petethepilot

Hello all! I have just finished a 10 month restoration project (me and my dad) of 1989 Cypress green RRC 3,5 Efi, but still have some minor electrics issues needing to be sorted out. In the drivers door there was a remote control unit added into the central door locking system, and after dismantling it I don't seem to find a proper connection to it. The problem is that the car's own wiring has only 4 wires and the solenoid has 5. Evidently one is left unconnected, but which one? The other trick is, that the electrical drawings state that you just connect color to the color, but it changes all the colors in the connectors. And all the wires were cut of course, so not just connecting the plugs... Help would be very appreciated! Feels kind of stupid when you can't lock your brand new car... ;-)

Thank You again, Mr. Western! I just don't get that Microcat working in my computer... :-( Btw, if those seals are still available, the price is outrageous, over 100£ a piece!

Hello! RRC MY1989, FA384252 I'm enquirying part numbers for both side rear window seals. The window between C- & rear corner pillars. Thank You!

Here:http://www.b-gdirect.com/quick-release/QUICKRGP2R3F.html Cheers,

Valves sticking?

In the Land Rover Monthly magazine September 2009 issue there was an illustrated story of fitting one into 300Tdi... If you cant´t get it in your hands and your doing it by yourself, I suppose I could scan that article and send it to your by PM if you wish?

My radiator decided to give up on late Friday night and I had to leave for a journey with my 110Td5 early Saturday morning. All I could get at that time was Allmakes cheapest aluminium/plastic rad. I thought that what the heck, I´ll put it on and buy a decent one when it begins to show marks of giving up. Well, it´s over two years and 35 000km´s ago, and still like new! And they throw a lot of salt on the roads at wintertime in here! So I´m very surprised and satisfied for that cheap deal...

I have a set of those also in my spots, very good otherwise, but when first time switching on takes a long time to become bright, and again if you switch them of for few minutes, they are slow again. That´s because they don´t have any currency preload like the factory ones. Well, cheap and bright and easy to install...

Cheers! Check this: http://www.eliteautomotive.co.uk/

No, mister Cider Drinker, You got that right! But I had exactly the similar problem with my 110 TD5 CSW and it was after programming the new ECU for the car. Got that sorted out with Nanocom. Now that´s why I´m so strongly recommending checking that programming out first before any electrickery jobby . But now it´s time for some friday BEER, so Cheers!

IMHO 300Tdi and TD5 are totally different systems? TD5 is controlled by Alarm ECU and is programmable via cars ECU. Try programming that interior light to the alarm system first before doing anything else. That´s just what is does if the interior light is not programmed to work with the alarm. If I recall it´s called SMART option in interior light programming menu.

Hi! You´ll have to program them to work by using T4 or Nanocom. Don´t mess around with wiring!

I have RRC seats front and rear, I´m a dry summer´s squirrel... they are heated and comfy and nice! I think they are the best addition for the car. Fronts are easy to install and they slide enough rearwards that you will get to the battery if needed.

Mine neither, it´s totally something else! (Obviously haven´t been around with Land Rovers long enough...)

I would also call that a bit exaggeration overdone!

Probably a lot more, but kinda crowded under the hood...

Hi! If you´ll take the Economical option on the ViaMichelin from Calais to Grenada, it will give you this: Costs 174.27 EUR Toll 0.00 EUR | Petrol 174.27 EURTime26h37 which 07h36 on motorwaysDistance1935 km which 764 km on motorways Looks like a good mixmatch to me...

Those cracked heads can be TIG- welded, then uniformly heated, machined and tested. Mine cost about 300£ and the company that did the welding gives a warranty for their job! And it was badly cracked... the reason was a failed radiator! So after all the new seals for the head including injector seals the total cost was around 500£, labor self provided . After the job I have driven 35 000Km with 1.3 Bar (19 Psi) boost pressure without a problem... But yes, do sniff the oil for the leaks and buy the car from the dealer with warranty!

Have been thinking about this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VesPz_MgWUc Once and for all enough power, torque and tuning capability! Well, heavy, thursty and big! But still the sound...

Hmmm... Look out for cracked/overheated cylinder heads, or indications that the radiator has been changed. Make sure the oil changes have been made regularly and the right kind of oil is used. TD5´s are very sensitive on wrong kinds of oils and filters, and the overheating problems thus leading to cylinder head gasket failure/cylinder head cracking and warping are not so rare. They are usually related to radiator failure, or something else coolant circulation related, not a design fault as itself. Fuel pressure regulators tend to leak, but it´s not worrying, only annoying. TD5 is reliable, ECU-controlled engine with a very good tuning potential. Some people here and generally prefer 200/300Tdi´s over TD5´s, but actually now days there is so much experience with those engines, that preventative maintenance knowledge is widely obtainable, and they have proved themselves reliable engines. It is true that due to being ECU-controlled engine, it´s more prone to electric ECU- or sensor-related problems, but if you browse through this forum, one can see that it really isn´t a problem. But the real downside compared to 200Tdi is fuel economy. TD5´s are thursty! But otherwise more refined modern engine and a bit quieter too. I would say go for it! P.S I recently saw a 500 000Km driven TD5 engine, which was already burning some oil and was thus opened and overhauled. The engine was in surprisingly good condition, bearings quite OK, pistons good, you could actually see the machining grooves still on the cylinders, but piston rings were somewhat worn out. Not bad IMHO!

I also think that the problem is the oil! Td5 is very sensitive for the right kind of the oil. The only oil to be used in Td5´s is the Castrol SLX Professional Longtec for Volvo cars A5/B5 0W-30. My friend has a LR Garage and he said that practically all the problems in Td5´s are due to a wrong oils. That said oil is quite expensive, but on the turn side you´ll get a 20 000Km oil change interval. I have also discussed with LR factory Engineers about this issue and they also said that this is the oil to be used on Td5´s. My 110 CSW Td5 has over 230 000 Km on her and from 17-19 000 km´s after an oil change it usually needs a 1 litre refill, and then it´s an indication that the oil´s viscosity is poor and it´s dirty, so it´s time for an oil change! Also use proper good quality oil filters, original or Coopers, and make sure that the centrifugal filter has also been changed. The oil pressure problems may also be caused by a poor quality oil filter. Change the oil filter on every oil change! The centrifugal oil filter change interval is 60 000Km´s, if I remember correctly, but make sure it has been changed. And btw. it´s not that hard to change or that difficult, that you shouldn´t do it if not sure. If these will not cure the problem, then it´s oil pump related or more severe, but that´s where to start. Cheer´s

Grooved & drilled discs, EBC, Ferodo or other Racing quality brake pads, good quality racing brake fluid (Castrol SRF is the best) and braided stainless steel brake hoses. Then complete overhaul for the brakes: new seals, check and clean the pistons and replace if necessary. Then you will have sufficient brakes! It´s typical for the Defender, that the rear brake pistons get stuck, thus deteriorating the braking power of the car, and also makes the brakes feel hard, that´s why the overhaul is vital especially in the rear. The result are soft, very agile brakes with a lot of stopping power, very consistent because brake fading is virtually non-existent. That should be enough, after that it really starts to become expensive; larger discs, 8-pot calipers, larger wheels etc...

Hi! I have those in my Defenders RRC velour seats, they suit just fine, and seem to be very effective. They do take some time to heat up though! Mine had a built in thermostat which I removed. My friend has a LR garage and they have been installing those a lot and they said that those are not very effective with the thermostat, because it keeps the temperature too low for those thick RRC seat fabrics. But there are two sorts of those, and if I recall, the newer ones have the thermostat. It´s easy to take them off and join the wires together again. So go for it!

I´ll have to say that in my opinion the nearest metric equal to 7.5X16 or 7.50 is 205/85R16, old tires even used to have both markings side by side if I remember correctly...

Luckily I misspelled it...so actually I didn´t either call it initiativeness!