nickr

All sorted - wire back on and lights working as the should. So busy at the moment that this was looking like a distraction that i could really have done without.... so nice for a change to have a job that i thought was going to distract me for the day takes 20 mins 🙂 Right ...now on to centre exhaust silencer replacement ! Rgds Nick

Thanks Ralph. I've just had a bit of a result. About to take instruments out as you suggested and noticed on the steering column 1 wire looking a bit longer than the rest. Turns out it was a very lucky spot. The wire is disconnected from the main beam indicator stalk switch - colour is Blue/Red. I cant see up behind the back of the switch very well but managed to just touch it on what looks to be the terminal in question and dipped beam seems restored. Now i need to look at how to get it back on properly. Seem to recall to work on that left hand stalk (certainly to replace it) you need to take the steering wheel off, so want to avoid that if i can.

I could do with some assistance please. MOT on Monday 😞 My vehicle is an early ninety (Aug 1885 on the reg docs) I've been having problems with temperamental sidelights / interior illumination for some time which i suspected to be the main (stubby) light switch (PRC3430). I've replaced it and its fixed the problem - a nice positive feel to the switch where it was vague before. Tested all light in prep for MOT and all good - but i hadnt done the final fit of the switch and replaced steering shroud. I've come to do that this morning and thought i would just test again before putting back together but i have discovered i now have lost dipped beam. Sidelights all working fine, as are main beam when indicator / main beam stalk (PRC3875) are in either the temporary or latched position. Thoughts on troubleshooting please? I've searched and found some threads talking about a 'pink' unit behind the dash that can be bypassed / jumpered. Is that a voltage regulator or something to do with the rear foglight relay? The manual i have here seems to suggested there may be a supplementary circuit for 1986-91 vehicles. Mine of course is earlier. I had assumed the main lighting relay is ok if main beam is working. Is that a poor assumption? Many thanks Nick

Sorry for the delay replying and thanks for the ideas all. I think the Disco 200tdi / LT77 is making things tighter and cant really see that i could get to it from above. Thanks Ralph may consider the extended bleed circuit in future. I have managed to bleed it now. I persisted with trying to get access via the exhaust route by undoing the nuts on the manifold to down pipe - see photo. I had hoped to drop the down pipe down completely but couldn't get the manifold off the studs as proximity to bulkhead simply wont allow it - however it did give me enough movement in the exhaust near the slave to bleed - just but not ideal! Why is it that manifold studs always come out when you dont want them to - and in this case when it it would have been beneficial they wont!!? So result is clutch is fixed, but the ease of removing the exhaust sections is niggling me and will need sorting. Just now need to remember how i got the manifold off the studs before.... something is telling me i may have had to lift engine slight off the mounts - or was that doing the start motor!? 😞

Last week whilst towing my caravan i had sudden clutch failure as i was approaching the campsite entrance - could have been worse as it didnt happen on a really busy roundabout minutes before hand! Still ended up blocking the campsite entrance - but with the aid of a big tree and the winch managed to get the car and caravan to the side of the road, and recovery brought the ninety home. Roll forward to this weekend and i was pleased that it appears to be the lesser of many evils and a failed master cylinder. Nice and easy i thought! Pedal box out, master cylinder changed and adjusted. Now just a quick job to bleed the circuit. I had forgotten how inaccessible the bleed nipple is! I cant see any way of doing it with the exhaust / downpipe in place. Bit the bullet and removed transmission cross member and disconnected exhaust from front of middle silencer but its completely seized at the down pipe end. I've heated it up but still no movement and worried any more force is going to crack manifold. The ninety has a Disco 200tdi fitted and if i recall i used a Steve parker down pipe. Anyone got any clever tips for being able to undo the bleed nipple with exhaust in situ or ideas for removing the downpipe? - I'm pretty sure that from what i recall that if i can free it at the turbo outlet the down pipe wont drop down between chassis rail , engine and starter motor. Rgds Nick

I'm currently draining the diff down completely and will leave for a couple of days, and will then clean thoroughly and decrease and clean off with acetone before applying anything.

My Defender rear diff pan was looking rusty, but not leaking. I decided this afternoon that a little bit of preventative maintenance was required, so out with the wire brush to give some quick prep before painting. Yep you've guessed it it now leaking! Looks to be a small area / pin prick hole. I've not replaced a diff pan before but i'm guessing is not an half our job, and one that will be easier to do with the axle off the vehicle. In any event I'm not going to be in the position to do it of a couple of weeks. MOT due next week as well. Has anyone got any suggestion on how i could make a temporary repair and what to use? Would something like chemical metal do the job? Thanks Nick

OK not strictly a Land Rover question, but I suspect plenty on here have experience. I'm considering changing my 8x4 single axle utility trailer for a twin axle - probably ifor williams. Just wondered if anyone .had experience of moving them by hand. Obviously when loaded it is likely to be a non starter, but I'm wondering what they are like when empty? Is it possible to raise the jockey wheel sufficiently to raise the front axle wheels off the ground when moving by hand? Thanks Nick

I've got a feeling I may have partly answered my own question here. From further searches I believe the 4 bolt model is going to be metric thread. Bearing in mind I've done the 200tdi disco transplant the pump end is now metric - converting this was the fun and games i had a few months ago. I guess it makes sense to now have a metric box fitted?.... if i can do it relatively painlessly. Original question still stands though - are there any other major differences. eg why is one called lightweight the other heavyweight? I've seen the 3 bolt cover (my original) and 6 bolt described as 'oddball'. Is the 4 bolt far more common? Thanks Nick

My steering box has developed a bad leak so am replacing it. Looking at other discussions I decided to go direct to Adwest / Magal for a genuine replacement. They were very helpful, but I was delayed ordering it. When I finally did I discovered there was a 3 week lead time on a new box. The new box finally arrived today, so keen to get on with it I’ve cracked open the box to discover what I’ve been sent is what it the parts manual resembles the Adwest Lightweight box ( square 4 bolt cover) My original is the Adwest Heavyweight box (3 bolt cover) Can anyone tell me what the differences are? One of my main concerns is the union fittings sizes as I have a feeling my original might be an imperial size and I don’t want to alter these as I ran into enough problems when doing the disco 200tdi engine conversion. Nick

Doh!! Before anyone else replies - I've discovered what it is. Disconnected the piston from the arm. Its the arm mountings squeaking not the piston! Nick

I have a really loud irritating squeak (well at least for the neighbours in the dead of night!) from the piston on my wheel carrier. It didnt do it when new (as far as i can remember) and has had very little use. I'm confident that I did a good job of fitting it. I believe this is probably the most popular wheel carrier out there - so am assuming others may have the same problem. Question is how did you solve it? I've tried lithium grease so far. If its a common problem perhaps Mantec ought to put something on their FAQ page! Thanks Nick

Thanks. Whilst budget is a factor so is my time to rebuild at the moment. Perhaps I will give Adwest a call... and on that note does anyone have a contact number for the correct department. The Magal website doesnt give much in the way of contact infformation. Can anyone tell me what they paid for a new box going direct to them?

The power steering box on my 1985 ninety is now leaking quite a bit. I think its got worse since my 2.5na to 200tdi transplant – I’m assuming it might be that the new pump might be more effective and providing higher pressure but that could be co-incidence. The box is the Adwest type – parts manual says STC1037 but I think it maybe a typo and should be STC1137 The box is leaking from the lower shaft seal. Its dry everywhere else. I’ve done a very quick search on replacing the seals. One post said it was an absolute pig of a job and a waste of 2 days of their life. Another said they had replaced the seals with new Zeus seals and its been fine. The box is the original as far as I know so probably could do with replacing( a bit of play in it) fairly soon, but budget is a bit tight at the mo. Just like some replies from anyone that knows whats involved and how successful replacing the seals is likely to be. If i do end up getting a new box. Where do people recommend going – i’ve read that it might be as well to go direct to Adwest (Magal) Thanks Nick

Richard Brothers at Cardrew Ralph. Havent been to CED before, although I think my brother in-law uses them quite a bit.

Hmm... i take that back - looks like halfords have stopped supplying fuel hose from the reel. Told the sales guy that was disappointing. Anyway the stuff supplied to me from the diesel specialist was fine. I should have more faith!

Thanks both. In between me posting and reading your replies, I've put a caliper on the little metal pipes and they are o/d = 4mm. I then went to local diesel specialist and he has supplied me 3mm braided i/d which he reckons will fit. I wil try it but will then be ready to pop to halfords if it doesnt fit. I normally triy to avoid halford like the plague... but they do seem to come up trumps with Fuels hose. When I replaced the main fuel hoses they were way cheaper than local motor factors.

Does anyone happen to know the o/d i/d of the small braided hose used between the injectors. Mine are leaking - I gather its quite common. Thanks Nick

Still in a dilemma about which way to go with this. Went to see about a custom exhaust being made up. Spoke to a local supplier. Spent about 5 mins discussing it - most of which was me telling him the background to what i was doing. In all this time his feet did not move from on top of his desk. He didnt bother to tell me anything about the product or options but just quoted me about £350 - £400. More expensive than I was expecting but it was the attitude that put me off. Resigned to the fact that I might hava a little fabrication to do - especially if I dont by new brackets - some of which seem to be around £30. Still would prefer to go 200tdi route but could do with a couple of photos of the rear silencer moutings to see if its going to give me much hassle. Also could do with knowing how much of a gap there is between the silencer and the body floor as Ive got rear wiring looms exposed around there. How hot does rear silencer tend to get? Can anyone oblige? Thanks Nick

I used the Discovery flywheel housing. Originally had counter sunk bolts to fit but decided to Counterbore rather the Countersink and use Cap Screws in the end as i felt that the stress would be less of an issue with cap screws. Nick

I'm plumbing in the turbo hoses using the steve parker kit. Re the Turbo outlet 90 degree bend which is very close to the inner wing. Instructions say that it should be trimmed down which I've taken 3/4" off, but the hose is still looking awfully kinked. anyone got any tips on what they found to be the best way of connecting the turbo outlet, short of clocking the turbo. Eg how much pipe you cut off if using the Steve Paarker kit. Cutting at an angle etc? Thanks Nick

Having still not made up my mind which way to go, I'm toying with having a custom exhaust made up. I've been told that the powerflow network of dealerships are pretty reasonable. Has anyone had any experience? Thanks Nick

Yes if you could get a photo that would be good. Thanks Nick

Thanks for the replies. In a dilemma now so many options! Eightpot. If its a larger bore do you know if it will mate to the Steve Parker downpipe used for my conversion? Early90. Are the brackets on the rear section? (pn ESR360, ESR95, ESR2421). What do they fix to and how? I'm assuming the chassis. Thanks Nick

Hi Ralph... What about Camborne Radiators?... just around the corner from you. Looking at mine today as part of the conversion I'm thinking that I might get mine looked at before it goes in.