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About digiboy

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  1. More info! I assume it's an auto box and it's the HTC warning on on on the LCD it's flashing F4?
  2. I changed the bush on my TD4. Not that difficult, makes a huge difference. Muddy Mods do them.
  3. I have Osram Night breaker laser +150. Best I've had so far.
  4. Mine do the same - I'm assuming it's dirt in the stalk/switch. I've had that all off before on the last one to change the horn ribbon contact, pain in the arse, so I was leaving it. I do keep flicking it off and on in the hope it will clean it up!
  5. I thought all Landrover bumpers were meant to be mud coloured? I can send you some mud if you don't have any where you are. ;-)
  6. Yes I had the UJ bearings done at the same time. With my support bearings the rubbers had split all the way round, easy to spot. Just rattle the prop back and forward. I got a garage to do the job with parts I supplied. £95. I was told the old ones are b*****r to get off.
  7. No with mine - you dipped the clutch and the noise stopped. Sounded at it's worst going around a roundabout at 20-30mph. I've done my bearings twice - used crappy Bearmach ones 18months ago and they only lasted 12,000 miles. Got landy ones now £70 each.
  8. I had a similar fault. Propshaft support bearings were my problem. Use Landrover or GKN ones as the aftermarket ones are rubbish.
  9. Just update everyone about this problem: As per advice above from K88 MUD I had a close inspection of the rear subframe and chassis - I did this by dropping the subframe a couple of inches off the body. I also stripped out the back and took out the knock out panels to enable viewing of the top mounts of the bolts. Surprisingly I have no rust, cracks or signs of decay in any of these things, I even sat in the back with my finger on the top of the chassis bolt and got my wife to drive around until I was sure the click was coming from higher up on the bodywork. So I stripped out the side panel and had a good poke around there and found that there appeared to be a bit of movement on one of the bolts holding the topmount of the suspension strut. So I tried to tighten it up and found it has a stripped thread. If you take the nut off the thread is all chewed up at the bottom where it has been chaffing the bodywork. What is strange is one of the first things I tried was jumping about on the back of the wagon to try to get it to make the noise - but it only did it when going at slowish speeds or when turning. Incidentally - when removing all the bolts that go through the subframe into the chassis it is clear that NONE of the nuts in the top of the chassis are welded onto the plates - they are meant to be captive with a bit of play to allow the very long bolt to align with them. So I don't see how just welding this nut onto the plate in the chasis would make any difference what-so-ever, as is advised on another forum.
  10. Cheers! I'll give that a go when I get back home. Thanks.
  11. Thanks for the pics - very helpful. Can you tell me which bolt that was? Or do you have a wider shot to locate where you cut? Cheers.
  12. I have a 2002 TD4 commercial. It has been making a clicking noise from the rear offside for a while now and is getting worse. I've checked everything including the springs and all the bushes. So I tried undoing the 2 mounting bolts that hold the rear sub frame on. I didn't undo them fully as it was clear that when I wiggled them about by hand whatever holds them at the top is loose. I understand from other posts on another forum that there is a captive nut under the floor of the vehicle that snaps off? I'd like to get it fixed as otherwise the van is in good nick. My local garage are totally ignorant of the workings of a Landy and looked at me as if I was an idiot when I asked for a price on cutting sections of the floor out to investigate. Can anyone recommend a garage around Exeter or is there any member near that can do it for me for payment. I'm just after someone that knows Freelanders and the problem.
  13. Yes - sounds like typical prop shaft bearings. I did mine 14 months ago and replaced the VCU at the same time for a GKN one. Stupidly I used cheap Bearmach Chinese bearings at £18 each. These perished in 12 months and have just had to replace again as they were vibrating and knocking around corners. I'd get the GKN ones or Landrover. Also look at the diff mounts for perishing of rubber. Doing the whole lot with decent kit ain't cheap - but it will feel like a different vehicle after!
  14. You might find it difficult to get the IRD oil in less than industrial quantities! Best to take a 2liter container down to you local Landrover dealer. Mine fills one for £12. The other two grades you can get in any motor factors.
  15. Yep - join the wonderful world of the Landrover dealerships! I needed both key and remote. This involved waiting 2 weeks for them to come in then make an appointment to get them coded. They do have to plug in a device to the wagon apparently. So hence the ridiculous £40 fee for that. I turned up at 10am at Matford Landrover Exeter - I waited until 11am before complaining that I was still waiting. At 11:30 a bloke came and handed me a £170 bill and guess what? No remote - just a key. He apologised and said he hadn't been told to chip a remote and that would take a further 30mins AND I would have to pay!!! After going ape **** and asking for a loan vehicle the guy did it in 3mins for no charge. However I find their parts Dept very helpful and for some things as cheap as the cheapie parts. But never will I step into that showroom again!
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