jad

I still have the original oil cooler in place. My coolant sits between 90-95 exiting the engine and I think the oil sits around 85 degrees. I cant remember if that's before or after its been cooled.... Fairly sure I am running 10-30w.

But did you cast it?!?!?

It is possible to replace the oil filter casting completely. You can buy/make parts for this. I used an adapter that screwed onto where the oil filter would go retaining the water cooling parts. Couple of examples. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234749471799?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AJ-LbweVTqi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3n6k2g6WS4y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I used something like this (different thread size) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402154104603?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=63akh65fR-a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=3n6k2g6WS4y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

thats the knock sensor. You probably wont be using it....

Is that "cold"? Mine is connected straight to the 109 guage and works pretty well!

My adapter didn't cost a grand! but you know with inflation etc....

You would also then need to find somewhere to mount the clutch slave cylinder. I can send you my cad if its at all helpful. It was almost perfect.... 52.1mm though. I looked at the spacing from the face of the flywheel. 2 bolt holes didn't line up (internet borrowed dimensions.... Might have been for a different sump design.

looking back through I may have used standard bolts?

some photos..... and here is my dry bearing.... https://youtube.com/shorts/33Jcj7Ioo2Q

Well its been a very long time since I posted in here.... I still have it, no massive changes, going through some updating renewing parts etc. The following is a list of work I have completed over the past maybe year or so.... 3D printed a snorkel in ABS in about 16 parts and melted it together using acetone. Reprinted my speaker mounts in ABS, the previous PLA had warped in the hot weather. Changed the clutch release bearing as its been squeaking. Unfortunately only discovered LOF do an extreme heavy duty bearing after replacement.... 😕 Changed the front axle casing after finding out the mounts were about 9mm too far apart, also wanted to increase the castor angle to get rid of some remaining prop vibration. Its now on the limit of what it can be but is good for vibration. Changed the timing belt/waterpump. Cant say how glad I am that I did this. One of the bearings was as dry as the sahara and I also found the timing belt was not correctly tensioned 😳 So its always been a bit loose in my ownership.... Fortunately now corrected with a homemade washer in a washer.... I am also making a new android head unit for the car based on an SBC but that is work in progress. I need to do the pictures another time.... All of them appear to be in different places hiding somewhere! Jad

I don't appear to receive emails when I'm tagged 🤦I had someone turn out the inside to fit over the crank and turn down the outside to fit the ring gear. I didn't adjust the bolt holes even though they are very different sizes. It should be the clamping force holding it in place. It might have been better to dowel the holes and redrill to the 1uz pcs but I haven't had any problems. Can't remember what I did for the bolts but they definitely would have had to be longer... Jad

Morning, thanks for the suggestions. Not looking to diagnose or solve any issues. Was just quite surprised at how gloopy the diff was when it was removed. Given how thin ep90 is.... I don't do significant mileage just seemed like a good idea to do while the axle is already in many pieces!

Evening, I am changing my axle casing and have dissembled my old axle. The diff appears to be covered in a lot of one shot grease from the CV's. Any recommendations on how to clean it? The internet suggests brake or carb cleaner.... Or should I just not worry about it? I was planning on flushing with some old (but unused) ep90 after a few hundred miles. Thanks Jad

Yep sounds sensible! Got a couple of other jobs I'm lining up to do in one go so will be a little while before I do this. Least it's useable at the moment....

I'm not too bothered about the looks.... But don't particularly want to be taking the rad out of the car 10 times when I find out it hasn't worked! 🧐

Has anyone repaired their own radiator before? I have a very small coolant leak, circled below. I do not use the 200tdi style oil cooler. I can weld, so am hopeful I could solder a radiator.... Any experienced views? There is a chance that it is cracking all the way around the joint, although it might be a crack in the paint. Maybe.... Regards Jad

Almost sounds like it might be better to have a larger tank inside just in case LPG stations are few and far between. I thought Europe generally were a big LPG fan. Always found it interesting that you could buy LPG versions of cars in Europe but not here. Although there are some exceptions like the dacia duster...

Yeah without significantly modifying the the rear bulkhead and outrigger I am not going to be able to accommodate a reasonable size tank so think I am stuck with one inside! I think that I am running MS2... It's been quite a long time since I have played with it!

This definitely needs a good write up 😉

I looked into that previously and I think the main issue with using megasquirt to drive both is that most petrol injectors are low impedance and LPG injectors are high impedance or vice versa and if you get it wrong you can blow the ECU. I think you have to run an external control for the different impedance injectors or something. It looked a bit more hassle than it was worth but if anyone has any further experience that would be great!

Thanks Jon. Unfortunately for me I think a 110 has more space than a 109. Potentially more depth and then less in the way of outriggers. I have one outrigger on the drivers side that doesn't serve any function on mine. Maybe for the SWB fuel tank? A 240mm tank is pretty small. The smallest I have seen is 270mm. Think tinley only go to 300. Thanks for the offer but I think I would be buying a multipoint kit as I am running a lexus engine on megasquirt. I will have another look under it today but I think to get my range aim I need 75 total litres which I don't think I can cram under the car 😐 any pictures of yours would be appreciated. Thanks

There shouldn't be any issues in ferries and the are cheaper than the Chunnel. The nearest LPG station is less than half a mile from my house and it's still nearly half the price of petrol. At 17mpg a round trip to my parents the other day was half a tank of fuel. I plan to speak to my insurance. My vehicle isn't very standard at the moment and I only pay £165 so don't think it would change much.

I don't currently have a system and I am planning to do the installation myself. Do you have any pictures of a tank installation?

Evening everyone, hoping some people can give me some inspiration. I'm looking to install LPG on my 109. I wanted to put a couple of sill tanks in that would sit above the bottom of the chassis but am struggling to find appropriate size tanks. I'm looking to keep the original petrol tank as well so can't put a toroidal tank there. Can anyone share photos of their installs and also let me know the diameter, length and capacity of their tanks? Unless anyone can convince me otherwise then I think I'll be putting a large tank in the load bed although lengthways rather than across. Thanks in advance. Jad