tweetyduck

White90, obviously not following the other thread. My spanners have been flying for the last few months.

to be honest i'm sort of more bothered about whats wrong with it than getting it fixed. Guessing its the trans box or gear box would be pretty costly. If i can get the gargage to tell me for £25 what it is i can then make the descision on if i should do it myself. Not forgetting its a bit chunk of metal to remove with no equipment. I'm not worried about doing it apart from dropping it all out if its the full thing. Plus i;m not sure the wife would entertain the tow. Not a chance.

Anyone have a flat back or way they can get me to RCV (Doncaster Country Vehicles) in Kirk Sandal in Doncaster. Willing to pay beer tokens and it would possibly need to be week after Easter as i need to book it in and they are busy. My transmission is knackered and Fred Cam wants £75 !! for about 9 - 10 miles. I might risk a drive but can only really manage 2nd gear. The Engine runs fine in neutral so my brakes work so a tow (although i've never done it for this distance) might work. Eternal gratitude for offers or pointers to somewhere cheaper.

Can't get out of H on the low ratio/diff lock leaver. Not even sure it will go into N. I'm no expert on the "normal" operation of this as i've used it like twice. (thats so noob ) Plus the below. nasty noises in 3rd. Possibly they are there in 2nd and 1st. But seems to drive in 1st and reverse without concerning me where as i get into 2nd and get worried...and in 3rd i sort of think this isn't right and i'm doing damage. Not perticularly loud noises just doesn't feel right and there is certainly a grinding. Actually feels like its below but infront of the stick so could be front diff but that would be in any gear i think. I really need someone with more experience than me to drive it. I drove it 3 or 4 times since i did the swivels/bearings and for only about 5 miles on each trip,,,, i could have done something. Although it made it 30 miles on the motorway before the noises mentioned below made me stop. Thus highlighing the Alternator as i couldn't start it again once i'd stopped. (thanksfully in services) Made it about another 20 miles back before the below made me stop for good. Although the failiure happened at the same time as the alternator and i'm convinced they are not related. There was a squeeling from the engine bat at certain revs then there was the rattling sound like a penny in a washing machine. That stopped and then the loss of mechanical power. Sort of a jerk and then picked back up. This progressivle got to the stage where i didn;t want to go past third so i stopped for good. I've not drive it since other than round the block in 1,2 and even 2nd seems dodgy. Hopefully someone might have an idea. Thanks

Old one 61 and new 49. My confusion.. Currently fitted small 49mm pully with shorter belt. That should be OK surely.

Thanks Mike, to be honest i need to go out and measure the wheel as i'm convinced its smaller than 49mm which seemed to be the size on the one i removed. I need to check both and i'll report later. Currently sat in a car park doing this on my phone! BTW they want £75 to take the 110 on a flat back about 10 miles. Seems pricy. Does anyine know anybody in Doncaster with a transporter?

Aragorn, since the Alternator came with that pully/wheel i'd presume its designed for the generated speeds anyhow. This seems to be a bit a grey area. I've seen pages of posts here and there with numerous opinions on the subject and some quite heated arguments.. .. My main concern is the belt and not the spin speed as it came with the pully, was designed for a LR so it must be fine. If i changed the pully the output will go down as you suggest due to the lower gearing (not wanting to start another argument on this subject ) So I think i've done the cautious thing as swapping the pully is surely affecting the design on the unit. I'm sure there's no wrong or right here but as long as my Alternator and Belt run for the normal serivicable life i'm happy. The concern is i've not considered everything and my vehicle will kill all its occupants in an Alternator disaster of biblical proportions..... p.s is there a way to test to removed unit. Tried a drill (to spin it up) and a volt meter but no V output. Either its faulty or it needs a load ? p.s.s Ralph and Mike. Thanks for the help. I've now seen the other forums where you've both posted. Food for thought....i might be buying a ring spanner on the weekend!

http://www.landrovernet.com/forum/showthread.php/89153-300tdi-Alternator-Defender-Disco-Are-they-the-same hmmm?

OK so i completely ignored both Ralph and Mike..... ...and i've fitted it with the small wheel. Might as well as i had both belts to hand. I might very well swap them if someone can tell me why a 300Tdi Aternator from a Disco (AMR5425) has the smaller wheel? And since my 300Tdi IS out of a Disco which belt I would use if it were still in the Disco??? Tried the old longer belt first and its seemed OK but the tried a new 15mm shorter one. It looked like the large wheel and the longer belt did visually before i took it off. i.e Tensioner wheel seemed to be in same position. So i stuck with that. The tensioner is a spring so the tension should be the same irrespective of long or short belt if my Physics is accurate as a spring exerts the same force along most of its extension. The short belt just seemed 100%. Am i a lunatic? BTW the 110 is dead anyhow as theres something seriously worng in the transmission. Its going to have to go into the Gargage on the back of a Lorry. Wouldn't make it on its own.

Thanks guys, Thats the wiring sorted. Now for the belt. The larger wheel on my old Alt had the longer belt. So the smaller wheel on the new Alt should need the slightly shorted belt. Its only 15mm difference which i reccon is perfect. Plus the fact i don't have the ring spanner to get the damn thing off so i'm going to see if it fits. Someones done this before surely without changing the wheel?

I'm gonna ask this here and also in the parts request place. I'm sure this may generate a lot of opinion so i'd like to see what others have done. Sorry for cross posting but not many people seem to respond in parts, except the loyal few. My Alternator failed so its being replaced with an 100A Denso AMR5425 G. The old one has a bigger wheel than the new one. So the 100A alternator has a smaller wheel on it. Should i go with it as is and go for the shorter belt or should i swap the wheels and use the same belt as per the old setup??? The belt on the old one was a 1595 and i have both lengths of belt in my hand just in case (i.e 1595 and 1580). My thinking is the unit is designed for the smaller wheel so use the one fitted as manufactured and use a shorter belt. I'm presuming the shorted belt is designed for the smaller wheel??? Also whats B+ , D+ and W ????as the old one only had two wires on it a thick one and a thin one.

I'm gonna ask this here and also in the defender forum. The 100A alternator has a smaller wheel on it. Should i go with the one fitted and go for the shorter belt or should i swap the wheels and use the same belt as per the old setup. The belt on the old one was a 1595 and i have both lengths of belt (i.e 1595 and 1580). My thinking is the unit is designed for the smaller wheel so use the one fitted as manufactured and use a shorter belt. I'm presuming the shorted belt is designed for the smaller wheel???

I'm learing that an adjustable spanner is mandatory. I just wish i'd known about the prop bolts before i did the UJs last week. Slow job with the wrong spanners.

Just found a dealer on ebay that does the diodes and brush modules. Look in the parts request forum for my alternator post. Should be near the top. Hope that helps as they aren't easily obtained (from anywhere) by all accounts.

now to find one for cheap.....yorkshire ahoy. £16 is a bit pricy.

290371218415 ebay item. what do you think?

thanks.

this is the most dumbass question ever. Whats the part code for the belt that goes with my new Alternator? Might as well change it for a new one. Should i change the tensioner as well and if so whats the part code for that?

thanks Ralph.

thanks VM. Marrelli fitted at the moment. Might sell it with new bushes. Any idea of te part for that little screw on module with the diode inside and the brushes sticking out?

yes free as anything

so thats another piece of potentially useless knowledge in my head. Thanks . I should just know that i don't need to know. ABS...i wish.

it could have been just that (good point!) but theres something definatly wrong with the transmission. Coincidence certainly but the alternator is not delivering current and the tranmission is making strange noises. I've got no belt on now so don't think starting it is a good idea. I've removed the alternator and the brush is worn down so i could just replce that and see if it works but i might as well replace it with 100amp (needed anyhow). Once i;ve done that i'll diagnose the tranmission problem i think. Bit scared to drive it now as for one the bettery is almost flat and i don;t really want to break down just down the road and leave it vunerable to theft till i can get the gargage to come to pick it up.

AMR5425 G is this the one i should get? Denso should be OK right? Island 4x4 link

is the abs ring the teeth round the outside? Is that to splash the oneshot? Wondered why mine didn't have them, not that i have ABS of course?