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Everything posted by Troll Hunter
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I've started this thread in case members who had read the previous thread on my front prop shaft don't read the update. This is a new, but related, question. I trust this is acceptable, but if not, Mods, please move as appropriate. I separated the two sections of the front prop shaft, with loving caresses from my mallet, and found that the male splines seem to have a ferrous metallic laminate - attracted to a magnet - on the outer surface, which is delaminating from the parent metal. If I could upload a photo I would show you . "Attach Files" doesn't seem to be working. Is it usual to have this surface layer, which seems to be several thou thick, on the splines, and if so, am I looking at future problems because it is delaminating? Any views on the delaminating, or the photo upload problem, will be very much appreciated. Mike
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Front prop shaft - do the two parts come apart?
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Thanks, all, for your info, especially to Peaklander, 'cos I'm sure I would have missed this offset in my enthusiasm to lovingly caress the beast with my mallet! My grease nipple is also right at the end of the female splines, so the grease comes out the slider very quickly. What are your views on using an angle grinder to cut a one revolution spiral groove, say 1/16" deep, around the male splines from the grease nipple to the far end of the splines, to assist the distribution of grease both down the length of the splines and fully around the circumference? Would this significantly weaken the shaft? Mike -
Hi, all, As the title, really. I know the slip joint should be reasonably free, but while replacing a UJ I found that the slip joint is virtually seized, despite regular greasing via the grease nipple. There has not been a grommet on the slip joint, part number 276484, but there is a very short cover that appears to be intended to prevent mud, etc, entering the end of the slip joint. It appears that the two parts should separate to allow fitment of the grommet. Please advise. Many thanks, in advance, for your thoughts. Mike
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300Tdi torque settings - what do the degrees values mean?
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in International Forum
Rich, you're dead right. It is a misprint, and it should be 5Nm + 50o . Western, thanks for referring me to the text in the manual, where it does show the correct values. I had only been looking at the table of torque values, since in my other LR WSM no torque values are given in the text sections. So, on with the job! Mike -
300Tdi torque settings - what do the degrees values mean?
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in International Forum
I'm familiar with that type of torque specification, but in this case no initial torque value is given, so when should I start measuring degrees, and what does the 5o + 50o mean? Normally a torque value is given, followed by a single degree value of additional tightening to arrive at the final tension, not two degree values. So, back to the original question! Mike -
300Tdi low coolant level warning - mystery component
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in International Forum
I was actually thinking along the lines of fitting a spare horn in the cabin, powered through a relay. Mike -
Please, some more help needed, but this time only in understanding the LR Manual. I'm looking at the torque values in the Defender 1996 300Tdi Workshop Manual and I can manage the Nm values, but what about the values expressed in degrees, eg the cylinder head bolts, which are variously shown as 60o + 60o or 60o + 60o + 20o, and my current concern, the rocker shaft to pedestal bolts, which are shown as 5o + 50o? What do the two or three degree values mean, please? Please can somebody bring me into the 21st century? Mike
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300Tdi low coolant level warning - mystery component
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in International Forum
Many thanks, all, for your replies and the info. Yes, Pete3000, you do get a prize - my unending gratitude , which will be renewed and reinforced if this mod saves me from a costly rebuild. And thank you, Maverick, for finding your 2013 thread. To my embarrassment I found that I had actually contributed to that thread, though I have no recollection of having done so. Old age strikes again! Regarding your question, HoSS, as far as I know, it's a standard RR low level detector. I don't know what technology it uses, but the float only travels 10mm. between its upper and lower stops. Even using a stethoscope I can't hear any reed switch in the probe shaft operating. The float appears to be of hard plastic, and I can't detect any magnetic sensitivity in it, so I doubt if it activates a reed switch. In one of the many threads I read before posting there was a mention that it could rely upon conductance/conductivity/electrical properties(?) of the water, technology that is beyond me. Now to install the bits and see if they work. I have an LED I can use, but will have to buy a buzzer. This warning system is so critical that reliance on only an LED is overly optimistic. If I find anything that contradicts the info in the replies I’ll update this thread. Many thanks again. Mike -
At last, I am attempting to install a low coolant level warning device on my 300Tdi. Some time ago I acquired, and I can’t remember where from, a Water Level Monitor, model Aqua 20 A8-IS117, according to the label on it. At one time it used to be supplied by Partline Ltd., but they have not handled these since the mid-nineties. There are no instructions with it. There are 6 electrical connections on one end, but no indication what they are for. I seem to remember that it can be connected to the RR coolant level probe PRC7925. Yes, to my shame, it’s a “blue box” jobbie! Please can anybody advise me the duty of each connection, and if it can be used with PRC7925? Many thanks, in advance, for any information members can supply. Mike
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Yes, but I did say "at the nominally same road speed", so the engine is still doing about the same amount of work, but is at higher revolutions and hence more air is being passed through the engine. Same amount of fuel and more air should give a reduced EGT. It does on my 300Tdi. Mike
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I must disagree with Discomikey, post #4. When you change down a gear at high EGT, at the nominally same road speed, the increased engine speed means that more air is being fed to the cylinders. This increased air flow at the same fuel rate, must reduce the EGT. In fact, Discomikey agrees with this in his second paragraph: "......... (as a diesel is opposite to a petrol, I.e. running rich means hot as opposed to a petrol running hotter when lean)" Yes, change down to reduce/limit your EGT. Mike
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Thanks for the advice and experiences. I've now got a banjo fitting with a 4mm bayonet fitting to replace the existing plug at the rear of the manifold, so tomorrow I should connect the boost gauge, the wastegate and the FIP to this new location. This should counteract some of the pressure loss through my horribly deformed turbo discharge pipe. If I find the boost is above 16psig at the manifold then I'll go back to the original offtake at the turbo outlet. Mike
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Base and sides were lined with HD polythene sheet, all one piece, rebar in base and sides and plywood shuttering with cross bracing to prevent the formwork deforming. Concrete thickness was a minimum of 4", same as the garage floor, which was also strengthened with rebar. Base was poured one weekend and the sides a week later, when the main floor was poured. Yes, I know that it was a nit of overkill for a domestic garage, but I hope it is just about future proof. So far, no cracks and no leaks. Mike
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Old age creeps up on us, unannounced and hardly noticed, but once firmly established it doesn't half make itself known! Mike
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300Tdi - how do I know when No. 1 is at TDC?
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in International Forum
As I said, my engine is installed, so I can't access the flywheel, and I'm loathe to start opening the front timing belt chest. I'm hoping that somebody will confirm that there is an alternative method of determining TDC. Mike -
Sorry all, but I'm having a blonde, senile, or just plain stupid moment, and I haven't yet had a bevvy. Perhaps that's the problem. I was preparing to fit new valve oil seals on my installed engine and was about to remove the rocker shaft when this 'orrible thought came to me. Once the shaft is off, how do I know when each piston is at TDC? Should I remove the heater plugs so that I can get some idea through the vacant holes? Please can somebody not yet suffering from mental decay point me in the right direction. Please don't give me clues, I'd have to think about the answer. Just give it to me straight. Many thanks, in advance. Mike
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I dug a hole and poured a concrete pit. It is a nominal 40" deep, with a 1inch slope, and 42" wide. Inside I have an old office chair on castors so I can wheel myself from end to end. Sitting on the chair my head is just above garage floor level, so I'm safe from intoxicating fumes - no wine stored there. It's only 15ft long, but for my 110 I wish it was longer so that I had easy access at both ends. It is covered by 2" x 12" (true dimensions, not builders' merchant nominal sizes) fir planks to give a smooth floor level to the garage. It is important to have wide planks since all the weight of one wheel may be on a single plank when just parking in the garage but not using the pit. My other safety feature is that I have painted a broad white line on the garage floor parallel to the length of the pit on the driver's side, and spaced so that if I can just see the entire width of the line I know that the inside edge of the driver's side wheels are just safely on the concrete, and if the driver's side wheels are fully on the white line then the passenger's side wheels are just safely on the concrete. Sounds complicated, doesn't it, but you see what I mean - I hope. I couldn't put power or lights in the pit, although I wanted to, because the garage was a new build, under a building permit, and the Building Inspector was always sniffing around. I would have had to have explosion proof light fittings, etc. $$$$$$$$$$$+++! Mike
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Brilliant, Nigelw, thank you very much. I've never noticed that plug, and there's plenty of room between the manifold and the firewall to fit reducers. One puzzle, though,the LR Parts Manual calls this a drain plug! What situation could require a drain plug in the inlet manifold of a diesel engine? Mike
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My aluminium door skins are suffering corrosion (galvanic?) about 12 inches from the bottom, and need repair before they totally disintegrate. I've already renewed the steel frames and ensured insulation between the steel and aluminium. Replacement skins is not an option - I'm in Canada, and the freight would be prohibitive, so what are my options, please? I have a Lincoln MIG welder, but not the aluminium welding accessory, but could get it if necessary. (Repairing door skins is a good excuse to get a new toy tool. Repairing the door frames was my excuse to buy the welder!). All experiences, advice and suggestions will be gratefully received. Many thanks, in advance, for your thoughts. Mike
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As in the title. I've got a 300 Tdi Def and I want to measure the pressure at the manifold, so where do I connect? The options seem to be to drill the outlet pipe of the intercooler, or to drill somewhere on the manifold itself. I'm sure that this has already been done, so all experience, advice and suggestions will be gratefully received. Many thanks in advance. Mike
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Yes, please, post a photo. Mike
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I ran the cables up inside the trim on the A-post and out at the top of the door. The door fit is sufficiently poor on my LR that there was no danger of cable being pinched! Cable ties then secured it to the light bar. A word of warning about light bars that fit at the top of the windscreen - unless your bonnet is quite a dark colour there will be so much glare off it that you'll hardly see anything beyond it. I've now dumped my original light bar and have mounted my roof top lights about at the top of the sloping front section of roof, on a custom designed bar, and they are very usable there. The power supply now runs up inside the B-post trim and out through the door. Again, the fit is so poor that there is no pinch danger. Mike
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Many thanks, guys, for the advice and specially for the link to JCR Supplies. When I get home I'll be doing a thorough earth strap cleaning, a full strip and, hopefully, a rebuild, if required. Mike
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Defender Axle Oil Seals
Troll Hunter replied to Troll Hunter's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Apologies, all. My OP had a nice table in it, but when it was loaded it somehow lost its formatting resulting in the scrambled mess that appears above. Mike -
Hi, all, I'm currently having starter problems, amongst many others, it's dead! During it's extended death throes it intermittently gave the normal "flat battery" clicking, but the battery is fully charged and appears to be in good condition. I'm now restricted to parking on a hill so that I can bump start it, and I'm still a day's drive from home, and any attention will have to wait until then. I know that the first thing to check is the earth, but what are the repair options? Looking at the LR parts catalogue the starter is shown, but no details of any replaceable parts, eg brushes, or anything about the solenoid. Please, has anybody experience of overhauling the starter and/or the solenoid, and from where might the replacement parts be sourced? Many thanks, in advance, for any guidance. Mike