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tweetyduck last won the day on September 20 2017

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About tweetyduck

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    Overland Panic !!!!!

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    Left Again, Evacuated Back. Bloody Corona.

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  1. Now then that throws a cat amongst the pigeons......they are rounded corners but take the square bottom glass.....
  2. I forgot i wrote this ages ago. Should have posted it here.... Disconnect battery Using the diagram(s) showing the six way switch. Get to the back of the six way. Find the two red wires. Get to the back of the six way. Find the Blue Wire Get to the back of the six way. Find the Brown Wire Get to the back of the six way. Find the Brown/White Wire Cut off the six way. Completely remove it. Tape up the Red/Brown Wire (you can still feed this with a switch and live to make the convoy light at the rear work) Might be good for a work light?? Extend the Brown wire to behind the speedo (LIVE) Extend the Blue wire to behind the speedo (POS2) Connect the two Red wires and extend to behind the speedo (POS1) Behind the speedo and steering column – Fit new switch. Connect the wires above to new switch in correct positions Running the 3 extended wires can be done behind the black plastic dash tray with the main loom. I just used some 2.5 which is plenty big enough. Overkill really You really need Yellow crimps for this. Everything is still fused as originally. If you swap to LEDs at any point drop the fuse ratings to half.
  3. I use DYNAX UB on mine as i'm too lazy to prep it. So its just sprayed or brushed on. I use DYNAX S50 inside the cavities.
  4. To address the long term test which i saw before about when his last update was....4 year gap is longer in duration than the actual test updates which was about a years worth....maybe it "failed"....we will never know. Plus the test was what, three of his products and one or to other real metal paints and then products nobody would use. The Red Oxide looked pretty good to me...LOL I still hold that any good metal paint with good prep will work. Some Auto paint will work with NO prep or minimal. His stuff is expensive for zero reason and requires some serious prep.
  5. Yes that one. To be honest, as i said, ANY paint meant for metal will work as well (or as badly depending on make) as this one. There are plenty of REAL chassis paint systems out there. The pictures posted of a well prepared and painted chassis have no bearing on how well it works long term. You could paint it with Dulux and it would look great on day one. As i said if it were any good one of the car manufacturers would use it.....
  6. Chemically any wash will do but i'd get a proper paint for vehicles.....TBF if the rebadged stuff he was punting (and i know too well who makes it) was an good someone like Audi would use it.
  7. I'd not use Buzzweld as its not meant for chassis at all. Its just a guy re purposing other paint. To be honest any prep and paint works but you really want something with some elasticity and that the affor mentioned doe NOT have. So although chemicals are same same his paint is not evidenced by the vanishing (erased from history by him) long term test he was doing.
  8. Thanks. thats as i thought. I just wondered if i'd missed anything. To be honest what i'm after is confirmation the glass is the same in all the doors. I think theres 4mm and 5mm floating around as there is with the Alpines. Heated and not but all should be the same size i reckon. Some had high level brake lights and such but physically i think same size.
  9. I stuck in a USB charger with volt meter in it. I got a good one so the voltage is spot on. I've got three volt gauges now USB Gauge , SOLAR Remote Diag Panel and the Madman...LOL
  10. Other than the Puma how many types of tailgate doors are there? The square bottom one is on all previous Defenders right the way back to who knows when, aren't they? There are some slight variations for heated glass, wash wipe and high level break lights but other than that aren't they all the same? All glazed internally? Was there even any big difference to the physical door even with other trim levels or was it just the same door?
  11. its not travelling as all it seems. Just spining
  12. motor just spins...solenoid does not "punch out" the spinning bit. So it just sits there spinning. Never engages with flywheel as its just spinning.
  13. Heck is a long time since i've needed to ask you Gurus anything. Intermittently my Starter spins but doesn't punch out. Upon removal it works perfectly on the bench when using a battery jump leads. I've cleaned up the insides and lubricated the solenoid with Graphite spray and its doing it again. Its of course a 24V but i doubt that makes any difference. The flywheel teeth look fine, as does the teeth on the motor. Question is, i suppose is that within the wiring on a 300Tdi would this (spin but no punch out) happen for ANY other reason other than it being the starter itself. By this i mean could the ignition switch, associated wiring or Starter Relay ever be able to make a motor spin but not punch out? I think not but i'm going to ask anyhow
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