digiboy

Left Hand Side! See the photo.

I have the same problem with my 2005 TD4 auto. Flashing F4 on the display is a generic error. I bet it happens after a short run and you stop and restart it? I also bet if you start it in N it won't do it and if you flip the connector off the LHS from that controls the Sport mode it will never do it! I've tried a lot of things including a diagnostic test. I've: Replaced the whole gear selector, replaced the gearbox ECU, replaced the Inhibitor switch, done voltage and continuity checks on the two barrel connectors (they are not damaged or corroded), done continuity checks on the wiring to the Sport mode connector. Basically, the ECU things Sport mode is engaged and you are trying to engage hill descent. So it throws up the error light. It does not go into limp mode and nothing else happens. All I do now is start it the Neutral. I've driven almost 10k miles like it. But I'd still like to know what the hell it is!!

More info! I assume it's an auto box and it's the HTC warning on on on the LCD it's flashing F4?

I changed the bush on my TD4. Not that difficult, makes a huge difference. Muddy Mods do them.

I have Osram Night breaker laser +150. Best I've had so far.

Mine do the same - I'm assuming it's dirt in the stalk/switch. I've had that all off before on the last one to change the horn ribbon contact, pain in the arse, so I was leaving it. I do keep flicking it off and on in the hope it will clean it up!

I thought all Landrover bumpers were meant to be mud coloured? I can send you some mud if you don't have any where you are. ;-)

Yes I had the UJ bearings done at the same time. With my support bearings the rubbers had split all the way round, easy to spot. Just rattle the prop back and forward. I got a garage to do the job with parts I supplied. £95. I was told the old ones are b*****r to get off.

No with mine - you dipped the clutch and the noise stopped. Sounded at it's worst going around a roundabout at 20-30mph. I've done my bearings twice - used crappy Bearmach ones 18months ago and they only lasted 12,000 miles. Got landy ones now £70 each.

I had a similar fault. Propshaft support bearings were my problem. Use Landrover or GKN ones as the aftermarket ones are rubbish.

Just update everyone about this problem: As per advice above from K88 MUD I had a close inspection of the rear subframe and chassis - I did this by dropping the subframe a couple of inches off the body. I also stripped out the back and took out the knock out panels to enable viewing of the top mounts of the bolts. Surprisingly I have no rust, cracks or signs of decay in any of these things, I even sat in the back with my finger on the top of the chassis bolt and got my wife to drive around until I was sure the click was coming from higher up on the bodywork. So I stripped out the side panel and had a good poke around there and found that there appeared to be a bit of movement on one of the bolts holding the topmount of the suspension strut. So I tried to tighten it up and found it has a stripped thread. If you take the nut off the thread is all chewed up at the bottom where it has been chaffing the bodywork. What is strange is one of the first things I tried was jumping about on the back of the wagon to try to get it to make the noise - but it only did it when going at slowish speeds or when turning. Incidentally - when removing all the bolts that go through the subframe into the chassis it is clear that NONE of the nuts in the top of the chassis are welded onto the plates - they are meant to be captive with a bit of play to allow the very long bolt to align with them. So I don't see how just welding this nut onto the plate in the chasis would make any difference what-so-ever, as is advised on another forum.

Cheers! I'll give that a go when I get back home. Thanks.

Thanks for the pics - very helpful. Can you tell me which bolt that was? Or do you have a wider shot to locate where you cut? Cheers.

I have a 2002 TD4 commercial. It has been making a clicking noise from the rear offside for a while now and is getting worse. I've checked everything including the springs and all the bushes. So I tried undoing the 2 mounting bolts that hold the rear sub frame on. I didn't undo them fully as it was clear that when I wiggled them about by hand whatever holds them at the top is loose. I understand from other posts on another forum that there is a captive nut under the floor of the vehicle that snaps off? I'd like to get it fixed as otherwise the van is in good nick. My local garage are totally ignorant of the workings of a Landy and looked at me as if I was an idiot when I asked for a price on cutting sections of the floor out to investigate. Can anyone recommend a garage around Exeter or is there any member near that can do it for me for payment. I'm just after someone that knows Freelanders and the problem.

Yes - sounds like typical prop shaft bearings. I did mine 14 months ago and replaced the VCU at the same time for a GKN one. Stupidly I used cheap Bearmach Chinese bearings at £18 each. These perished in 12 months and have just had to replace again as they were vibrating and knocking around corners. I'd get the GKN ones or Landrover. Also look at the diff mounts for perishing of rubber. Doing the whole lot with decent kit ain't cheap - but it will feel like a different vehicle after!

You might find it difficult to get the IRD oil in less than industrial quantities! Best to take a 2liter container down to you local Landrover dealer. Mine fills one for £12. The other two grades you can get in any motor factors.

Yep - join the wonderful world of the Landrover dealerships! I needed both key and remote. This involved waiting 2 weeks for them to come in then make an appointment to get them coded. They do have to plug in a device to the wagon apparently. So hence the ridiculous £40 fee for that. I turned up at 10am at Matford Landrover Exeter - I waited until 11am before complaining that I was still waiting. At 11:30 a bloke came and handed me a £170 bill and guess what? No remote - just a key. He apologised and said he hadn't been told to chip a remote and that would take a further 30mins AND I would have to pay!!! After going ape **** and asking for a loan vehicle the guy did it in 3mins for no charge. However I find their parts Dept very helpful and for some things as cheap as the cheapie parts. But never will I step into that showroom again!

What engine and model is it? I had a problem with the 'o' ring in the thermostat housing on my TD4 - it would blow out the contents of the header when hot - often stopping and not doing it for a while. It drips down on the pan and evaporates. Try putting your hand down under the black housing to see if its moist. There also was a thread recently on coolant loss - manifold 'o' rings I seem to remember - might be worth finding that.

My experience of cooler boxes is this: Start off with everything as cold as you can get it. Fill with as many freezer blocks as you can get - they are cheap. Run the box from 12v while you are moving. Run it for an hour off a Powerpack after getting stuff out - that should compensate for the warm air entering. DON'T open it more than you have to. They aren't replacement fridges - if you want something to cool stuff that is warm when you put it in - get a 3 way fridge. If you want to keep cold things cool for long periods cheaply get a coolerbox. There is no cheap way around the problem! Well there would be if we could buy ice like you can get in every garage and store in the states! I did think about the 3 way coolerbox option: http://www.jacksons-camping.co.uk/cool/portable.htm Or similar. Hope this is helpful. Phil.

I think this is the bigger one I considered from Towsure: http://www.towsure.com/product/12240V_Power_Station_with_JumpStart_and_Inverter But as I didn't need the jumpstart facility I went for the cheap smaller option to run a laptop/charge camera batteries, from Maplins, don't think that would run a cooler for long though. Halfords do one I see as well: http://reviews.halfords.com/4028/966952/reviews.htm FYI I went to Halfords recently and they had a dual fuel cooler box - gaz and 12v looked nifty! Phil.

You could always get one of those power packs. Some have jump start cables, mine has a small invertor. I can charge batteries power pumps and other stuff from it. I got it from Maplins a couple of years ago for £40. I seem remember they did a big one as well. That way you have the option of taking it out and charging from the mains as well as via the cigarette socket when running. I'm sure there will be other makes. Have you tried Towsure online catalogue?

Ah - it was you I took 10mins to overtake!! Quite a difference with a light right foot eh? ;-)

Hi Rayzer, Yeh - I am! I do have a drive but it's some 30 degrees! FYI - I have contacted DIFFLOCK, which are a company some 10 miles from me in Exeter and are also trading as: http://www.oecinternational.com/ Although they do not list the FEMCO Drainplug for Freelander 1 TD4 on the website, Justin from the company has agreed to give me 40% discount, as Litch indicated, on the correct plug and hose. That is just a bit cheaper than direct from FEMCO, DRAINPLUG. I'm really surprised that such a good product is limited to a couple of suppliers in the UK - WHY? It's just basically a plumbing fitting with a couple of 'O' rings in - BUT it is a brilliant idea and deserves to be marketed better. It should be available - even from the existing distributers - in general motorfactors, priced in a more realistic manner so more people use it, the distributors would make the same profit - and more IMHO for doing that. Jeeze there goes my 40% discount, but I run a business myself - and if that was my product I would do that ... and retire! Still - I've bought it so I won't have to take that f*****g sump guard (that isn't) off again! ;-) If anyone wants to buy from oecinternational.com then just use FEMCO as a DISCOUNT CODE! Regards. Phil www.digitalcut.co.uk Might as well get my own business advertised as well as the other 3 above!

Re: the Femco Drainplug. Just had an email back from Geoff Agg of Femco UK, suppliers of the drainplug system. He has kindly offered to deal direct to me and can do the kit for £41 delivered as opposed to £55 off the Difflock site. That is quite some mark-up as I suspect they will get at least 30% bulk discount when they buy - by my reckoning they are marking them up by at least 60%. Rather deal direct with Femco if they can't put a decent price on the Difflock website. I intend to cut a flap in the sump guard, put a plate around it so I can drop it with 4 self tappers, then I'll have a hand sized hole to reach the new sump plug. So solving my laying at the side of the road trying to do an oil change! Mind you moving house and getting a place with a garage would be better!

Hey Litch, was there a discount code on the Difflock email? Jeeze - they ain't cheap on that website are they? Luckily my local motor factors do Millar oils, always used that at £30 for 5litres I seem to remember. I also change the IRD oil every other oil change. I get that by taking a 2.5 litre can down to the LR dealers and getting the correct stuff.