is made even easier by the Terrain response. I have driven one off road and it really was very good. The one I used was Auto - just point and go - amazing! It was so "point and go" and powerful/comfortable/quiet that I fet quite detatched from the off-roading compared to my manual D2 - where I have much more to think about than "point and go"...! You may like that, or you may not...your preference!
  17. Don't think it was Ben Nevis - it was a much smaller (and quieter!) hill near the top end of Scotland... http://www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/extras/production_notes/disco_up_mountain.shtml
  18. Havre you tried the "priming" process? here's what it says in the manual: It worked for me last time I had a similar issue. Other than that, assuming there's fuel in the tank, it sounds like you are getting air in the fuel system (the above process should purge the air). If the process does not purge the air, uyou have an air leak. Could be anywhere, but likely near the injector area, or the injector seals themselves (as said above)...
  19. I never warmed to the D3, and having driven one a few times, I can agree it's a fantastic car, but just not the Land Rover for me. As such I kept my D2 for almost 10 years, and 180000 miles from new. I now have a 2nd car (xc70) for longer journeys and the D2 is a hobby/weekend care an dalso my workhorse for DIY tasks (of which I have a lot!). After a few test drives, I couldn't quote warm to the D3, or I would have had that as my only car, as it should do all the D2 does, and all the xc70 does... Agree with above, D3 great family car, better legs for long journeys. I like the slightly agricultural D2. D2 should be quite a bit cheaper to run. My D2 will be swapped for a Defender soon I think... probably says it all really!
  20. I think this is what is commonly referred to as the 3 Amigos... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=66222 Usually ABS problems vcaused by worn hub assemblies, but can mean iother things - usually you need to get it hooked up to diagnostics to pinpoint the issue.
  21. TDI easier for the home mechanic to work on, less complex. The niggles for TD5 (such as "3 amigos", ACE problems, front wheel bearing/hub assembly) can add to the cost of ownership. TD5's newer, more refined, later TD5 (after 2001) had lots of niggles sorted. I guess it depends what you want to pay! A 2002/2003 pre-facelift TD5 is a great motor, a facelift arguably better again (but more money).
  22. The indie who does some work on my Disco says the Ford Focus is the lowest "total cost of ownership". Parts are cheap & widely available. His view is that the tyres, batteries, exhaust and brakes will be the cheapest of any car, and "off the shelf" - widely available.
  23. Can you hear the fuel pump priming? Should hear it from the driver's side wheelarch. If the fuel pump is OK, and apparently "priming", try pumping the accelerator pedal several times with the ignition on prior to cranking the engine. Sounds like the Injector seals to me (or the MAF?).
  24. Can you describe it a bit better? Is the starter motor turning the engine over OK? If the starter motor is healthy, but he car won't always "catch" and fiore-up, it could be the injector seals (well that happened to me anyway...). In my instance, the starter was healthy, but I could hear bubbles in the fuel lines (and the fuel pump). If I primed the car several times (pump accelerator pedal as if going through the run-out-of-fuel process), it would cough into life... Injector seals are cheap: O rings - ERR7004 Copper washers - ERR6417 bugger to change tho...
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