jjay

I had simular problem to you after replacing the headgasket. replaced all the parts you have done,and the ecu and fuel pump. spend close to 1000 trying to fix it. still did not cure it. I was just about to get rid of mine when i thought i would just double check voltages on the ecu. it turned out to be the brand new 02 sensor i fitted giving a false reading! youll find that the input to the ecu from the 02 sensor is hovering about .9v to 1.1v. and it should be about .3v on average. fitted a top quality ngk 02 sensor and instant cure. Heres how to proove it..... just get your local garage to do an emissions check. bet its on about 7%. change the 02 sensor (get garage to do it they can be rusted in) and drive it for about 50 miles in one go getting it nice and warm to burn the fuel off out the cat convertor and take it back for another emissions test while its still hot. bet its on about 1.5% and will fall a lot more after a few hundred more miles. (last of the fuels burnt off) But you MUST get the oil changed again in the engine. all the time its been like this the engine has been bore washing (dumping petrol in the oil) and your oil will have had it... which i also found out the hard way. hope they used the multilayer head gasket kit, dont forget to do the thermostat mod and newer expansion tank (+optional oil ladder assy which is worth doing) or your headgasket will blow again soon!

its a new design header tank with a ratchet cap design that vents pressure at 15 psi, no low level warning device although it would have been a good ideal!

are you on about the modified thermostat as fitted to freelanders from 2001 onwards? if so theres a hose that is a replacement for the radiator hoses which contains a modified thermostat, a blanking plate with a dummy thermostat and sealing ring for the old thermostat housing, the modified new expansion tank and cap replacement, nuts and studs mod with the modified green inlet gasket for the inlet manifold. All the parts come to about £80 but is worth doing....

first things first, do you have a spark? crank it over and then take a plug out is it wet with fuel? can you hear the fuel pump kick in for a few secs when you turn ignition on? have you re-set the fuelcutoff switch... common problems are dizzy cap and rotor arm (which you have done) and coil.... just a few ideas.......

i finally managed to fix it.. ... the new lambda sensor i fitted was faulty! so fitted a good quality one from NGK and it cured it! why cant people make something new that actually works any more..... would have saved me a LOT of money. anyway can start to use my freelander again now! thanks to everyone for suggestions and help.

oh well.... will have to twiddle my thumbs till monday instead....

wow is the fuel pump gold plated or something!!! thats quite a lot of money! Well after reading your post and already having done the things as listed in the 'quote' part of your post, and having carried out continuity tests from all sensors back to the ecu, i have booked it in for a testbook scan next monday. as you say is starting to get a bit expensive now! and could prob spend another £500+ and still not fix it. In the mean time you have given me some good links for reading and should keep me busy till monday thankyou for your help so far and will let you know what happens next!!!

the reason i took it that that was the fuel pressure regulator is that when i visited my local landrover spares supplier and looked on his parts exploded diagram, thats what it was listed as "fuel pressure regulator", but after yourself and a few other people saying its a non return system i investigated further.... theres 2 fuel pipes going to the bulkhead from the tank, so followed these and one goes into the injection rail and the other goes to the purge canister, no return from the injector rail, so yep your right its a non return system so the only place the fuel can be regulated is in the tank! i.e. fuel pump.... so you just saved me a £52 mistake! phew! thanks! so would i possibly be looking at fuel pump?

from x reg (i think?) onwards it was re-designed with the pressure reg built into the fuel pump, but earlier ones have the regulator on the injection rail and is controlled by a vacuum pipe going to the inlet manifold.... a little flat'ish disc mounted on the left of the rail next to injector no1.....

going to try the last thing i havent replaced which is the fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail as suggested by fridgefreezer.... fingers crossed....(and yet another £52) that makes £832 so far trying to fix this problem along with the other £735 ive already spent, time to cry in my cornflakes! the ird had better not pack up next! lol

just got the freelander back after replacing the ecu and having it re-programmed...guess what..... STILL THE SAME!!!!! have now disconnected the vacuum pipe for the purge valve and blanked off the inlet pipe where it fits, that didnt cure it either.... am now gettin a bit p*ssed off with this vehicle

just spoke to a auto electrician and yes you do have to have it re-coded to the vehicle, the main control unit (ccu) talks to the engine ecu, and if the two codes dont match up then it wont start!. so its now booked in for tomorrow for reprogramming.... then i can get back to testing to see if the overfueling problems finally cured! or will have to look into fuel pressure regulators and fuel purge canister valves

right have just replaced the engine ecu with an identical unit, now it will start for about a second and then die and thats it!. The key fob still works fine for central locking etc, dash lights up as it should, done the throttle position sensor calibration. Just wont start? plug the old ecu in and fires up straight away....does it now need re-programming or something? ? ? ?

have just replaced the inlet air temp sensor and still over fueling, its looking like the ecu's the only thing i havent replaced yet so thats te next thing im going to change...off to the scrap yards!

found the location of the inlet air temp sensor!!! found it on number 4 cyl injector inlet branch and its green. so gonna replace that tomorrow and see what happens then.....but what a stupid place to put it right next to the cyl head, its not going to get a true reading when the engine (and thus inlet manifold) gets hot, its gonna heat up the sensor too!!! mmmm ah well will let you all know what happens