Troll Hunter

As the title says. I took my relay out a couple of years ago since it was totally fubard, and I can't remember where it was located! Does it go behind the lower left-hand dash (my 110 is a LHD) or behind the metal panel in the fuse box? Old age .......... Thanks for any help from someone who remembers! Mike

Oops! Sorry.

On a Fiat forum I found that Armval is still in business and supplying kits. See the second post. Armval is mentioned as supplier about two thirds down: http://www.fiatforum.com/coupe/49899-fitting-prv-boost-guage.html Mike

If I remember correctly, mine had foam backing which crumbled as I separated the vinyl from the rigid panel. I removed it all before I scrubbed the vinyl and reattached the vinyl without any backing. So no, you do not need the foam. Mike

My understanding of the 300 turbo is that the wastegate starts opening at about 10psi boost pressure and is fully open at 15 - 16 psi. Has anybody tried tuning the unit so that the wastegate starts to open at a higher pressure, but is still fully open at 15 - 16 psi? I don't want to raise the maximum boost pressure, but wondered if it is possible to achieve maximum boost at a lower engine speed, ie delay the start of opening the wastegate. What are your thoughts, please? Mike

I've had my head lining panels out and I stripped the vinyl covering off them. I cleaned - scrubbed - the linings, to great benefit, and re-attached them to the head lining panels with Evostick type adhesive. The closest colour match is Empire Grey, but mine might be a little lighter, possible due to fading. It's a 1991 headlining after all! Mike

Tanuki, From your suggestion above, I assume that the normal tappet guides, as supplied by Paddocks, are not phosphor-bronze. Who supplies these higher spec ones, please? Also, if I replace my valves and guides, should I also replace the valve seat inserts, and is this a job I can do myself, or would I need to go to an engineering shop. I have a fair selection of hand and power tools, but no press. Is there anything else I should consider replacing while I have the head off? Many thanks, Mike

I've been away for a few days, so haven't followed up any further, but will try to get some more info now I'm back home. Since there is some interest, let's keep it on the forum, at least for now. Mike

I've measured the spaces that people have used for auxiliary tanks on the RHS of the vehicle, and the maximum dims appear to be: Under the rear wheel boxes: about 43" at the base, and 33" at the top, measuring to the existing filler hose,10" deep to the top of the spring, and 12" wide. I've fitted an after-market folding rear seat and had to modify the front end of each rear wheel arch, hence the shorter top length. I think the standard wheel arch has a vertical front, but I did the mod so long ago that I can't remember. These dims give a theoretical volume of about 74 litres, so it should be quite achievable to get an extra 50 litres capacity. Lengthwise, beneath the two doors there is also a void that can be used. The dims for this are about 68" from the back of the front wheel mud flap mount, 25"wide, from the chassis rail to the inside of the body, and 10" deep, from the under-side of the floor pan to the front edge of the rear wheel arch. This would give about 167 litres of volume, if it was all available, but it isn't. There are a couple of outriggers, etc, and fabrication would be fairly complex. At least if it isn't pretty, it would still be out of sight! I haven't checked the dims on the LHS, but I assume they'd be virtually the same. If either of us go ahead with this, it could be a build thread on the relevant forum, but unless other members are interested in this vapour project, perhaps we should carry on via PMs. Mike

Before somebody calls me out, I was tidying up in the w'shop after completing the rear hub oil seal replacement, and the breeze must have turned the page of the WSM. Lo and behold, on Section 64, p10 there's a section: REAR HUBS, With inner and outer seals. From axle numbers ..... Isn't it nice to know that you've done something right after all? Mike

Thanks for the input. When I was in UK last year I bought spare seals on the basis of the Parts Manual, and only looked at the WSM yesterday in preparation for replacing a leaking seal. Today I've stripped the hub and found that it has got two seals, so I lucked out by buying on the basis of the Parts Manual. All went back as original, so it should be good now for a few more years, but when I'm in UK this summer I'll get some more spares - just in case! Many thanks, again, for all your input.. Mike.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. You've chosen the right one, as the technical knowledge and help available here is A W E S O M E!!! Where in Canada are you? I'm in the Kootenays. I've often toyed with the idea of fitting auxiliar tanks to my 110CSW, and I'd be happy to work with you to produce some designs/drawings. I can go and measure up my vehicle and post the dims later. I'm in the middle of replacing a rear wheel bearing and oil seal - see my post - so with the wheel off it shouldn't be too difficult to do. Mike

As the title says. The LR WSM (updated to include all Defender models up to 1993) shows just one oil seal, inboard of the inner bearing (Vol. 2, Section 64, p9, item 13), but the 1987 110 Parts Catalogue (Part No. RTC9932CE, dated August 1994) shows two oil seals, the first as in the WSM and the second one outboard of the outer bearing (p427, items 6 & 13, FRC8221 & FRC8222 respectively.) - Which is correct, if either? - Was there a change of design, which isn't mentioned in either of the publications? - Do I need to put two seals back in? Any clarification will be very much appreciated, and thanks, in advance to any and all who can help. Mike

Welcome to the Forum. I can confirm that the technical info here is second to none, and is freely given. Bbelieve me, I need all the help I can get since LR specialists are few and far between over here (BC, Canada). Mike

CwazyRabbit, many thanks for your most detailed replies and photos. I'm reconciled now to having to open up my timing case and examine the bits before ordering. There are too many "mix-n-match" options for getting it wrong without doing so, and I'll make darn good sure that I get the best combo of replacement parts, even if I do need a new crank pulley as well. Thank you for the lead on that, Cackshifter. I'm coming to UK this summer on holiday, so I guess I'll be traveling east with empty bags and west I'll be paying excess baggage for LR parts! Many thanks again, both. Mike

Also look here for wheel/rim/tyre info: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html On my 110 I have 265/75R16 and fitted wheel spacers to improve the abysmal turning circle. Admittedly, they did protrude a little beyond the original wheel arch eyebrows, but I've recently fitted a set of wider eyebrows, and I'm very pleased with the overall performance and looks. Mike

Look here for an offset calculator: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html Mike

Thanks for the info, Aragorn. It seems then that my engine is an early model, as far as Paddock's timing belt kits are concerned, but since I'm not getting any "fluff", it has had the appropriate modification made to prevent the timing belt wearing prematurely. So, back to the question of timing belt replacement. Does a modified "early" engine need the "early" or "later" timing belt kit? I don't know if the modification to "early" engines included changes to the belt tensioner and idler, which are the only differences between the two kits. Being in Canada, I don't want to order the wrong kit, since a return is out of the question due to shipping costs, and I certainly don't want to hedge my bets by ordering both kits. Mike

Thanks for all the info, but I still don't know which timing belt kit to order. As I said above, I don't get any fibrous particles adhering to a wire hook when wiggled inside the timing chain case, so perhaps the engine has been modded. Paddocks do two timing belt kits for the 300Tdi, described as for early and later models, with VA117353 being the last of the early models. If this is the VIN, can anybody tell me the appropriate, or approximate, engine number applicable, please, assuming that engine numbers are allocated serially and not randomly? Mike

Thanks, both, for your encouragement. Job done now. I ended up putting each spring in my bench vise, closing it right up, and binding it with very fine wire. There was no problem fitting it then 'cos I wasn't trying to compress the spring and turn the washer at the same time. I cut and removed the wire after completing the installation. Landy is now back on the road. Mike

Elbekko, I agree, but Murphy is here, running rampant, and assisted by his cousin Sod, and both law makers. They have the laws of logic totally confuscobulated! I eventually got what I wanted, after paying a pint or so of blood (US$32, including shipping and 10 days delivery), from New Jersey, and a "same dimensions" thingy from Vancouver. The New jersey one was the correct one, and the Vancouver offering was "almost near enough"!!! I didn't use it. I'm even more convinced that anything we need this side of the Atlantic we should order direct from UK, and pay the shipping (via Interparcel?), because it almost certainly will arrive sooner, and probably be cheaper overall. Mike

Last week, or so, I asked about the manufacturer's part number for the transfer box rear output shaft oil seal. I got one locally, at an exhorbitant price, and proceeded to fit it today. My question now is about the spring loaded pins and washers on the brake shoes. These are on each shoe, and the book says: 7. Grip washer with a pair of pliers, depress washer and turn through 90degrees. 8. Remove dished washer, complete with hold down spring and pin from both shoes. I managed to get them off, eventually, and a right PITA it was, but I cannot get them back on. I've spent over an hour, and several weeks worth of skin regrowth on knuckles, trying! Are these spring retainers really necessary? If so, I'm going to replace the pins with long bolts, washers and nuts, keeping the springs, of course. Your comments/recommendations will be most welcome, while I nurse my bleeding fingers. Mike

I was doing some rewiring today, and I found that I needed a grommet to protect the wires going through the bulkhead, but had run out of the size of grommet I needed. Not wanting to suspend the job half way through, I improvised. I got a bit of polythene tubing and drilled a hole through the bulkhead the diameter of the tubing. I then cut half an inch of tubing, forced it over the tapered end of a centre punch mounted vertically in my vice, and used my hot air gun to soften it. I then used a small ring spanner to press down on the heated, softened tubing, forcing the bottom to flare over the tapered centre punch, but also forcing the top, under the ring spanner to mushroom out. I "froze" the deformed tubing by immersing in cold water, and, Hey Presto, I had a grommet. I must admit, it needed a bit of encouragement to get one end through the hole, but after a total of 15 minutes, I had a couple of perfectly usable grommets, and I didn't need to go to the hardware store. I don't recommend this as a routine replacement for regular grommets, but it got me out of a hole. Mike

OK, I'm fed up with bouncy bouncy, so I must get some new rear shocks. What are people using for 110 CSW with HD rear springs, often fairly heavily loaded, usually used on tarmac with occasional off-road, but not any severe/competitive stuff? The dealers out here can supply a pair of Monroe OESpectrum Light Truck Shock Absorber, model no. 37249, at about GBP120, which is a bit pricey, and they don't seem able to get a cheaper equivalent, so I'm hoping to get something cheaper from UK, even including the freight. Inter-parcel, here I come! Anyway, many thanks, in advance, for giving me your experiences and recommendations. Mike

Many thanks for the replies. I was under the impression that the VIN included the engine number in the last eight digits. From memory, this was the case with my vehicle when it had its original V8 engine. Anyway, all is now clear, thanks. The good news is that I did MB's wiggle with a bit of hooked wire and it came out clean. No fluff at all, so perhaps the mod has been done, but I won't know until I open her up. If it hasn't been modded, I suppose I'll just have to fit a new cambelt anyway, and try to get the required mod kit and another new cambelt as soon as possible. Oh, the pleasures of having a Land Rover! Mike