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About jad

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    Leamington Spa/Bedfordshire

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  1. Thanks mine is at least 20mm low at the front and back then. Bushes haven't had significant use they were put in so shouldn't be too bad so the other variable is the leaf spring conversion and spring sag. If someone could measure the depth of their axle from spring seat to bump stop that would be really useful. Cheers
  2. Shouldn't it be BGM then?
  3. Excuse my ignorance BGB? Thanks
  4. Hi guys, I am thinking about replacing the springs on my 109 for parabolics. I am looking at GB springs and there are a couple of options due to load rating. What I am trying to understand is if my truck is at a normal ride height on the front or if it is lower due to spring sag or the way I have converted the coil axles to leaf springs. The rear has a good distance between the bump stops and axle. The front looks closer than I would expect although the tyre to wheel arch looks normal to me... Could anyone with standard springs measure both the bump stop to axle distance and bump stop to the bottom of the spring mount/top of spring. Both of these measurements at the front of the axle as pictured. Mine is ~44mm and 175mm on the driver's side and ~48mm/180mm on the passenger side. So a little lop sided. Thanks Jad
  5. Hmmm that might be a one way trip. There were no screws so might just nicely break when taken apart.... My dad thinks "Probably an inductor (also called a choke) in series and a capacitor across the line which is a high frequency filter Providing the choke is wound with heavy enough cable it should be fine" I mean if a part fails then I'll definitely take a look inside!
  6. They work 😳 I mean not perfect... But significant improvement. If I open my door to ~45 degrees the radio starts to fuzz a bit so must be some Faraday cage effect going on. Will have to see how they are when I drive the car about... Thanks for your suggestions everyone!
  7. Well my emc's have arrived! Must be time to try them out....
  8. Thanks guys. I will see if I have time tomorrow to pop the headlights out and wrap them in foil see if that makes a difference. My dad also thought of the capacitor suggestion so will give that a go when I see him next. He has some capacitors we can try. I had an interesting conversation with the seller on eBay and they talked with the manufacturer. This was their reply. "Thanks for contacting us.We are so sorry to hear that .We checked the problem, it's the problem of interference current, you will need a EMC.In this case, how about we send a EMC for you from China? It will take 7-15 days to reach you.If you agree, we will contact the supplier for this part.Please advise." So I'm going to receive an "EMC" so will be interesting to give that a go 😂 Cheers Jad
  9. Firstly, I know!..... Buy cheap buy twice, you get what you pay for, probably won't pass MOT etc etc..... Well let's start off with the positives. A nice bright white light, flat beam, a good defined line , built in DRL and alternating indicator which definitely improves their visibility and only £50.... My feeling is that they should pass an MOT. Right the only downside I have found so far.... They are causing radio interference (white noise) when on dipped beam only. They do not cause issues when just the DRL is lit and they do not cause any issues when on full beam. Which for me is the interesting bit as this does not turn off the dipped beam it just lights an extra part of the light. So far I have tried 2 ferrite clips around the cabling from each unit, a capacitor at the alternator just because I had one lying around and earthing the shielding of the aerial cable. None of these has had an effect. If I disable the RH headlight then interference is much less as this is closest to the aerial (wing mounted). So I assume it is the cabling acting as an aerial. I also plan on trying an extra earth (jump lead) to make sure the earth on the wing is good and will try putting ferrite clips in other places. Apart from refitting the original headlights.... Has anyone got any ideas of things I could try to get rid of the interference problem? Cheers Jad
  10. Yeah. Think I'll put it to 45 degrees and see how it goes. Might get a new prop if it gets on my nerves...
  11. Because that's a lot of work and also impossible without lowering the vehicle quite a bit or the steering bar getting in the way of the leaf springs 😕
  12. 22.5 is similar to 45 degrees. Using an inclinometer on my phone I reckon there is about 14 degrees between pinions.
  13. Well 90 is worse than 45 but not as bad as in phase. Think I'll just go back to 45 in the knowledge that really I should have a double cardan... 🙄
  14. Update. phasing the propshaft 45 degrees has significantly improved the noise making it much quieter and less harsh... What are people's thoughts to trying phasing it 90 degrees? From the info I can't tell if that might improve things further or not... Guessing it couldn't hurt to try.. Cheers Jad
  15. I was looking at the attached. I am unsure what phasing my propshaft currently has.
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