tweetyduck

@Mike No, but i will now. I'd only had look in the end of the sub axle and the grease in there looks OK. Infact i'd say it was reasonably new. I just wonder if its worth stripping it down and replacing all the seals and the swivel ball and bearings. The Garage want £528 to do it which i think is a bit steep for something i can do myself. It looks very easy. The two tuts on here for changing the balls are great and the haynes manual has a pretty good description. 2 FTC4785 HUB OIL SEAL INNER Brand New (Genuine) 2 FTC3179 STUB AXLE NUT LOCK WASHER Brand New (Genuine) 2 571752 AXLE DRIVE MEMBER GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 2 FRC7065 SWIVEL HOUSING ASSY Brand New (Replacement OEM) 2 FTC3401 CHROME BALL SWIVEL OIL SEAL Brand New (Genuine) 2 FTC3646 CHROME BALL TO AXLE CASE GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 4 606666 BOTTOM SWIVEL PIN BEARING Brand New (Genuine) 2 FTC3648 FRONT STUB AXLE GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 3 STC3435S SWIVEL HOUSING GREASE SACHET Brand New (Replacement) 2 FTC3276 OIL SEAL SWIVEL HOUSING INNER Brand New (Genuine) 2 FRC2894 LOWER SWIVEL PIN Brand New (Replacement) 2 FTC2882 SWIVEL PIN UPPER NON ABS Brand New (Replacement) 2 FTC3647 LOWER SWIVEL PIN GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 2 FRC2885 SHIM SWIVEL PIN 0.01MM Brand New (Replacement) 2 FRC2886 SWIVEL PIN SHIM 0.03 Brand New (Replacement) 4 STC4382 HUB BEARING - OEM Brand New (Replacement TIMKIN)

Are these bad enough to warrant a change? (see pic) The seals don't seem to be leaking and they do seem to have been done by the previous owner.

Thanks everyone. @M&S That 4x4 trolly looks just the ticket. It might not last long but its also not that expensive. Plus i have a credit note for halfords to use! Except the local Halfords doesn't stock it. The next nearest does and its not far. Off to the store.

thanks all good advice. I'll have a hunt around to see what i can get for reasonable money. Sounds like Armstrong would be OK though, if thats the OE one.

couldn't find a LR jack so got a bottle jack for £14 with a 4 tonne rating. It not high enough to raise the car so back to the origional question. How high does it need to be? How high does the standard one go? I'm trying to jack as per westons advice (and using common sense) the radius arm is ~400mm in the air and most jacks only go up to 380mm ish (lets skip the block of wood advice shall we)

Not limiting myself its purely because thats what LRSeries have in stock and i'm ordering as much as i can from one place. Used a few places and this time LRSeries are the only place with one of the parts (a stupid plastic clip) so i might as well get the lot there. Price is OK but no specific reason. Thanks Guys.

£64.03 or £13.21 What do you think? Anyone have any horror stories of Armstrong? One of the other forums had a couple of posts that said they are OK.

@Reb. Thanks. yes Mike mentioned that so it sounds like thats what i need. Now i just need to find one!

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've been to Machine Mart to check out the options and now know what i need. I'll see what i can get off Ebay although the 15 Tonne bottle is only £14 or something. Don't need it right now so i'll order one or pop in the scrappers (if its still there! Long time since i've been to that side of town).

Thanks Western. It doesn't seem like 330mm lift would be enough though. Thats only a foot? The 3 tonne ones go up to 450mm ish. Whats the standard bottle jacks spec for lift height? I get the feeling i'll pump it up and it won't even get to the underneath.

Whats the correct lift height for my defender. The ones i've seen only go up to 330mm. Is that enough. A linky to one with a couple of axle stands for under £50 would be nice so i can see what i need to order. Is a bottle jack better?

I've just posted my letter to the DVLA with the photo of the VIN so my 110 CSW can be put corrected to 2950Kg as per the plate and the body type changed to estate as per the VIN number and the M designation (not A for utility etc.) Will let uyou know how it goes. As Reb mentioned in the other thread its better to be legal and correct than have an incorrect V5C. I've no doubt that there is some law that says its our responsabilty to make sure its correct and id rather be "pulled" knowing my documents match my vehicle exaclty.

contact some of the previous buyers via the guys review page. Find some that have purchased it and send em an ebay message.

I was being a bit flippant . I might just swap the windows as you say for either solid (secuirty filmed) glass or aluminium. I'm more inclined to use security film on single piece glass with a external homemade grill. Not made my mind up yet. But a set of 88 sides did seem appealing but i don;t want to mess up the V5C and i want it to look like a CSW for all the reasons we've highlighted and reb has mentioned. So glass is the prefered route. Back on topic 200th post..golly.

LEZ started (for non-cars) 4th Feb 2008. http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/lez/ If your F350 is classed as a car your OK if not you're nackered. It could be £100(or is it £125?) Not sure on how the Euro emissions affects you. It might sill be free for you at any point but worth a check on their checker. You're absolutely correct about the weight but its 2950Kg on the plate so nothing i can do. I don't think you can change your plate for a different GVW.

@plasticbadger Class 7 is £100 or more to go into LEZ if your not euro certified (this includes Heathrow to pick people up). The MOT is no issue and thats not the reason i would like to be correct of the V5C. My LR is off round the world eventually so i'd like everything 100%. The LEZ is just a bonus. Getting it officially as a car is another. Getting in class 4 is another. Getting cheaper tolls is another. Who's to say what will change in future. ££'s saved and less hassle in the long and short term. Whats right is right and at the moment its wrong. If i have a major road traffic i bet they'd find a way to not pay as the documents aren't correct and no doubt they're my responsabilty. I can't go wrong if they are correct.

i hope you enjoyed the info pack. Did it go into the little room for reading matter ? I've read on other forums that people are getting them changed so it must be a common thing now. Its strange how one stupid idea (LEZ) has potentiall caused a monumental administration cost in a department that doesn't earn any revenue from it. Combined with the new MOT rules that department must be mostly busy with Land Rovers. I've also read after your V5C comes back it only takes a few weeks for the LEZ system to be corrected thus meaning the 110 will be a car and exempt from LEZ. To be honest I'm more bothered about foreign customs and stuff like that than LEZ. Once i get it back i'll change the rear to van sides...LMAO....(it might happen)

Completely agree reb. Hopefully i get the quick change you have. As for purchase tax i would have thought that wouldn't apply to a real CSW. whats purchase tax anyhow? VAT?

I've called them and they've just said "get a letter off land rover if you want to change the body type". My answer to that was, the VIN says its an M = Station Wagon and if it were a Utility (as listed on the V5C) it would be an "A" in the VIN. She had no answer to that and repeated get a letter. They can't argue with the VIN or can they? I've put this in a letter and stated M = Station Wagon and A = Utility / VAN. Will let you all know.

Ok so i've just filled out my V5C with Revenue Weight 2950Kg as per the VIN plate and am also trying to amend the Body Type to "Estate" and not Light 4x4 Utility. Should be 20 to 30 days for this to be changed, if they change it ! I have not filled the number of seats section. This may be my undoing.....currently blank and i'm leaving it that way. Will let you know.

I'm sorry to hear that you've be hijacked. At least you get your money back. Its unlikely to affect you again and its a lot less hassle than suffering identity theft. Just make sure you change all your passwords if you use the common theme to them on sites (even this one). I do doubt what you say is possible though. The bank help staff just talk rubbish most of the time as most people wouldn't understand the real reason why. Theres something more to it than what you say. Plus i've not heard of your issue and would certainly have done. Logging keystrokes is certainly possible with a trojan and thus stealing a password. Doing what you explain is essentially a man in the middle attack and its not possible (not at all likely is more accurate). So its likely you weren't at the site you thought you were and were redirected to a Pharming site impersonating your bank and complete with SSL certificate that you didn't check (clicking the padlock icon and checking its a valid issued ssl certificate). You entred you details and they then logged into your account and emptied it. I bet when you logged in you didin't get in and then tried again on the legitimate site url. Anyhow. Your advice is good. People should be carefull. Might be worth while getting a better AV package and scanning your PC more often. My advice is ESet NOD or GData. GData is the better one in the latest tests. http://www.gdatasoftware.com/ I must point out although that AVG is excellent and would have almost certainly picked up a trojan. What it would not pick up is the redirection the the fake bank site. Only an Internet Security suite would do that. Depending on bank the green address bar in Firefox easily show your at the correct site by just one click. I have noted however that due to certificate issues alot of the major banks remain "blue" and thus not trusted as the legitimate site. They should sort this out. See the caps below. One is green a perfect site and the other is blue and so not perfect.

in more ways than one. If you're of a certain age you know what i mean. Two ways to come unstuck here and neither are pleasant. Check both regularly.

Quick thinking. I've had something similar except i managed to free the correct foot. Not sure I’d be a cool as you but you never know. The other week the accelerator peddle got stuck under the mat approaching the roundabout at the end of the road. It clutched with the left and lifted the accelerator with my right toe freeing it from the mat. Got out my Swiss army knife and rectified the mat in seconds and lobbed the piece in the back. Toyota should just issue Swiss army knifes.

In the UK we have a thing called a clutch so no issue. It happend to me the other week in the 110. Automatic and you're nearly screwed due to the electronics that prevent you switchin gof the engine and stuff mentioned here.

have either of you got raised suspension. Is it wheel on its own or wheel plus raised that does it. Do we know what the limit is? I'd be very interested to know what makes a car into an HGV. OK i found it and its under 1.3m at first axle. http://www.m6toll.co.uk/pricing/chart.pdf