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jad

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About jad

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    Leamington Spa/Bedfordshire

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  1. I could do! but at the moment its money I dont want to spend... When I take my TVR apart and galv the chassis that will probably be a sensible time to do that as well.
  2. Bowie 👍 I could zinga and paint the whole thing but there would always be a part of me that knows 🙈
  3. I do have some zinga. It's works pretty well but it looks quite different. Matt finish, not as smooth. Would probably look a bit odd! Bowie that sounds you haven't started a thread anywhere per chance?
  4. Well it took me this long to get around to modifying the side vent to fit. The sliders now being too short does annoy me since changing the outer wing skin but it had far too big a gap with the defender sides. Galv isn't the best thing to weld though... I really should get around to doing it though. Wonder if I can get them partially dipped to recoat the extra bit?....
  5. So this was on the mental "still to do list" 🙄 took me a little while...
  6. jad

    Leaf spring makes

    Steve did you get around to fitting your springs? Cheers
  7. jad

    Leaf spring makes

    Hmmm interesting
  8. jad

    Leaf spring makes

    Thanks everyone, I think I will look to stick with standard springs anyway. I am not looking for a lift from the parabolics and only need to replace the rear springs at the moment. I also wouldnt want to weld my galvanised chassis! Soren that solution does look very simple although none of them are overly complicated. Steve if you could point me in the direction of your thread when done that would be great. Cheers
  9. jad

    Leaf spring makes

    Thanks Steve. Would you mind taking some photos and letting me know your thoughts? Cheers Jad
  10. jad

    Leaf spring makes

    Thanks Yes mainly worried about the rear. The spring I need replacing is a rear one. I am not looking to change the fronts at the moment. I have too many other things to do at the moment on other cars and the house to look at designing an anti-wrap system at the moment and actually I am pretty happy with the ride/off roading ability. Wouldnt want to make it too easy and less fun! I only use it on road and for some green laning when time allows. Jad
  11. jad

    Leaf spring makes

    I need to replace at least 1 of the leaf springs on my 78' S111 109. It is bent and I am getting to the end of my tether with it vibrating against the chassis when going between throttle and overrun! I have a few questions. Firstly is it OK to replace just the 1 spring? At most would I be risking a wonky vehicle? I am looking for standard springs as opposed to parabolics as with ~250Hp I think I will just end up with a lot of spring wrap and bent springs. Are there any companies that are recognised as producing good quality springs? I am assuming it is best to avoid britpart and bearmach? A google search reveals perhaps some more specialised companies such as Jones-Springs, GB Springs. Does anyone have any good or bad experience of these companies? Or is there anyone else you would recommend? Thanks for your help. Jad
  12. Thank Fridge, will just buy some resistors 😊 Out of interest TL;DR?
  13. Looks like the easiest thing to do it treat it as non pwm as with petrol high impedance injectors as below. Please correct me if I am wrong! Injector Resistors However, instead of the flyback board, you may choose to use resistors in series with your injectors. Several people reported that resistors do NOT result in significantly longer opening times, or any other troublesome effects, so this is a good solution for many installs. To eliminate PWM altogether, use a 5 to 8 ohm resistor (with a 20 to 25 watt rating) in series with each injector. If you want to avoid using PWM with your low-impedance injectors, you can use ballast resistors in series with the injectors. You should use one resistor (20-25 Watts) in series with each injector, otherwise the injectors may not all draw the same current, and the failure modes become complicated and difficult to diagnose. As well, you would need a very large resistor to handle more injectors. For example, if you allowed 2 Amps through four 1.2 Ohm injectors wired in parallel (0.3 Ohms total) to one 7 Ohm resistor, the power dissipated would be: P = V * I = 12.5 Volts * 2 amps x 4 injectors = 100 Watts! If you use resistors that limit injector current to less than 2 amps, you can disable the PWM mode (by setting PWM% to 100%, and time threshold to 25.4msec) and treat the system as high-impedance. To limit the current to under 2 amps, you need: resistor ohms = (alternator voltage / 2.0 amps) - injector resistance For example: resistor ohms = (14.0 volts / 2.0 amps) - 1.2 ohms => resistor ohms = 7.0 - 1.2 = 5.8 ohms You can also use the calculator below. Enter your injector resistance in ohms, your hold current in amps, as well as your injector impedance in ohms, in the form below and press the "Compute resistor" button.
  14. There is soooo much information i do not know how people remember it all! I found the below. If you follow the injectors and fuel supply link it takes you here http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm which looks like a very helpful page if I could understand it 😂 To tune the PWM [pulse width modulation] values for your engine, you need to know what kind of injectors you have- low impedance or high-impedance. If you are running high-impedance injectors (greater than 10 Ohms), then set the PWM time to a number like 25.4, in essence you are disabling the PWM mode. This allows full voltage to the injectors throughout the pulse width. For low-impedance injectors (less than 3 Ohms), you need to limit the current to avoid overheating the injectors. To do this, there is a period of time that you apply full battery voltage [peak] current, then switch over to a lower current-averaged [hold] current, i.e. peak and hold. Alternatively, you can add resistors in series with the injectors. See the Injectors and Fuel Supply section of the MegaSquirt® manual for more details. To run low-impedance injectors with the PWM current limit mode, you need to set two parameters - the "PWM Current Limit %" and the "Time Threshold for PWM Mode" - both are on the “Constants†page. The current limit % is the percent duty cycle when the current limit is invoked. The time threshold is the amount of time from when the injector is first opened until the current limit is activated. High impedance injectors can run on 12 Volts without problems. Low-impedance injectors require some form of current limiting. MegaSquirt® has pulse width modulation to limit the current. You need to set the PWM parameters to match your injectors:
  15. That's interesting to hear! Thanks. I have been told the following by an LPG retailer. Does it sound correct or not? Wouldn't this mean it is not possible to control the LPG injectors with MS? "all LPG injectors need special driver - they are driven using pick and hold current driver - so unlike petrol injectors they cannot be opened by applying voltage to the connectors. The PWM 10kHz with current limiting is needed in order to not overheat the coils. There are some injectors with relatively high impedance like Matrix but still - the current needs to be controlled in order to not damage the plunger seasl and to protect the coils." Cheers jad
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