Troll Hunter

Thanks, Hurbie. It’s no problem because every bulb has a tail from the two connection rails. It just requires a terminal to be fitted to each tail and, for example, to each wire to the sender. I’m proceeding that way. Mike

If that’s the case it seems that I could connect each warning bulb to the appropriate circuit and it’ll all work. Am I right? Mike

I’ve just discovered that I don’t have one of these, but I do remember seeing one when I totally removed my electrical system. It seems to have grown legs. What does AEU2721 do? Can the warning lights work without this pc? Is there a work around? Any info will be very much appreciated. Mike

Many thanks for the details. I’m sure that I can find something very similar over here, and I don’t expect hi-fi in my 110 300Tdi! I’ll probably be using the screen mainly for displaying maps for off-roading, and of course for reversing. Mike

Sigi_H, I envy your arduino prowess! I’m just about completing a full rewire of my 1991 110CSW, without an arduino, but following many of your philosophies. I’v got twin batteries, one dedicated solely to the starter, and all other loads supported by the other one. In an attempt to minimise switch burn out every circuit that draws more than 4 amps I’ve routed through a fused relay, which means quite a lot of relays when I’ve added driving, front fog lights and work lights all around, plus various 20 amp utility outlets. I’ve also included a dedicated earth from each consumer going back to an earth busbar. I have five of these in total, all going back to the battery negatives. I’m trying to avoid poor earth connections that rely on earthing through body work of chassis connections which always seem to be plagued with rust induced poor connectivity. I’ve also added front and rear Anderson sockets, fed through lengths of welding cable, to enable connecting jump leads to another vehicle. These also come from and return to the accessory battery, not the starter battery. Your proposed use of an arduino and associated bus sounds very good and should simplify the cabling tremendously. I wish I had the knowledge and skill sets necessary. I’d still recommend fuses in the power supply to each user since these will still be carrying currents able to generate major problems (short circuit fires!). Mike

As above. I’m using fibre glass matting in places on the back of my headlining panels to stiffen them, particularly at the edges. Mike

Many thanks for the thought, but you are right, postage and import duties would far outweigh the purchase cost of a similar unit over here. Glad that you’ve got a suitable unit and I look forward to you posting details. Mike

Sorry, ThreePointFive. Just re-read your post and seen the link to ebay. Mike

Yes, that looks good. Could you provide a purchase link, please? Mike

I’ve removed my crankshaft mounted fan, and I’ve got my two previous A/C condenser fans re-allocated to cooling duty. One fan is dedicated to the intercooler (300Tdi), ducted separately, and runs full time when the ignition is on. This helps when speed is slow but the engine might be working hard. The other fan is on a 2-stage thermostat and starts when the radiator feed exceeds 82 Deg F. As coolant temperature rises there is a large diameter electric fan, using the original ducting, that kicks in 88 Deg F. This also initiates a buzzer and dash warning light to warn that the coolant temperature is rising. I’ve also got a low coolant level detector in the header tank which is also connected to a warning bulb and the buzzer. I’m intending to get a coolant temperature indicator which shows actual temperature in degrees to replace the standard LR temperature indicator. Mike

Glad you’re on the mend. Sepsis is a killer. I lost my younger brother to it seven years ago, so congratulations on beating it. Mike

Who, me??? No, you must mean that tomcat guy. I’m not that generous! Mike

It’s still a great film, very entertaining. I’m almost tempted to enter a bid. The price is less than GBP10,000 and a 20’ container from UK to Canada is about US$2500, depending on the destination port. Fantasies, I know, but we can all daydream!🎅🎅 Mike

Mine is from the film Trollhunter, "a 2010 Norwegian dark fantasy film", to quote Wiki, in which the hunters used a white 110, similar to mine. My wife is Swedish, close, and my logo is a Troll, but nothing to do with computer trolls.

Many thanks for explaining what I’m missing - Facebook! I don’t think I’m missing anything!😀 Mike

I don't understand how you can make that assessment. Can you please help me. It appears that there are only two photos and I can’t see any of the suspension. Yes, I can see that the wheels have 5 studs, but where can you see suspension mounts and the cross member? I’m not trying to be a smart-ass, but please tell me what I’m missing. Mike

A good suggestion, thank you, fmmv. I’ve already designed the circuit and I’ve identified that there are two pairs of contacts that make contact when the switch is ON, and no contacts when the switch is OFF. This means that I can use it as a double throw switch with one pair connecting the battery positive supply to the flasher unit and the other pair supplying the flasher output to the four sets of indicators. All I need is four diodes, which I have. I’ll let you know when it’s all working. Mike

Thank you for that link, fmmv. It certainly looks as if both the switches are toast. I’ll perhaps open the old one and see what’s happening in there. It’s not worth returning the new one from here the shipping would be more than any refund. Mike

When I worked in Kuwait, where I bought my 110, I bought a whole pile of bits that were quite heavy, probably about 100kg, and had them shipped out on a pallet by sea. It was reasonably cheap as I remember. This might be an option if you are not in a hurry. Mike

My indicators are all working correctly but there's nothing when I switch the hazard switch on. I have confirmed wiring continuity on all wires in the system. I suspected that I have a faulty hazard switch. With the switch removed, using my multi-test meter to identify internal connections between the switch pins I got the following results. Switch in OFF position: no internal contact between any two pins. Switch in ON position: the only internal contact was between pins 5 and 6. Looking at the back of the switch: I bought a new switch. It came in a blue bag😞! It has exactly the same contact pattern as my old switch. So: a) is my original switch, and the new one, faulty? b) If it is faulty, what internal pin connections should there be in both the ON and OFF positions? c) If the switch is not faulty where do I go from here? Many thanks for any info and suggestions that I receive. Mike

You’ve obviously got the measure of it!

If you can partly assemble it and then get a plastic bag of cardice into the cylinder that should help to keep it colder. Any condensation can be removed later by WD40, brake cleaner or acetone. M ike

Many thanks for the contrasting opinions.🤔 I don’t think I’ll be investing, but I could change my mind! Mike

I’m not wishing to hijack this thread, but I’ve not come across isolators mentioned in the Defender sub-forum previously. From the above it appears that they can be fitted to standard Defenders, but are they effective in reducing noise transmitted into the cabin? Mike

It's hardly worn in yet! You obviously haven't been wearing it for any serious work. There are no angle grinder spark holes or welding burns, and it's hardly even soiled. You just don't appreciate good clothes! Or has it "shrunk" and no longer fits you? Mike