tweetyduck
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Posts posted by tweetyduck
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I also found bushes and bolts ! Allmakes bushes so OK and new 8.8 bolts. Some places still carry spares although it's getting harder each year.
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Tips and more tips. After 4 engineering places I found one. 16mm with 12mm shank. 3 shops only had 13mm. I had a cone cutter so it might have worked as you say but I got it done. Just driven away from the workshop. Had to remove the steering bar and steering protection to get to it but not too bad. They even gave me a sheet of cardboard to lay on. I paid him £3 and he wanted nothing. Only used the drill bit as I have a battery drill. We've used the place before as they have a press in fact we've had other overlanders go there for all sort. So I now know all about panhard rods. 🤔
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4 hours ago, tweetyduck said:
Am I correct that the "forged" one is 30mm and the tubular one is 35mm ?
I vaguely remember reading that on here.
The tubular one is certainly 30mm.....the cast one I think is 25mm.
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So the plot grows thicker with every second passing. When the guys in Angola did my conversion from right hand drive to left hand drive they obviously needed to change the cast brackets underneath the LHD power steering box. The casting is the newer type from a TD5/Puma so has a 16mm hole in the casting. It also follows the panhard rod they swapped is also the newer type (of the tubular variety) which means it has the newer bushes at each end with a 16mm hole in the bush. Yet not surprisingly the guys in Angola decided to use the 14mm bolts, probably because the axle mounting hole is 14mm but the bush is 16mm. The 16mm bolts wouldn't have gone through so they used the 14mm bolts (on both ends 🙄). So I have a panhard rod with a 16mm bushes, an axle with a 14mm holes in it and casting with 16mm holes in it and 14mm bolts in both ends. So I need to buy new rated 16mm x 80 bolts (in Africa!) and some new bushes because the bushes don't look good. Drill the axle hole up to 16mm. Now I do have a drill with me but as we all know a normal electric drill can't cope with a 16mm drill bit so I don't really know how I'm gonna do that unless I can find a reduced shank one that's meant for a domestic drill. All in Africa....
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Am I correct that the "forged" one is 30mm and the tubular one is 35mm ?
I vaguely remember reading that on here.
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Ok so they made the tube one straight obviously different bushes and bolt also I think.
Did the solid one come in straight? I think it did. Although I cannot seem to get a straight answer. 🤣🤣
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Can someone confirm I'm not crazy. Hard task I know. Thanks.
Was a RHD panhard rod straight and the LHD one has the diff bend. The LHD fits either but the RHD one being straight does not. It was straight, right....?
Secondary but less important question....
Then later they went to 35mm tube not sold 30mm and only made the 35mm tube one in the bent version. (Edit seems also in straight) this question answered. 👍
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It's been years in the making. Finally switched over. Fan impeller is opposite and motor spins other way.
Video on subject.
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Am I correct in saying Dura Automotive was Adwest at the end pretty much? I'm converting my Pulse to Left Hand Drive (in Angola of all places) and the box they had removed from another defender is a Dura. I will attach a pic of the plate on the box. It doesn't seem to be leaking unlike mine which took 4 litres of engine oil and ep80/90 to get me here. The three Teflon seals on the input pinion seemingly gone and nobody had them, so rather than buy a box I decided to kick start my LHD conversion a little early.
The truck it came off
SALLDHAF81A612481
Im also wondering if the later plastic heater matrix units are ok as the donor is also giving me that item. The dash is coming from at least 3 other vehicles where Ive selected the best bits off 300Tdi and I've not opted for the later square vent cover version as it's not what the truck came with.
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They do seem to be slightly longer that stock so that is the issue. You might get away with it on most Landies but they are theoretically bottoming before it hits the stops on mine. A slightly taller turret would do the trick.
The stock are 327mm closed. Add on two bushes and your at 350 and the distance is 390 min on hitting the stops. So that's all good.
the konis are a tad longer so It may be they were hitting. I will measure the length when they are off again tomorrow.
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Oh ..and my two front shocks are fooked......Koni HT Raids .... 70,000km and toast so I need some Africa specials on Monday. No way to rebuild em here. I recon they are too long for my truck and the adjustable mechanism is smashed to pieces. Other that that they do actually look perfect. Very light damping so anything will be better.
Rears are fine though.
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Yeah it's a new dayco belt. The idler I will pull out in a few days as it's buried in my parts locker. I think it's a blue box.🙄 No chance here I think of anything else I went yesterday and asked in only parts place in namibia. I have two tensioners as when we got chance I bought the thing I thought was not INA on my list and got the wrong one....so two INA tensioners now and I still have the potentially ****ty idler .. I did swear when I realised. Note to myself to put manufacturers on my parts list on important stuff!
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300tdi timing belt. I have all the bits but not quite. Is the tensioner and idler specifically required to be changed at every one?
I have two INA tensioners so that's fine. The Idler I have a pattern unknown one 🙄
The one on now is a INA. So should I leave it be and not change the idler. What you think? Change both...stop being paranoid?
It was last done 70,000 kilometres. I'm doing it at that which is 43,000 miles. I Always turn miles into kilometre intervals it's 38% sooner. So a 70,000 mile interval becomes 70,000km for me. Do everything same way.
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On 12/30/2020 at 1:05 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
I've also seen it listed for Honda + Rover cars, I don't know if it's a common gearbox manufacturer - the Freelander used it and that was (I think) a Getrag box.
The oil is specified generally as used for ZF 16K or ZF 01L or 02L very loosely. The Honda's specs have been superseded to Honda MTF II generally speaking. The problem is the lower temp viscosity with most of the 75w80 oils. Many are way too thick at cooler temps.
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On 12/18/2020 at 11:06 AM, Alsace_rangie said:
Castrol BOT 402 seems to be obsolete, at least in Europe. And as far as I can see was not MTF-94 compliant, higher viscosity https://lsg-gh.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/bot-402.pdf
However on checking the data on the Ravenol site, MTF-2 (not MTF-1) is stated as MTF 94 compliant. Not clear if that's the old or new MTF-94 spec, the newer spec is slightly less viscous and came in sometime after 2010.
Available in Germany, but can't find it in France. Can get it delivered but that drives up the cost a little bit.
So another good option!
The MTF spec was revised slightly in 2020. I posted the sheets in another thread.
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On 12/18/2020 at 6:50 AM, JohnnoK said:
I use Castrol BOT402, which is the equivalent for the MTF94.
MIDAS, MASTERPARTS etc should all sell it.
You can also go with the RAVENOL MTF-1 75W85, which is listed as a BOT402 equivalent. Call Freddie Stafford at Ravenol (021 447 3142), he will set you right, and they deliver anywhere in SA. It's also available in Europe, being a German product.
BOT402 is nothing like MTF94. It's way way too thick. The only oil in South Africa which is compatible and generally available is the Ravenol MTF2 which is approved. The other alternative is Liquid Moly Top Tech 5200 in the GL4 version not the older 3+ version.
I would urge extreme caution using BOT402 if you go anywhere vaguely cold like leshoto. It might just be tolerated in the hot but if it's cool you will ruin your box.
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Question...
What effect would low popping pressure have? All injectors were equal. Spray good. Detrimental or not?
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All injectors on the truck tested. All good. Slightly low pressure on all equally which is strange....old 4 from my box got new tips and 3 were resurrected from dribbling squirting rubbish to popping atomising magnificent status. Even correct pressure or there abouts. The last one was not working. Out of them all they are all shimmed and some had 2 shims in and some one shim all various thicknesses usually about 1mm. Some 1.5mm. I cannot figure out which shim size they are from the info online so cannot buy replacements. Any body have an idea? IIRC They are 2.8mm hole and 7 point something mm diameter. None of the ones online seem to be that size.
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1 hour ago, oneandtwo said:
I have just removed and tested sixteen 300tdi injectors out of engines I removed from scrap discos some time ago. Out of these sixteen, only three were anything like reusable with good spray patterns and first stage crack off at between 194 and 197bar, and a long leakback duration. All the rest had poor spray patterns or were not cracking off correctly. I will strip a few and ultrasonically clean them and see if any can be resurrected at some point - new nozzles would sort out the majority.
I would think that a correct spray pattern and first stage pressure would be a good indication that the injector was reasonably good without having them tested on a two stage tester
They do have a two shim washers however they don’t appear to be adjustable with different shims - all the ones I stripped have identical washers.
Thanks for that. That's is exactly what i needed to know. This type of info is marvellous indeed !
Based on info to come will determine what i need to do for sure. Testing the leak back is just a case of popping it and letting it sit. Is that correct. Let it sit and nothing drops?
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super thanks. I've got new nozzles which are DTP replacement and meant to be very good ones so i will just test the opening as all i can do.
I wonder what difference the second stage makes and if being way out is really bad.....in case it was...
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i think i've got to an answer on the first bit. The Initial pressure is the one the POP tester will show and you need a super expensive electronic one to test the other figure.
Still wondering how you adjust anything !?
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On 10/26/2018 at 7:00 PM, oneandtwo said:
Thanks. It seems that although the tester is all singing, all dancing, it still requires a hideously expensive add on module for testing the second stage opening pressure.., still, at least I can measure the first stage, leakback and pattern then match up a set of them.
cheers!
Trying to do my own. How did you go on with a standard pop tester?
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I got some DTP nozzles. I don't have access to a pop tester (yet). We are working on that. I mechanically minded friend in South Africa is going to buy one and i will pay half.
Which bits/parts set the pressure in this injector?
There doesn't seem to be anything in the 300Tdi holder to set up. Normally its a shim i think but they don't have one if i recall. There's two pressures listed in the book. 2940PSI Initial and 4120PSI Secondary. I've not idea what the two figures mean.
Don't they normally open and spray at one pressure so which one is it? Seems strange there's two....
If you can point me at any info as i've googled and there's some generic bench strip, cleaning and rebuild but i'd like to know what i'm doing in a little more depth. I'd also like to test it properly.
The nozzles are like £17 so its worth buying a pop tester if you only do one injector !
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1 hour ago, Sigi_H said:
I saw that videos from Britannica Restorations and he mentioned that there are 2 types of impellers. He even demonstrates the effect of a wrong impeller (believe in part3) and the polarity with a sheet of paper.
He also mentions, that it is almost impossible to get the impeller off to exchange it.
yes he does. Mark managed to get off the impeller so will ask what he did. Mike said he'd never got one off in the video.
Panhard rods
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Got genuine on order via a mule from a different country. Thanks.