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tweetyduck last won the day on September 20 2017

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    Left Again, Evacuated Back. Bloody Corona.

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  1. They do seem to be slightly longer that stock so that is the issue. You might get away with it on most Landies but they are theoretically bottoming before it hits the stops on mine. A slightly taller turret would do the trick. The stock are 327mm closed. Add on two bushes and your at 350 and the distance is 390 min on hitting the stops. So that's all good. the konis are a tad longer so It may be they were hitting. I will measure the length when they are off again tomorrow.
  2. Oh ..and my two front shocks are fooked......Koni HT Raids .... 70,000km and toast so I need some Africa specials on Monday. No way to rebuild em here. I recon they are too long for my truck and the adjustable mechanism is smashed to pieces. Other that that they do actually look perfect. Very light damping so anything will be better. Rears are fine though.
  3. Yeah it's a new dayco belt. The idler I will pull out in a few days as it's buried in my parts locker. I think it's a blue box.🙄 No chance here I think of anything else I went yesterday and asked in only parts place in namibia. I have two tensioners as when we got chance I bought the thing I thought was not INA on my list and got the wrong one....so two INA tensioners now and I still have the potentially ****ty idler .. I did swear when I realised. Note to myself to put manufacturers on my parts list on important stuff!
  4. 300tdi timing belt. I have all the bits but not quite. Is the tensioner and idler specifically required to be changed at every one? I have two INA tensioners so that's fine. The Idler I have a pattern unknown one 🙄 The one on now is a INA. So should I leave it be and not change the idler. What you think? Change both...stop being paranoid? It was last done 70,000 kilometres. I'm doing it at that which is 43,000 miles. I Always turn miles into kilometre intervals it's 38% sooner. So a 70,000 mile interval becomes 70,000km for me. Do everything same way.
  5. The oil is specified generally as used for ZF 16K or ZF 01L or 02L very loosely. The Honda's specs have been superseded to Honda MTF II generally speaking. The problem is the lower temp viscosity with most of the 75w80 oils. Many are way too thick at cooler temps.
  6. The MTF spec was revised slightly in 2020. I posted the sheets in another thread.
  7. BOT402 is nothing like MTF94. It's way way too thick. The only oil in South Africa which is compatible and generally available is the Ravenol MTF2 which is approved. The other alternative is Liquid Moly Top Tech 5200 in the GL4 version not the older 3+ version. I would urge extreme caution using BOT402 if you go anywhere vaguely cold like leshoto. It might just be tolerated in the hot but if it's cool you will ruin your box.
  8. Question... What effect would low popping pressure have? All injectors were equal. Spray good. Detrimental or not?
  9. All injectors on the truck tested. All good. Slightly low pressure on all equally which is strange....old 4 from my box got new tips and 3 were resurrected from dribbling squirting rubbish to popping atomising magnificent status. Even correct pressure or there abouts. The last one was not working. Out of them all they are all shimmed and some had 2 shims in and some one shim all various thicknesses usually about 1mm. Some 1.5mm. I cannot figure out which shim size they are from the info online so cannot buy replacements. Any body have an idea? IIRC They are 2.8mm hole and 7 point something mm diameter. None of the ones online seem to be that size. YouCut_20201225_111357891.mp4
  10. Thanks for that. That's is exactly what i needed to know. This type of info is marvellous indeed ! Based on info to come will determine what i need to do for sure. Testing the leak back is just a case of popping it and letting it sit. Is that correct. Let it sit and nothing drops?
  11. super thanks. I've got new nozzles which are DTP replacement and meant to be very good ones so i will just test the opening as all i can do. I wonder what difference the second stage makes and if being way out is really bad.....in case it was...
  12. i think i've got to an answer on the first bit. The Initial pressure is the one the POP tester will show and you need a super expensive electronic one to test the other figure. Still wondering how you adjust anything !?
  13. Trying to do my own. How did you go on with a standard pop tester?
  14. I got some DTP nozzles. I don't have access to a pop tester (yet). We are working on that. I mechanically minded friend in South Africa is going to buy one and i will pay half. Which bits/parts set the pressure in this injector? There doesn't seem to be anything in the 300Tdi holder to set up. Normally its a shim i think but they don't have one if i recall. There's two pressures listed in the book. 2940PSI Initial and 4120PSI Secondary. I've not idea what the two figures mean. Don't they normally open and spray at one pressure so which one is it? Seems strange there's two.... If you can point me at any info as i've googled and there's some generic bench strip, cleaning and rebuild but i'd like to know what i'm doing in a little more depth. I'd also like to test it properly. The nozzles are like £17 so its worth buying a pop tester if you only do one injector !
  15. yes he does. Mark managed to get off the impeller so will ask what he did. Mike said he'd never got one off in the video.
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