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Talyllynman

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by Talyllynman

  1. If my 300TDI is anything to go by the heater seems to be able to absorb all the heat produced by the engine if going slowly or stopped on a freezing day, therefore under these circumstances the engine temperature can drop below normal.
  2. If only the back is in a bad way it may have been used in a similar manner to the one owned by a bloke at the same place I worked at a few years ago. He would reverse the back of his discovery into the sea to launch & recover his speed boat. His view was that providing the engine was kept running to stop the sea water going up the exhaust it would be alright! Ian
  3. Guy, Your pictures are not perfect, but still very useful. Had a look at mine last night. I had realised that there was a void over the wheel arch in the C post, but I hadn't realised that it goes back over the wheel arch. Thank goodness mine is not in the state that yours is in. but your pictures made me investigate and get some treatment in there before it has rusted through. I thought I knew most of the rust spots in a D1, but I didn't know of that one. Ian
  4. Les, Thank you for that. I thought that one tube was for one swivel, and then I noticed that on my copy of Microcat it lists quantity as one, not two. This implied that one tube might do both. You write up on doing the swivel job was most helpful, thank you very much Ian
  5. How much one shot grease am I supposed to put in the steering swivel housing. Is it a full LR squeezy tube, or is that enough for both sides. I assume it does not get filled up to the level of the filling plug. Thanks, Ian
  6. Looked on mine last night when I was changing the brake fluid, and found the valve on the nearside of the engine bay below the washer tank. Ian
  7. Dave, So far as I can see it is part ANR3194. I can't tell from the parts manual where it is, but I do know that the front brake circuits go via it as well, so I doubt it is near the back; probably somewhere in the engine bay. Follow the brake pipes from the master cylinder until you find it. At a guess it may be a G valve, but then again they don't really need to know the front brake pressure, so I can't be certain from the information I have here at work. Good luck Ian
  8. Does any one of a source of pattern radiators that have oil cooler pipe connections of the correct size and spacing? I have been quoted £389.64 for a genuine part, which I am not keen on! Ian
  9. From what I remember the manual on the RAVE disk explains how to remove the roof. I don't have one to hand so I can't be sure though. Ian
  10. There seems to be a theory that adding a lubricant to diesel fuel is a good idea with modern low sulphur fuel to reduce wear in the injection pump. Millers seem to do some, though at the moment I have not found anywhere that stocks it. What do folk use, if anything? Thanks, Ian
  11. Seems to me like you have a late 300tdi from a Discovery that did not have a spider. As I understand it the weak point with the anti theft systems with the spider was that it was possible to hot wire the start/stop solenoid on the pump. Therefore they introduced the three wire one, which could not be hot wired so easily. I believe one wire is negative, one is positive, and the other is some sort of signal to operate the solenoid. As yet I don't know what that signal is. One day I will take the 'scope to my car to check. To complicate matters I believe the parts are held to the pump with tamperproof screws that have to be drilled out. Was this true for yours? Ian
  12. Voltmeter is far more useful than ammeter. Run engine, and check battery voltage is over 14V. Then with engine doing 2000rpm or more, switch on headlamps, HRW etc and check it is still 14V or more. If it is, then alternator is fine. Ian
  13. Take the wire of the top, then use a 12V test lamp. One side of test lamp to battery positive, then touch the other wire onto the glow plug terminal. If the lamp doesn't light the plug is dead. Ian
  14. Not wishing to really state the obvious, but you have bent something on the steering linkage quite alot. If the track rod is straight, then check the steering arms connected to it. Did the thing go onto full lock very hard, because if it did the arms connected to the front link could have bent also. Whatever it is I would suggest you find it before you drive it any more, because it is possible (though not inevitable) that something may now be rather weaker than it was, and weaker than it needs to be. Ian
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