LS26

Good point - I'll do that... Do you know a source of suitable (ie cheap ;-) and resitant to petrol) tube? I guess that with returns and breathers etc I problably need about 15 metres? Roger

According to Wikipedia: The first fully controllable helicopter (as opposed to autogyro) was the Focke-Wulf Fw 61, demonstrated by Hanna Reitsch in 1936 in Berlin, Germany. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focke-Wulf_Fw_61 ) so it is likely that there were German military helicopters during WWII - especially given Hitler's love of 'wonder weapons'. On the tank front, my old man had some good words for several of the English tanks (Churchill - "slow but tough", Cromwell - with the govenors removed = "so fast nobody could hit it") but was in absolute awe of the later German ones. Having said that, he was always a fan of "light but fast" as being (in his opinion) safer than heavily armoured and slow, but then he would be since his favourite vehicle of the war was the Daimler Scout Car. If I remember rightly, the Scout Car had a preselector box and an additional rearward facing steering wheel (for use by the commander) and when 'bumped' (fired upon) could be reversing at speed within seconds - a feature that saved his life on several occasions - and hence is the cause of me being here to bore you with this Rog

Not needed to do this one (yet), but I have looked at the job and it appears to be just: Light cluster, fuel filler (if required), a line of screws accessed from the inside just under the window (tried mine and they appear to be NOT rusted in!) and various rivets and bolts wherever you find them... Doesn't look to be a difficult job BTW: If you are going to be welding in the area of the filler neck (like me) and are not removing the tank (unlike me) then you might want to check the condition of the various breather tubes - one of mine was split wide open and stinking of petrol... I guess replacing that might help the petrol consumption too eh? Rog

Ahh - if only there was a way that we batchelors could get together and each donate a few brownie points to our brothers in need My nephew has a 2A and a pregnant wife - he appears to be hanging on to both quite successfully at the moment, but I think it's quite a juggling act; and he keeps talking about a 'sensible estate' car. I guess one approach might be to convince the good lady that the Landie actually isn't worth anything (easy in my case), doesn't cost a lot (hmm, perhaps a little more difficult!) and is always there as backup to the sensible car (Imagine trying to get little Johnny to the hospital in the middle of a blizzard like we hade in 1972!)? Good luck and I hope to see some more amazing video from you one day - featuring your dream project! Rog. (My eventual aim is a non-bobbed pickup, but for now I'll just be happy to get it through an MoT by next spring...)

Phew! Where to start? Well - thanks for the reassuring info, but extra thanks for the link to the vid - it has everything... Great sound (why does everybody elses V8 sound better than mine?)... Tension (waiting for that side camera to get wiped-out) ... Humour (when it did) All served with helpings of mud! Must have taken ages to synchronise all the multiple image stuff... Very well done, a great video. Looks like quite a good RRC to me - what did you replace it with? Rog

I am always impressed by how much people will tackle on Land Rovers & Ranger Rovers - Well done for taking it on (in what looks like a domestic setting too) It sounds like it turned out fine. Any pics of the 'after'? Rog

Thanks for that. Very reassuring - I must admit I was getting a bit worried... I met a chap at the weekend who had a local blacksmith weld up his chasis (I didn't ask which bit) and he says that now if he opens the pasenger door he can't close it! Rog

Thanks for the reply - I happen to have a piece of 4x2 box that's the right length so I'll use that anyway.. Wish me luck ;-) Roger

30 years ago I traveled (by bus) on a similar looking road (mostly 3 metres wide but with passing places on the straighter bits) in the Himalayas, I think it went on like that for about 10 miles - it was so dangerous that the bus driver wouldn't proceed until everybody (including me) had been blessed by some kind of a holy man in a small temple by the roadside... Big sections were one way with the direction reversing at certain times. Imagine the fun there was when we met a truck coming the other way! Apparently there had been a landslide which had blocked the road so he had turned round. Goodness knows how! We walked past the landslide (frighteningly exposed even for us climbers) and caught the bus on the other side – even swapping tickets with the passengers coming the other way. Now for the science bit: The road I traveled was blasted into solid rock, and the only way to widen it would be to cut further into the (about 60 degree?) slope - so that for every metre length of road: If we assume it's 3m wide, the original blasting would have removed 9 cubic metres of rock (BTW this was thrown into the valley. I was told that building the road was a massive undertaking that took the army 2 years and all that rock tumbling down the slope really upset the people who live below...) If they widen it by another three metres - that’s an additional 27 cubic metres of rock per metre length of road.. Big job for had tools methinks… but then – the Pyramids were built that way so… I’ll get me coat Roger

Hi, Been trawling through the posts all night, but can't find one that deals with this (if there is one - could you direct me please?) I am soon going to replace the rear cross member - the one that runs between the goal posts - and my questions are as follows: What is the best way to support the body while I cut out the old one? Will the whole thing twang out of shape if I don't weld/bolt some bracketry on it? What I am thinking of is a piece of 4x2 tack-welded a couple of inches above the X-member from side to side, then this held with a couple of bits of 2" box to the chassis to stop the whole thing from sagging/twisting - or am I WAY over the top? Pics of a solution would be nice.... Cheers, Roger (Only 42 more perforations to weldpatch and THEN for that MoT ). Oh - BTW I am away in Scotland on a playday with my nephew and brother-in-law in their series LRs this weekend so I won't be checking this for until Sunday. Didn't want you thinking I am being ignorant if you reply :-)

On my RRC, the floor mounts for the rear seatbelts are bolted through the floor panel to the chassis via a couple of little rubber couplings,. Therefor IMHO the (corrugated) rear floor panel would not be structural ? Roger

Looks like mutant ninja turtle anime stuff to me - BRILL style! Even at 53 I'd look really kool wering that (not) ;-)

They are called "Powerbase" and are a sort of grey colour. Rog

I am very happy with my two (£9.99 each) from Homebase and I am going to get a third - then I'll have one for the grinder, one for the cutting disc and one for the wire brush... hmm, might need another multi-socket extension lead too

I have a £45 Ebay auto-darkening hemet and it's fine. As for the torch idea - I weld outside and often into the evening (it's a Rangie - theres a lot to do!) and I got a 5-LED headtorch off Ebay (£5) that comes with a magnet on the back that attaches to a bit of steel glued to the helmet. If I knock it, it just falls off. The reason for having it is not to see during the welding, but (since even when 'off' the shield is like wearing sunglasses) while positoning the tip before striking the ark. It works well for this. Also when spannering underneath it helps to support my ageing eyesight... Roger p.s. This is my first time at this sort of thing so - be gentle